Digging down along my foundation

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Either way if you come back to the same level, the measurement stays the same
If you have xft now and dig it all out and fill it with gravel, you still have xft.

:trophy: I am sure we will come to an understanding soon.
Will you be at or near the same level as it is now when you are done?

Yes, the overall grading of the area will not change. So, do I just dig out the high side, pit it to the low side, keep the grading for drainage. OR, do I dig the fill out, put gravel in there, keep the grading for drainage?
 
Yes, the overall grading of the area will not change. So, do I just dig out the high side, pit it to the low side, keep the grading for drainage. OR, do I dig the fill out, put gravel in there, keep the grading for drainage?

Yeah I thought of that too. You want gravel for a base for the block but the water can then go down into the gravel instead of running off with the landscaped slope.

If you have a place where you could drain the trench you could add a perforated pipe and waterproof the bottom of the trench..

You could water proof between the gravel and sand layer so water runs off from there.

Or just do a concrete sidewalk.
 
Yeah I thought of that too. You want gravel for a base for the block but the water can then go down into the gravel instead of running off with the landscaped slope.

If you have a place where you could drain the trench you could add a perforated pipe and waterproof the bottom of the trench..

You could water proof between the gravel and sand layer so water runs off from there.

Or just do a concrete sidewalk.

Next year, I plan to repave or use pavers for my whole driveway next year. This is a more of a stop gape for winter.
 
Next year, I plan to repave or use pavers for my whole driveway next year. This is a more of a stop gape for winter.

will the driveway have a slope down to the road.. Do you have a yard drain to a city storm drain.

Your yard is fairly level isn't it?
 
will the driveway have a slope down to the road.. Do you have a yard drain to a city storm drain.

Your yard is fairly level isn't it?

The yard i fairly level. The front of the garage is about the middle of the yard and the high point. The driveway slopes to the curb, and the walkway will slope the opposite way.

No yard drain.
 
The yard i fairly level. The front of the garage is about the middle of the yard and the high point. The driveway slopes to the curb, and the walkway will slope the opposite way.

No yard drain.

My fear is of a trench filled with gravel sloped toward the house will transport water back to the house. We don't want solve one problem and create a flooded basement.

How about, digging the trench on a slope down to the point center between the house and garage and water proof that with a couple layers of heavy poly (PLASTIC) to move the water to the that center spot before inters the dirt.
 
My fear is of a trench filled with gravel sloped toward the house will transport water back to the house. We don't want solve one problem and create a flooded basement.

How about, digging the trench on a slope down to the point center between the house and garage and water proof that with a couple layers of heavy poly (PLASTIC) to move the water to the that center spot before inters the dirt.

So, dig the berm on a V, sloping towards the garage? I could do that.

For the plastic, does it need to be heavy duty?

I agree, the last thing I need is a flooded basement.
 
So, dig the berm on a V, sloping towards the garage? I could do that.

For the plastic, does it need to be heavy duty?

I agree, the last thing I need is a flooded basement.

Yeah if it is going to hold water and stretch into shape and not cut with the gravel.
Perhaps a layer of sand just below and just above it to protect it.
6 mil is what they put under concrete in the basement.
 
This is the area. The post is the black thing. There are 2 on this side.

walk.JPG
 
Funny, that is not the picture I had in my head. So do you have gutters and down spouts on the house and will you be adding them to the garage?

Before you built the garage and you had a rain, the water was spread out over the area, now half of that water is landing between the house and the garage.
 
Funny, that is not the picture I had in my head. So do you have gutters and down spouts on the house and will you be adding them to the garage?

Before you built the garage and you had a rain, the water was spread out over the area, now half of that water is landing between the house and the garage.

The garage will get eves and a downspout. The house has a mansard roof, so putting eves are not easy.

Now you see why I want to put in a V.

So, that grassy area is about a foot higher than the dirt beside it. What would you suggest?
 
I would think about digging the V like you have said, with poly from up the house foundation to up the garage foundation, sloped one way or the other with a perforated pipe with pipes up to catch the downspouts.
Run that pipe to open area front or back yard to lower area or a french drain. Then you will have no water against the foundation in that area.
 
I would think about digging the V like you have said, with poly from up the house foundation to up the garage foundation, sloped one way or the other with a perforated pipe with pipes up to catch the downspouts.
Run that pipe to open area front or back yard to lower area or a french drain. Then you will have no water against the foundation in that area.

