Not overloading the generator

[bud16415]

IMO you have two options.



One is to isolate everything you will be needing temporary power to with its own outlet and plug and then run extension cords thru the home and pull those plugs and plug them into the gen. I believe this is what you are set up to do now.



The second way would be to use a proper transfer switch system where you pick out some number of circuits say six and then have a gen sized for those six circuits and when it is used there is a failsafe method of disconnecting from the power company and connecting part of your home to the gen.



Here is an example of one.



Reliance Controls 30 Amp 250-Volt 7500-Watt Non-Fuse 6-Circuit Transfer Switch Kit-3006HDK - The Home Depot



Doing any other method of homemade jumpers and needing to make sure power is disconnected manually is just asking for trouble. All you need is one mistake and you are going along fine and the power comes back on and there is a back feed, or worse yet someone from the utility gets electrocuted from your back feed working on the line. You could back feed to your neighbor and he may be running a gen also.

The best way is get a pro out and have him sort out your panel and possibly rewire some of your house so six of your circuits cover your main needs. For instance maybe you would like your microwave to work and refrigerator in the kitchen. Then furnace and water pump. Maybe TV or radio and internet and one light in each room. Your house may or may not be wired to suit this.

 

[swimmer_spe]

Look up the specs for your generator, as a 240V machine it has a max amperage that is not to be exceeded. That amperage does not go up just because you are using 120V loads.

The 120V circuits are essentially branch circuits and shouldn't all be on the same leg of the 240V. Some neutral currents will cancel at the generator receptacle panel and those loads will be seen as 240V by the winding. If it has four 120v receptacles (two on each leg) the loads will have to be divided such that the maximum amperage at any individual receptacle or the sum of the four does not exceed the generator current rating.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...-gas-powered-portable-generator-0550363p.html
That's the one I have. It is 11,500 peak watts.

 

[Eddie_T]

That appears to be a nice generator. I would assume that the four 20A 120V outlets are paired so that the two on the left are on one leg and the two on the right the other. So when the specs say 76.6 amps at 120V it means 38.3A max on the left paired outlets and 38.3A on the right so effectively it's 38.3A @240V.

When using the supplied cord just remember that those outlets are paired with those on the generator and don't add additional current capability. I assume the cord is for the 30A locking outlet.

 

[swimmer_spe]

That appears to be a nice generator. I would assume that the four 20A 120V outlets are paired so that the two on the left are on one leg and the two on the right the other. So when the specs say 76.6 amps at 120V it means 38.3A max on the left paired outlets and 38.3A on the right so effectively it's 38.3A @240V.

When using the supplied cord just remember that those outlets are paired with those on the generator and don't add additional current capability. I assume the cord is for the 30A locking outlet.

The cables have bee routed to specific things. None are overly high amperage, but they are all split around.

 

[Richard D. Crowder]

When it comes to generators, it's important to understand and adhere to their load capacity to avoid overloading. Overloading occurs when the total electrical load connected to the generator exceeds its maximum capacity. To prevent this, it is crucial to calculate the power requirements of the devices you plan to connect to the generator and ensure they don't exceed its rated capacity. This includes considering both the running and starting wattage of the appliances. Overloading a generator can lead to malfunctions, reduced performance, and even damage to the generator or connected devices. By following the manufacturer's guidelines and being mindful of the load capacity, you can safely and effectively operate a generator without overloading it.

 

[Eddie_T]

I didn't follow the recommended break-in instructions for my generator. My thinking as an engineer is that break-in should be under varying load conditions. Since my normal usage has been low level with occasional peaks never approaching full load (due to load management) I see my 23 years of emergency only use as just being a lengthy break-in.

 

[PJB12]

I realize that the thread is about loading, but some mentioned helpful tips for safely connecting the generator.
Step One: Ensure no power can feed back to the utility. it's critical.

An alternative to a transfer switch & the associated wiring is a product called "Generlink". It's like a transfer switch without the wiring. Plugging in a generator cord automatically isolates the utility line voltage so there is no backfeed on the utility lines.

To Install: One unplugs the meter from the socket, plugs the Generlink in and then plug the meter into the Generlink. The project is a 10 minute maximum job. The Generlink stays installed between uses.
I've put in some for friends & haven't had any complaints from them or from the utility companies.

