Dripping tub question

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affan habib

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We were out for vacation. I turned my water off. When we came back yesterday, I slowly turned the water on while keeping the kitchen faucet open. When I went upstairs, I found the bath tub faucetbwas open (I think I probably didn't close it when I turned water off and drained water before going for vacation). When I closed the tub faucet, it was dripping cold water. It was almost a stream yesterday and today it slowed down to dripping. The faucet was absolutely fine before. Is it possible that the seal/spring got damaged or displaced when I turned water yesterday? My tub dies not have separate valve so I need to shut my water main in order to either replace seal/spring or cartridge. When I turn the water off, do I just open the tub faucet to drain water or do I need to open all the faucets in the house to drain all water? Also, when I turn water back on, do I need to slowly open the water main and keep at least one faucet open? Thanks in advance.
 
All I would do is shut off the water main and then open the tub and let any pressure off when the water stops flowing change whatever parts you need to change. I would close the valve then turn water back on and then test the valve. Expect some air sputter at first.
 
All I would do is shut off the water main and then open the tub and let any pressure off when the water stops flowing change whatever parts you need to change. I would close the valve then turn water back on and then test the valve. Expect some air sputter at first.
Thanks for your reply. So when I turn the water back, no need to slowly open the main valve and keep a faucet open so avoid excessive pressure inside the pipes (a friend told me that but I am not sure how accurate is that)?
 
I have never worried about that. Sometimes draining back the water like you did and then restarting with old pipes there can be rust and gunk breaking free in the pipes. That's likely what happened and something got caught in the valve and caused the dripping.
 
I have never worried about that. Sometimes draining back the water like you did and then restarting with old pipes there can be rust and gunk breaking free in the pipes. That's likely what happened and something got caught in the valve and caused the dripping.
Yes, sometime it happend with me.
 
I take a slightly different approach.

When we leave for several weeks.I just shut the main valve, however on our return, I slightly open every faucet and partial close each WC supply valve, then open the main, SLOWLY, until flow is heard, then monitor, starting with the farthest from the main, until there is no sputtering, and shut each faucet in succession, then fully open the main.

Never encountered your difficulty.
 
When I was an apprentice, we were taught to open valves very slowly to avoid a sudden slam of pressure against an elbow. But, that was in the days when 90% of piping was galvanized. I still open slowly with copper to prevent calcium or phosphate coating from breaking loose.

When you repair your faucet, Affan, if there is access behind; perhaps cut in local shut off valves on the supply to the faucet. If your plumbing is copper' available are push-on valves so you don't have to solder. Shark Bite is one brand.

Paul
PS: Instead of winterizing the house, perhaps install a temperature monitor or thermostat that will send an alert to your phone or e-mail if the temperature in the house drops below your choice of temperature. If you get an alarm notification, ask a trusted friend to check the house.

PPS: If you have hydronic or steam heat with automatic make-up water, don't shut off house water unless the hydronic or steam system is winterized as well. This can be a fire hazard if your boiler fires dry due to a leak.
 
When I was an apprentice, we were taught to open valves very slowly to avoid a sudden slam of pressure against an elbow. But, that was in the days when 90% of piping was galvanized. I still open slowly with copper to prevent calcium or phosphate coating from breaking loose.

When you repair your faucet, Affan, if there is access behind; perhaps cut in local shut off valves on the supply to the faucet. If your plumbing is copper' available are push-on valves so you don't have to solder. Shark Bite is one brand.

Paul
PS: Instead of winterizing the house, perhaps install a temperature monitor or thermostat that will send an alert to your phone or e-mail if the temperature in the house drops below your choice of temperature. If you get an alarm notification, ask a trusted friend to check the house.

PPS: If you have hydronic or steam heat with automatic make-up water, don't shut off house water unless the hydronic or steam system is winterized as well. This can be a fire hazard if your boiler fires dry due to a leak.
Thank you all for all the feedback and help. It looks like my facet had "self healed". Thr dripping gradually slowed down and now it is completely gone. I think the seal/spring might have been a little "disturbed" due to the sudden water pressure and got gradually back to their correct position ( purely my guess and I could be completely wrong).

Thanks again folks.
 
Any rubber washers in the valve may have dried up a bit while the water was off. Or may have been some crud that dried in place. And now that everything has had a chance to rehydrate......
 
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