How can I fix this?

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fastsvo

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2018
Messages
26
Reaction score
1
I had sheet rock installed in my garage and now a few months later I decided to install the trim pieces for all the outlets and switches. To my disbelief this is what I found!

Is there a painless work around here? Spacers?

Thanks in advance!20181112_181314.jpeg20181112_181310.jpeg
 
You cut around the retainer for each switch and outlet and remove them, from there there are two cures I've used, #1 is to stack #6 washers on the screws and reset the switches and outlets, #2 is too wrap some #12 or #14 bare conductor around the screws before reinstalling them.

Getting the depth correct is the adjustment.

Then you'll probably need to use an oversized trim, which are available in mid, and jumbo.
 
I had that problem when I redid a foyer wall in frame and panel. I had PVC (Sentra sign material) scraps in the shop and made spacers out of that. Cut a strip with a utility knife to go across the bottom of the switches, same on the top.
 
If you snap the Mickey Mouse ears off some outlets they will work as washers for spacing. Screws should be long enough.
 
They sell plastic shims in the electrical department at the big box stores that stack together for whatever thickness you need.

Cut the mud or drywall to expose the yoke of each receptacle, unscrew them, add the shims, and screw back in. You may want to pick up some longer screws while you are there.
 
Here is something I have used that works well.

Box extenders

You will more than likely (as mentioned) need longer screws for the receptacles going into the box. You will need 6/32's. You can buy then in an assortment pack (different lengths). Cut the sheet rock around the box so the extenders fit. These extenders come in different depths. Also a variety of 1, 2 gang etc configurations. I like these because they do not take up space inside the box and only fit on the edge of the box.
 
Do what Jeff said. Those plastic spacers work great and cheap too. Mine are blue in color but that may vary. No need to put yourself into a lot of work.
 
You cut around the retainer for each switch and outlet and remove them, from there there are two cures I've used, #1 is to stack #6 washers on the screws and reset the switches and outlets, #2 is too wrap some #12 or #14 bare conductor around the screws before reinstalling them.

Getting the depth correct is the adjustment.

Then you'll probably need to use an oversized trim, which are available in mid, and jumbo.

The National Electric Code (NEC) forbids such techniques. The front edge of an electrical box may be no more than 1/4 inch back from the surface of a non combustible wall finish. The reason that we use electrical boxes at all; instead of just placing the receptacles and switches in a hole in the wall or baseboard as was done at first; is to contain any sparks or arcing to the inside of the box while the Over Current Protective Device (OCPD) does it's job.

"314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.).
In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.

Leaving any gap into the wall around the front edge of the box makes a pathway for a fire of electrical origin or a fire burning the rooms contents to readily enter the wall cavity and take hold in the framing of the structure. A good Sheetrock job with closely fitted openings will confine the fire to the compartment of origin for a full 20 minutes. That gives time for your smoke detectors to alarm, your family to evacuate, someone to call the fire department, and firefighters to respond. Thus holding the fire to a "room and contents" and greatly limiting your loss. The NEC isn't enforced to make extra work for you. It's purpose is "the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity."

"90.1 Purpose.
(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity."

NEALTW has offered the correct answer.

The cure for boxes which are set that far back is to cut out around the edge of the box using a rotary tool and a guide point plaster cutting bit. The blunt guide point rides the outer edge of the box thus making a nearly perfect cut out. That very close cut leaves the cut out in compliance with:

314.21 Repairing Noncombustible Surfaces. Noncombustible surfaces that are broken or incomplete around boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be repaired so there will be no gaps or open spaces greater than 3 mm (1⁄8 in.) at the edge of the box."

You then measure the actual set back and select the right device to bring it out to the surface of the Sheetrock. Here are pictures of 2 of the products available to do the task right.
034481012092.jpg

smart-fill-spacers-boxes-brackets-dg12-5-64_1000.jpg


You obviously want to do this right or you wouldn't have asked how. So don't take any of the expedient short cuts. Fix it! THEN forget it!

--
Tom Horne
 

Latest posts

Back
Top