Another, less expensive, option is a kit that you mount in the load center's inside cover. It's basically two pieces of metal that slide up and down. A circuit breaker is installed for the generator and wires are run to an outdoor male inlet. The kit is mounted so that the only time the generator inlet is live is when the main is off, thus isolating the utility power from back-feed.

The item has many brand names. One is "Interlockkit". Or, you can make your own out of sheet steel or aluminum.

Generator Maintenance Tip:
Use a fuel stabilizer. (Opinions vary on this, but I've used it for years & it helps with stored gasoline longevity

When done & the engine ins cool, always drain the tank & run until it stalls from lack of fuel. Then, if possible, drain the carburetor float bowl.

Pull the starter rope until firm resistance is felt. This puts the engine's pistons in the Compression Stroke, thus closing the valves & sealing out moisture.

Check the owner's manual for oil change interval. Some, like Honda GX340 series, require oil change every 6 months. I don't know why 6 months, as most of my generator work is with large Diesel & natural gas units.

Every 3 or 4 months, run the generator WITH A LOAD.
Reason: Connected to the alternator is an Exciter. It's purpose is to excite the field electrons, thus allowing them to move & do their job (super simplified explanation). On many small generators, the exciter is designed with a capacitor that is the "kickstarter" for electron flow. It self-dissipates over time. Running the generator with a load, however light & brief, will recharge the exictor circuitry. I plug in a simple lamp on my house unit.

If the generator ever does not produce voltage, suspect the exciter. Try This: Turn the generator's engine off. Leave the circuit breaker(s) on. Plug something with a brush type motor in, such as a hand held drill. Spin the chuck of the drill by hand** in either direction for a minute or so. This will "shove" electrons into the exciter, thus hopefully waking it up. Some manuals show how to re-excite with a 9 volt battery instead. Check yours or ask the alternator manufacturer.

** If you have a cordless drill, you can take a rod or a drill bit and connect the two together. Run the cordless in reverse to spin the electric drill forward.

I hope I didn't speak out of turn & off topic, but I thought these tips would be helpful.

Please Enjoy Today!
Paul

 

[PJB12]

Something about generator tips in my post above that was forgotten is to always test the ground fault receptacles. The generator is subject to humidity, lack of use and insects laying eggs inside. Then the GFI fails to trip. (Unheated garage & damp basement receptacles, too)

An inexpensive plug-in cube type GFI tester will provide a more accurate test than the test button on the receptacle. Also available are adjustable testers with various mA test faults available.

I want to apologize for the misspellings, bad grammar and poor explanations above. It was a "bad reading comprehension" day.
Paul

 

[Eddie_T]

This guy is lucky that the drill method didn't work for him.

 

[nobes]

I realize that the thread is about loading, but some mentioned helpful tips for safely connecting the generator.
Step One: Ensure no power can feed back to the utility. it's critical.

An alternative to a transfer switch & the associated wiring is a product called "Generlink". It's like a transfer switch without the wiring. Plugging in a generator cord automatically isolates the utility line voltage so there is no backfeed on the utility lines.

To Install: One unplugs the meter from the socket, plugs the Generlink in and then plug the meter into the Generlink. The project is a 10 minute maximum job. The Generlink stays installed between uses.
I've put in some for friends & haven't had any complaints from them or from the utility companies.

Another, less expensive, option is a kit that you mount in the load center's inside cover. It's basically two pieces of metal that slide up and down. A circuit breaker is installed for the generator and wires are run to an outdoor male inlet. The kit is mounted so that the only time the generator inlet is live is when the main is off, thus isolating the utility power from back-feed.

The item has many brand names. One is "Interlockkit". Or, you can make your own out of sheet steel or aluminum.

Generator Maintenance Tip:
Use a fuel stabilizer. (Opinions vary on this, but I've used it for years & it helps with stored gasoline longevity

When done & the engine ins cool, always drain the tank & run until it stalls from lack of fuel. Then, if possible, drain the carburetor float bowl.

Pull the starter rope until firm resistance is felt. This puts the engine's pistons in the Compression Stroke, thus closing the valves & sealing out moisture.

