Chrome ring of the faucet stuck

[affan habib]

Hello,

My bath tub faucet is dripping water. I was trying to replace the spring/seal. However, as I opened the top of the cover, I realized the chrome top/cover (see picture) is stuck. I cannot rotate it with hand. I even tried a branch without any luck. Any help on how to remove this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Snoonyb]

If you are just attempting to cure the drip, you'll likely need a cartridge removal tool, and there are a number of models available, from several sources.

However if you are intending to replace the faucet, then the chrome escutcheon will need to be removed, and you may need to cut it, to accomplish this.

 

[PJB12]

Affan,
From the photo, I'm pretty confident that the stem can be removed by using an adjustable wrench, sometimes called a Crescent Wrench, on the wrench-flats that are visible in the photo. Open the faucet part way between full-off and full-on while loosening the cap nut. Once the nut is removed, you may have to wiggle the stem back & forth while pulling up on it.

I don't see a chrome ring to remove. If you do have one, a strap wrench should help without scratching the chrome. A fabric one with violin bow rosin rubbed on it will work better than the rubber strap wrenches. In a pinch, sometimes an extension cord choked around it works like a strap wrench. (How I get the oil filter off of my truck)

The large chrome disc on the sink is the escutcheon. It's probably stuck by dried plumber's putty underneath. Gently prying around with a nylon spudge (or little, plastic windshield scraper or plastic putty knife) should break the putty's grip. Sometimes they lift off & sometimes they have to be unscrewed.

Paul

 

[affan habib]

Affan,
From the photo, I'm pretty confident that the stem can be removed by using an adjustable wrench, sometimes called a Crescent Wrench, on the wrench-flats that are visible in the photo. Open the faucet part way between full-off and full-on while loosening the cap nut. Once the nut is removed, you may have to wiggle the stem back & forth while pulling up on it.

I don't see a chrome ring to remove. If you do have one, a strap wrench should help without scratching the chrome. A fabric one with violin bow rosin rubbed on it will work better than the rubber strap wrenches. In a pinch, sometimes an extension cord choked around it works like a strap wrench. (How I get the oil filter off of my truck)

The large chrome disc on the sink is the escutcheon. It's probably stuck by dried plumber's putty underneath. Gently prying around with a nylon spudge (or little, plastic windshield scraper or plastic putty knife) should break the putty's grip. Sometimes they lift off & sometimes they have to be unscrewed.

Paul

Paul,

Thanks a lot. It is the escutcheon (thanks for labeling mybpic). I will try with a windshield scrapper or a putty knife). I am wondering if that can cause any damage to the tub while trying to pry. Should I try with plastic or metallic putty knife? Will the plastic one break?

Thanks again.

 

[PJB12]

Paul,

Thanks a lot. It is the escutcheon (thanks for labeling mybpic). I will try with a windshield scrapper or a putty knife). I am wondering if that can cause any damage to the tub while trying to pry. Should I try with plastic or metallic putty knife? Will the plastic one break?

Thanks again.

Absolutely a metal tool will damage the finish on the tub and the escutcheon.

Here are 2 ideas that I forgot to mention:
Gently heat the escutcheon with a hair dryer or even by pouring boiling water slowly over it. This may loosen the plumber's putty grip on the tub. Be careful with the hair dryer if the tub is not steel or cast iron.
Or:
If access is available from under the escutcheon, you can loosen the basin nut that holds the faucet in place & shove the faucet around a little to break the plumber's putty bond.

I really doubt, from the photo, that you have to remove the escutcheon. I think all you have to do to get the stem out is remove the nut as explained earlier.

Hoping For An Easy Repair!
Paul

 

[havasu]

Open the faucet part way between full-off and full-on while loosening the cap nut

Make sure you have your water turned completely off before making any repairs!

 

[affan habib]

Absolutely a metal tool will damage the finish on the tub and the escutcheon.

