- Joined
- Jun 5, 2014
- Messages
- 4,233
- Reaction score
- 1,922
I know that having a window in a shower is not the best of ideas-- but I've found some direct-to-stud surround kits that are designed to allow windows (& have coordinating trim kits). And mother dearest is adamant that we not lose that window or cover it up but she is ok with putting a tub/shower combo in that spot (and nowhere else- I've tried discussing other alternatives).
I have a looong thread on that bathroom reno discussion already, but I wanted to make a new thread to discuss this specific aspect so it doesn't get totally lost in the other thread.
I currently have an old single-hung metal window that sucks (it doesn't operate properly and it has horrible R value).
It is an odd size and I haven't been able to find any replacements that are the right size-- much less having the bottom panel be in tempered glass (IIRC, the glass must be tempered up to 60" from the floor)-- window starts at around 47" from floor. So, I was thinking I could use a glass block window with a hopper vent.
The window (with the wood framing around it) is approximately 22.75Wx34.75H.
I'm trying to decide on what is the most economical of my options:
1. Go with a pre-made Redi2Set window (Rough Opening: 22-in x 36-in; Actual: 21.25-in x 34.75-in) for $181.22 +10% tax. Jamb depth 3.125".
2. Make my own window using the Provantage system that consists of a 40 in. horizontal spacer, an 8 in. vertical spacer and either an anchor and expansion strip or a 4 in. wide Seves brand U-shaped perimeter channel. Spacer are positioned between each glass block and held in place with REDI2BOND glass block silicone.
3. Make my own window using Redi2Set system and blocks. These blocks are slimmer (approximately 3" instead of 4") but I think they might be more expensive and I don't know if the system is as detailed as the Provantage one (unless they are both the same thing using different sized blocks).
#1 is frameless & needs to have the top and bottom parts cut to fit while sides may need to be filled in a little) and it is supposed to be set with mortar on all sides (and I will need to put down wall ties to make the mortar stick to the wood). I will have to ask the manufacturer if I can use the Redi2Set glass block framing channel & spacer kit instead of mortar. I need to research to find out if the spacers go under the bottom, edge, and top rows or if the blocks are put straight in to the framing channels.
#2 only works with the Seves 4" wide block. Silicone joints are not recommended for wet wall projects so I will probably have to use caulk. I will have to find out if I can use it with the Seves 8"x16" hopper vent. But, with the block sizes available, it will have to be wider-- with about 24"W x36"H rough opening. For the very top row and bottom two rows I would use three 8"x8" blocks (actual size is slightly smaller), two 8"x4" blocks sandwiching an 8"x16" hopper vent. My concern with this one is that it is fairly thick (and very heavy) and I'm concerned about the silicone being said to not be ideal.
#3 appears to have most of the same parts-- channels, spacers, caulk/grout, etc but I would have to see the pricing. I would use the same size blocks. I don't know if specific blocks are required and I think the kit is not available at HD but at Lowes (where things tend to be more expensive and it's farther away than HD). Also, it looks like I would have to build it in place and not just make a frame to fit inside and then slide it in (although, that might be better because a finished kit might be too heavy).
I wonder if any of these would require the expansion strips.
Has anyone here ever made a glass block window before?
Any tips?
Should I just stick with a pre-made window?
Not counting nails, grout, and tax, the second option would come to around $150. Tax would be an additional $15 or more. So, that is cheaper than the pre-made window, but the pre-made window would still need channels and mortar.
Is there an alternative to grout that is easier to use? It says I need "Acrylic polymer modified cement based grout", grout sealer, and #6 x 1" Flat Head Galvanized Screws.
Also, it looks like with the 8" blocks the rough opening is only 31-7/8. So, it is wider than the existing window but not as tall.
I have a looong thread on that bathroom reno discussion already, but I wanted to make a new thread to discuss this specific aspect so it doesn't get totally lost in the other thread.
I currently have an old single-hung metal window that sucks (it doesn't operate properly and it has horrible R value).
It is an odd size and I haven't been able to find any replacements that are the right size-- much less having the bottom panel be in tempered glass (IIRC, the glass must be tempered up to 60" from the floor)-- window starts at around 47" from floor. So, I was thinking I could use a glass block window with a hopper vent.
The window (with the wood framing around it) is approximately 22.75Wx34.75H.
I'm trying to decide on what is the most economical of my options:
1. Go with a pre-made Redi2Set window (Rough Opening: 22-in x 36-in; Actual: 21.25-in x 34.75-in) for $181.22 +10% tax. Jamb depth 3.125".
2. Make my own window using the Provantage system that consists of a 40 in. horizontal spacer, an 8 in. vertical spacer and either an anchor and expansion strip or a 4 in. wide Seves brand U-shaped perimeter channel. Spacer are positioned between each glass block and held in place with REDI2BOND glass block silicone.
3. Make my own window using Redi2Set system and blocks. These blocks are slimmer (approximately 3" instead of 4") but I think they might be more expensive and I don't know if the system is as detailed as the Provantage one (unless they are both the same thing using different sized blocks).
#1 is frameless & needs to have the top and bottom parts cut to fit while sides may need to be filled in a little) and it is supposed to be set with mortar on all sides (and I will need to put down wall ties to make the mortar stick to the wood). I will have to ask the manufacturer if I can use the Redi2Set glass block framing channel & spacer kit instead of mortar. I need to research to find out if the spacers go under the bottom, edge, and top rows or if the blocks are put straight in to the framing channels.
#2 only works with the Seves 4" wide block. Silicone joints are not recommended for wet wall projects so I will probably have to use caulk. I will have to find out if I can use it with the Seves 8"x16" hopper vent. But, with the block sizes available, it will have to be wider-- with about 24"W x36"H rough opening. For the very top row and bottom two rows I would use three 8"x8" blocks (actual size is slightly smaller), two 8"x4" blocks sandwiching an 8"x16" hopper vent. My concern with this one is that it is fairly thick (and very heavy) and I'm concerned about the silicone being said to not be ideal.
#3 appears to have most of the same parts-- channels, spacers, caulk/grout, etc but I would have to see the pricing. I would use the same size blocks. I don't know if specific blocks are required and I think the kit is not available at HD but at Lowes (where things tend to be more expensive and it's farther away than HD). Also, it looks like I would have to build it in place and not just make a frame to fit inside and then slide it in (although, that might be better because a finished kit might be too heavy).
I wonder if any of these would require the expansion strips.
Has anyone here ever made a glass block window before?
Any tips?
Should I just stick with a pre-made window?
Not counting nails, grout, and tax, the second option would come to around $150. Tax would be an additional $15 or more. So, that is cheaper than the pre-made window, but the pre-made window would still need channels and mortar.
Is there an alternative to grout that is easier to use? It says I need "Acrylic polymer modified cement based grout", grout sealer, and #6 x 1" Flat Head Galvanized Screws.
Also, it looks like with the 8" blocks the rough opening is only 31-7/8. So, it is wider than the existing window but not as tall.
Last edited: