Need help building a deck

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It amazes me how a building built over 100 years ago that was never painted is still standing with no maintenance for the last 60 years yet thing we build today seen to not last at all. we must have used up all the old good wood.
 
I bought one house off the bank and in the garage I found i nice pile of slightly used fir 2x6 so I built a deck and painted it and sold the house. This was before I knew better.
I sold the house and about 5 years later the deck was gone, my guess , it was rotting.
 
It amazes me how a building built over 100 years ago that was never painted is still standing with no maintenance for the last 60 years yet thing we build today seen to not last at all. we must have used up all the old good wood.

Old growth wood is much harder and more resistant to rot.
 
Chris, I got an idea. We should have a crew come up and stay there for about a week and get this thing done for you. Kinda like a barn raising. You supply the wood, give us a place to flop and shower, and we help you get this thing from paper to reality. You supply drinks and food, and tell us what tools you need. It would be a great way to meet some other forum members, and create some lasting memories.
 
Chris, I got an idea. We should have a crew come up and stay there for about a week and get this thing done for you. Kinda like a barn raising. You supply the wood, give us a place to flop and shower, and we help you get this thing from paper to reality. You supply drinks and food, and tell us what tools you need. It would be a great way to meet some other forum members, and create some lasting memories.

Stop and pick me up and I'll go.....
 
Sounds like a plan Tom. Travel west, and I will pick you up at the 210 freeway at Campus Avenue in Upland.
 
I might as well drive down and ride with Tom.
 
Come on up, I have a barn to build too. I'll supply food, drinks, tractors and tools. I don't think there is a tool I don't own. Only thing I'm missing is experience in building structures and manpower.
 
I was Just in Chicago....it would have saved me a bunch of drivin..
Gidiuup!!:usa:
 
So on my ledger board I am trying to wrap it around my head how it is more water tight be removing the siding and then cutting the siding to fit around it with some flashing is better than butting it up and sealing it? Can you guys help me understand this better? Every house I look at around here it is lag bolted to the siding. I don't have a problem either way but want the best way.
 
What stops water that runs down the face of the ledger from going inside the siding from the bottom edge? Should there be another flashing?
 
Are you talking about deck boards or solid surface?

That was dumb. there would be no water under a solid surface.:rofl:

So that is a good question, most times we installed decks with boards at main floor level and the would be no siding below. So yes another flashing there or cut a notch out of the ledger so it fits over the siding, maybe.
 
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Are you talking about deck boards or solid surface?

That was dumb. there would be no water under a solid surface.:rofl:

So that is a good question, most times we installed decks with boards at main floor level and the would be no siding below. So yes another flashing there or cut a notch out of the ledger so it fits over the siding, maybe.

OK, that was kinda what I was thinking too. I haven't found much that covers it. What I am building would be the same as a deck near ground level but 8 feet in the air.
 
I think I would wrap the whole ledger board with a big Z flashing or a Z flashing and then tin with a drip edge tucked behind the Z and hanging down a little below the bottom of the ledger, and then bolt my joist hangers thru the flashing. Then start the siding again below the ledger.

Any water behind the siding would run down the tar paper or house wrap and take the Z out and around the siding below.

Just an idea.

I don’t like the idea of bolting thru the siding.
 
OK, that was kinda what I was thinking too. I haven't found much that covers it. What I am building would be the same as a deck near ground level but 8 feet in the air.

Any flashing that comes in contact with treated lumber should be galvanized steel. Aluminum will disappear quickly.
 
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