Check the owner's manual for oil change interval. Some, like Honda GX340 series, require oil change every 6 months. I don't know why 6 months, as most of my generator work is with large Diesel & natural gas units.

Every 3 or 4 months, run the generator guide www.safepowering.com.
Reason: Connected to the alternator is an Exciter. It's purpose is to excite the field electrons, thus allowing them to move & do their job (super simplified explanation). On many small generators, the exciter is designed with a capacitor that is the "kickstarter" for electron flow. It self-dissipates over time. Running the generator with a load, however light & brief, will recharge the exictor circuitry. I plug in a simple lamp on my house unit.

If the generator ever does not produce voltage, suspect the exciter. Try This: Turn the generator's engine off. Leave the circuit breaker(s) on. Plug something with a brush type motor in, such as a hand held drill. Spin the chuck of the drill by hand** in either direction for a minute or so. This will "shove" electrons into the exciter, thus hopefully waking it up. Some manuals show how to re-excite with a 9 volt battery instead. Check yours or ask the alternator manufacturer.

** If you have a cordless drill, you can take a rod or a drill bit and connect the two together. Run the cordless in reverse to spin the electric drill forward.

I hope I didn't speak out of turn & off topic, but I thought these tips would be helpful.

Please Enjoy Today!
Paul

Hi.

I have this all-in-one inverter/charger in my solar system. Works great.
Ifs a Epever 3000-hm10022. 3000watt/230v max 100A charge 24v battery.



But now, when i connect the generator, a loncin(predator) 3500i , to the grid (generator) input , the generator goes into overload mode. I'v found some simular threads here about some having the same issues, the generator goes into overload when charger goes into float mode. Wierd...

Seems like i'm in the same situation.

Tried some load (1200watt)direct into the generator, then it works fine, but
when connected into grid port and the battery is full it goes straight into overload..

But when i set charger/inverter in bypass mode, the generator don't stop! It giving power to (thru) the inverter and into the cabin..

Whats going on here? Is there a setting wrong? I also tryed to lower the charge current for the generator to 5A , still overloading..

 

[PJB12]

Hello Nobes,
Perhaps it would be better if you asked a moderator to move your question to a brand new post instead of mixing it with Swimmer-spe's post. Your question is quite different than that of his & may get lost here.

In the meantime...

I think Step 1 of finding your problem is try again while checking the fault code(s) displayed on the Epever. The manual will have the code chart. Maybe that will tell you how to proceed.

Step 2 may be to call Epever and ask for suggestions. Hopefully, they know their units. (I don't know if Epever employs the actual engineers/circuit designers or if they are simply another Chinese re-brander of Alibaba type stuff, thus voiding hopes of getting advice from them.)

Step 3 would be to borrow or rent a generator and try again. Perhaps your generator's frequency needs adjusting (or something similar) so that the Epever can sense the sine wave, voltage and current correctly. *Just Wild Guessing*

Diagnosing electrical, and especially electronic, circuit boards over the internet is difficult.

Actually, diagnosing in person may be, too:

Lots of Chinese manufacturers don't provide schematics and they dip the circuit boards in blackout epoxy, therfore no one can read the identification on the i.c.'s and other semiconductors. No one can see the traces either. This is so that no one steals the engineering design, but fault diagnosis now become quite difficult or impossible. (This "information blocking" is why my Alibaba sourced, Chinese made, re-branded Sears Craftsman battery lawnmower now has a homemade ECM controller instead of a factory replacement.)

Parts, too are often hard to get because many brand names will source at any of many manufacturers, thus parts don't match even in the same model number. (Why my mower has a generic safety switch and a homemade blade.)
I have no idea if Epever is one of those or if you or your repair person can get schematics.


If you can't find help from one of the good people here at HouseRepairTalk, or by trying the steps above, perhaps gather all the information and diagnostics that you did and post your question on AllAboutCircuits Com. That user group is made up of electrical and electronic engineers who are happy to help people.

Please Enjoy This Day!
Paul

 

[PJB12]

This guy is lucky that the drill method didn't work for him.

View attachment 31108

Hopefully the bucket-head had the engine off. (You Tube Up Next: Idiot Gets Glass Eye After Drill Throws Spoon)