There are no downspouts yet. When there will be, they will not be in that area. They will be at the other end of the Garage.
 
There are no downspouts yet. When there will be, they will not be in that area. They will be at the other end of the Garage.

So the area won't get more water than it did before the garage but the garage may block the path of the water and the gravel will hold the water and more will work it's way to the bottom of the foundation.

If your new height will be at or close to the entry into the garage, the new level will be a raised area so maybe do you gravel and then the poly and sand so water will be directed to the other end of the garage away from the house.
 
Now, about the grassy area, do I dig that down all the way to the point that the rest of the trench is? Or do I just get rid of the grass, and then do as you suggested?
 
Now, about the grassy area, do I dig that down all the way to the point that the rest of the trench is? Or do I just get rid of the grass, and then do as you suggested?

You are suppose to prep the area by removing soil and compacting gravel but if you don't disturb the soil under the grass, I would leave it unless the soil is particularly loose, if that makes sense.
 
You are suppose to prep the area by removing soil and compacting gravel but if you don't disturb the soil under the grass, I would leave it unless the soil is particularly loose, if that makes sense.

It does. The soil I do remove to make the profile, can I simply pit it in th trench to build it up so I don't need so much gravel? I will tamp it down.
 
I think Neal may be over-thinking this a bit. But the idea of a perf pipe is a good one. Dig down a foot...maybe 16 inches and lay the pipe right down the middle. Use a pipe sock or landscape cloth to prevent clogging. Then lay in the gravel to cover the pipe (about 1 inch below the finished grade). The last inch should be paver sand or concrete dust or something similar. level that and lay in your pavers. As long as you're not laying soil against the wood on either side, the finished grade can be wherever you want it. The only concern is where the perf pipe will end. Do you want it open to the ground in either direction or would you want to continue the trench to a convenient location?
As far as the footers are concerned; if they are visible at the surface, you will have to cut the pavers around them. If they are at least as deep as the depth of the pavers, just add the same sand and lay the pavers flush up against the post (again, you may have to cut pavers to make them fit within the pattern you choose).
One last thought: polymeric sand is great as a finish sand between the pavers, but it sheds water rather than letting it soak in. So you may have more surface runoff than expected. OTOH, regular sand will allow water to seep into the soil and gravel, but given the location between buildings, you may not want that to happen, even though the perf pipe is there. It's above my pay grade to make that decision for you.
 
I think Neal may be over-thinking this a bit. But the idea of a perf pipe is a good one. Dig down a foot...maybe 16 inches and lay the pipe right down the middle. Use a pipe sock or landscape cloth to prevent clogging. Then lay in the gravel to cover the pipe (about 1 inch below the finished grade). The last inch should be paver sand or concrete dust or something similar. level that and lay in your pavers. As long as you're not laying soil against the wood on either side, the finished grade can be wherever you want it. The only concern is where the perf pipe will end. Do you want it open to the ground in either direction or would you want to continue the trench to a convenient location?
As far as the footers are concerned; if they are visible at the surface, you will have to cut the pavers around them. If they are at least as deep as the depth of the pavers, just add the same sand and lay the pavers flush up against the post (again, you may have to cut pavers to make them fit within the pattern you choose).
One last thought: polymeric sand is great as a finish sand between the pavers, but it sheds water rather than letting it soak in. So you may have more surface runoff than expected. OTOH, regular sand will allow water to seep into the soil and gravel, but given the location between buildings, you may not want that to happen, even though the perf pipe is there. It's above my pay grade to make that decision for you.


I am using 12''x24'' patio stones.

Digging down for a drain is a good idea. Where should it go? How far beyond the walkway should I lay it?

The footers? Do you meant he footings? The ones for the house are at least 4 feet down. Not an issue.
 
12x24x? The length and width of the pavers is really not a concern, but how thick are they? If they are two inches thick, then that has to be accounted for in determining whether they will collide with your footings. I'm not at all concerned with how deep the footings go because whatever you expose at the surface, you will be filling back in with gravel and sand. But if the top of the footing is exposed...or only one inch below the surface,,,then your pavers will have to detour around them. Or you will have to cut them to fit, Or use decorative gravel to fill the gap or something like that.
 
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