Dormer Roof Fried Shingles

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There really is no good way to repair the gable and tie into the roof. If the shingles are brittle you will just transfer the point of water intrusion. I would somehow find funding to replace at least the total front. There are companies around here that advertise monthly payments.
 
Hi

thanks again for all the help and advice on all this.

I really am reluctant to try and borrow my way through this. Firstly, firms that do financing like this will charge top dollar on their work and there'll be disguised top dollar on the financing as well. As well as this, the financing will just sold on to a bank and they're all shysters and crooks so who wants to get involved with that. Not something I'm going to do in these uncertain times.

I agree with old dog that trying to weave a repair into the existing shingles wouldn't work. Even if the tabs didn't snap off, they'd be weakened from bending and doing stuff in the valley runs the risk of breaching the ice & water shield seal at that point. I think "leave well alone" as much as possible on the existing intact roof is best.

I'm minded to use my architectural shingles to create a cap over the disintegrating gable roof. From our discussions, it seems that at least the tabs should be removed where the repair is to be made. This could be done to, say, about 18" above the valley and then my architectural shingles could be placed over the prepared area, with an overlap to the existing untampered with roof (at the bottom by the valley) of about 6". The underneath of the join between the bottom new shingles and the existing roof could be tarred to create a seal and then the new shingles just installed in a regular manner covering the gable roof with the area shown by the red line on this photo.

The last 2 winters we've had giant ferocious blizzards - the one last winter bringing about the current situation - and I really don't think a tarp solution would survive more than a couple of those and I don't want expense further down the line as early as next maybe February of having to spend more money to replace what is a temporary solution. Real roofing materials have the big advantage of at least being being tough and resilient.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this approach. If it really won't work well, more thinking to do...

P10105951.jpg
 
It boils down to do you feel the valley area is ok and will it last for a while. Water running down the gable roof with your plan will do fine. Water running down the main roof will come to the valley and try and go straight under the cut shingles. What will stop it is the tar job sealing the bottom edge of the shingles down. I would tar (or something) the whole valley to start. Then tar (or something) the new shingles down at the start.
 
Now..I'm not steppin on any toes here... but you should do this right the first time...or pay more in the long run. Your trying to fix an issue that is one of the most important parts of your home. If your looking for a new answer, everyone here... all professionals, have already said. Remove and replace. There is nothing to think about, but you are able to do whatever you like... and suffer the leaks when those big rains and snows you talk about show up.

My advice, get a few roofers out to give you quotes, see who will work with you if you already have the materials, Barter something you have, or can do.... but just don't half *** the roof... your just waiting for it to leak. Then the stains start inside, then the mold, then the damage triples.
Call your local bank, credit union, State office for small loans. You know the drill. Try the trade schools.
Talk to local organizations, Church groups that donate money to help out, anything you can think of... it never hurts to ask. My wife's great grandparents borrowed money from their church to by this farm 100 years ago.... paid them back in 2 years after they did so well with the farm.. Interesting ain't it.

Good luck, and PLEASE let us know what happens. It is a cute home.;)
 
Hi and thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. I am very mindful of trying to do the right thing here and I'll certainly look into what kind of financial help might be available for this sort of thing.

I believe the valley is sound. It's where all the water from the gable ends up and there's no leak at all visible inside the building. In fact there's no signs at all of water getting into the house at all although with the gaps in the shingles I'm sure some limited amounts of water must be getting in. The issues I can see with my approach (and there are surely others I don't see) are

1) determining at what point to shingle down to. My thought is to go to a foot above the valley to minimize the likelihood of water wicking up and maybe getting in, notwithstanding that the bottom shingle is tarred. Looking across the road, I can see a house with the same roof and from the rain this morning there's a narrowing triangle of dampness in the valleys going from about 8" at the bottom to nothing at the top.

2) The roofer has to stand somewhere to do this and can he possibly stand on the existing roof, and valley, without damage causing damage and a leak.

Do roofers have any way of doing things to avoid (2)?

Again, I really do appreciate the time and effort you people I don't even know are putting into advising a newbie on my issue.

I have a sort of irregular income which, god willing, may just double in January and then I can get this really fixed next year. The crisis is taking a while to go away in some self-employed corners of the economy. I have friends in the same situation.
 
Hi Nealtw

that's a very good arrangement. I'm not surprised it isn't on this house. Although it was in sound but rather dilapidated condition there were some real goofs:

1) almost no guttering

2) where it did exist, the downpipes were upside down so water ran out (!)

3) therefore flooded basement

4) concrete in basement was on a slope AWAY from the sump pump giving 3" of water in a rainstorm and a foot in a hurricane

5) No shingling of the returns on the gables, just bare wood - invitation to rot

6) sky visible through garage roof

7) totally fried and shingles on small roof on the east side and on the sunroom on the north.

and that's just the roof related stuff!

and the list goes on and on.. sewer pipes not airtight.

Buying an old house has all sorts of hidden wonders! Still, it has (so far as I currently know) turned out to be just idiotic things that needed doing and the materials are great. Underfloor beams with a full 12" by 4" section and almost as hard as concrete, wood floors with 3" of hardwood and floor boards and loads of cedar. 2 layers of cedar roof boards each 1" thick on rafters a full 5" by 5". Fantastic..
 
Often there is two layers of roofing on a house. Areyou sure you aren't looking at a lighter colour shingle under these?
 
Hi Neiltw

I went up the ladder and had a close look and it definitely is wood sadly.

I just had a roofer around and his suggestion is to re-shingle the gable and run shingles about 8-15" beyond the valley onto the main roof. On the main roof they would be nailed on top of the existing shingles and then tarred around to seal the edge on the main roof. He says the valley is really pretty much dead as well (although not leaking) and he wouldn't be nailing the new layer of shingles into the valley so it wouldn't be punctured but it would be protected.
 
That was kind of my suggestion minus the weave. It would cover you over into the better roofing and if the edge was sealed down should be a good temporary fix I would think. Anything is going to be better than nothing.
 
Hi bud16415

that's absolutely right. I have another guy coming so we'll see what he says. The guy who came round said he could do it for $125 which is very reasonable
 
That sounds very reasonable. Just be careful if he gets hurt or something and he's not bonded. I know you plan on keeping your eye on him.


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Hi bud16415

he's pretty well known in the area and does a fair bit of work around the place so I think we're fine there. He's in his 60's so I figure he knows what he's about by now.
 
Have him cut the shingles so you get a nice straight edge along the valley and it shouldn’t even be too noticeable. You are right age counts for something.

Post some photos when you get done.

I don’t think I mentioned it before but you have a very nice old home there. I’m an old home lover and they don’t make them like that anymore. Looks to be in fine shape its lucky to have found you. Love the big freeze boards.
 
Yes, one thing I have found is that this house needed everything, insulation, rewiring, heating upstairs, upstairs shower room, upgraded downstairs bathroom and kitchen to name but a few.

I hear lots from people locally who have had bad experiences of half, and badly done jobs. They've paid for a house they think has been upgraded only to find half-assed work which either does major damage or simply hasn't really been done properly - eg/ insulation. By buying a house that had none of this done I've been able either to do or organize these things myself so it gets done right.

For example we burn 2.5 cords of wood thru winter and about 1/4 tank of heating oil and some friends with a house about 1/3 the size get through 3.5 cords. It's because I organized the insulation in this house whereas they bought it supposedly already insulated, but actually not properly.

It's a good thing to buy a place cheap that's basically sound but needs everything because you end up with a better job (notwithstanding the temporary fix I'm having to do on this roof!).
 
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