It is needless expense and labor to replace a door that can be repaired by planing or with cost of matchbook cover. If house is still shifting, and most move through out their existence, rehanging doors will be ongoing chore. As long as frame is secure it is easier to adjust door than frame. Doors that swing shut or open can also be fixed by adjusting hinges. If adjusting leads to latch misalignment, longer strike plate for a dollar or two is cheaper than rehanging.
If, as you say, max, you want to replace some doors any way, pre-hung is best way. Latch height on pre-hung is no concern unless you want to match some non standard knob height in other doors, or non standard size of door.. A special order non standard door will cost a few bucks more, not much but mass producing factory its not pre-set for them. If knob height is non-standard buy un-drilled doors and a knob installation kit with jigs that have proper set back for knob, centering jigs for bolts and to hold bits perpendicular.
It is best to have more shimming on hinge side of casing than latch. That is sie that must be securely fastened plumb side to side and front to back. Put two shims one from front one from back, as neal sed, thin end to thin end and slide together so they are square to frame. Put shims immediatly above and below or directly behind hinges. I prefer mounting the casing with trim head screws, making sure they won't interfere with hinge screws. No nail or screw should go thru casing unless there is shim behind it. I replace at least one hinge screw with one long enough to reach frame. Shim above and below or behind strike and lock plate. Lock plate screws should reach frame.
For light weight interior and closet doors many builders install prehung doors with pre-installed trim on hinge pin side. Its not my preferred method, but I've done lots when I was running contract trim crew, even in high end homes. There is no real shimming involved, requires a fairly standard frame opening, fairly plumb walls at least on pin side, usually done before finish flooring. Very easy and quick, especially with casing nail gun and two installers.
Slide the door/casing unit into opening, untill trim is against wall, plump outer edge of hinge side trim, raise hinge or latch side of casing until top trim is level, face nail thru trim into studs with 3" casing nails. Sometimes some tapping from non trimmed side to correct for out of plumb walls. Blocking instead of shims behind casing in extreme case and behind hinges if needed to use longer screw into frame.. Fasten trim to casing and studs on other side. Thats it.
Note that this requires a close fitting, square, and plumb opening. One side of casing may have gap under it. In new construction gap was usually covered by flooring.
The builders I was working for had a 1/4" caulking tolerance even in "luxury" homes. I could barely tolerate their attitude, but if I bid to do it right way, I didn't get job. I eventually gave it up.