Here are 2 ideas that I forgot to mention:
Gently heat the escutcheon with a hair dryer or even by pouring boiling water slowly over it. This may loosen the plumber's putty grip on the tub. Be careful with the hair dryer if the tub is not steel or cast iron.
Or:
If access is available from under the escutcheon, you can loosen the basin nut that holds the faucet in place & shove the faucet around a little to break the plumber's putty bond.

I really doubt, from the photo, that you have to remove the escutcheon. I think all you have to do to get the stem out is remove the nut as explained earlier.

Hoping For An Easy Repair!
Paul

Paul,

Thanks. I am sending a clear close up pic. Do you still think I do not need to remove the escutcheon?

Thanks again.

 

[Fireguy5674]

Correct. Just take the nut off the top with a wrench and wiggle the white nylon part out. Under it you will find the rubber seal with a spring under it. You can then buy a kit with the stem, seal and spring included. I would change both sides while you are at it. They are not expensive and are usually pretty easy to change. I have replaced lots of them.

 

[PJB12]

Paul,

Thanks. I am sending a clear close up pic. Do you still think I do not need to remove the escutcheon?

Thanks again.

Removing the escutcheon won't help get the stem out for repair.

After removing the cap (bonnet) nut by turning the wrench flats anti-clockwise you will be able to get the stem out for rebuilding. (Picture with arrow is attached showing where to put your wrench)

NOTE- Your looks like you will be able to pull up on the stem to remove it. Some wiggling may be needed. BUT...
Some stems, like most hose bibbs, globe & gate valves, are unscrewed to remove (after the cap nut is removed). Yours does
not look like that type.

Paul

 

[affan habib]

Removing the escutcheon won't help get the stem out for repair.

After removing the cap (bonnet) nut by turning the wrench flats anti-clockwise you will be able to get the stem out for rebuilding. (Picture with arrow is attached showing where to put your wrench)

NOTE- Your looks like you will be able to pull up on the stem to remove it. Some wiggling may be needed. BUT...
Some stems, like most hose bibbs, globe & gate valves, are unscrewed to remove (after the cap nut is removed). Yours does
not look like that type.

Paul

Paul,

I just was able to get it done following your instruction. I did not remove the escutcheon. Just used the wrench to remove the xap and took the cartridge out to access the spring/seal. Water was still coming and it took me a long time to drain all water.

Thank you so much for your help. BTW, the tub water line doesn't have a valve. So I have to turn the main line off to work on the tub faucet. Do you think it's a good idea to add a valve on the copper water line to the faucet? Is itbpretry easy to do?

Thanks.

 

[PJB12]

Paul,

I just was able to get it done following your instruction. I did not remove the escutcheon. Just used the wrench to remove the xap and took the cartridge out to access the spring/seal. Water was still coming and it took me a long time to drain all water.

Thank you so much for your help. BTW, the tub water line doesn't have a valve. So I have to turn the main line off to work on the tub faucet. Do you think it's a good idea to add a valve on the copper water line to the faucet? Is itbpretry easy to do?

Thanks.

I'm glad to learn that your repair was a success!

You mentioned that water was still coming out after removing the stem. It might be because there is no local valve (shut off) leading to the tub faucet. Pipes higher up than that faucet will drain when you open the tub valve & the water will show up at the tub valve.


I think that your idea to add shut off valves ahead of the faucet is a very good plan. Should a faucet go bad on, for example late on a Sunday, you won't have to turn the whole house off until you have time to fix the faucet. Simply leave the trouble-making faucet off.

I'd get full port ball valves instead of gate or globe. Gate & globe fail to seal much sooner than ball valves, especially if you have minerals in the water. Full port, lead free ball valves are fairly inexpensive. The 1/2" sweat (solder-on) valves I purchased a couple of months ago were about $5.00 at SupplyHouse Com

If you don't have safe access for sweating the valves on, you can get compression valves. They're more expensive than sweat, but no torch is involved. Be sure to get the ones sized for copper. (They also are available for PEX, PVC and iron pipe.)

For sinks, you can install angle stops or ball valves behind or below. They come in NPT threaded, sweat or compression.

Again, congratulations on fixing the faucet!
Paul