nealtw
Contractor retired
If you plan on tile I would look at in floor heat.
Powder room upgrade plan, DIY with pics
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Have a look at the link I included; https://www.brasscraft.com/products/...14-turn-stops/
It shows both straight and angled devices under the title of "Angle Stops".
All of the 1/4 turn have a ball valve as their control because of the longevity. They are not 2 separate devices.
I plan on laying vinyl click flooring over the existing tile. I have removed the 1/2 tiles running up the wall as baseboards, but the remaining tile is in place still. I am worried the floor heating would be rather expensive. It is only 30 nches by 6 feet but adding the electricals worries me as I have no electrical skills.
nealtw
Contractor retired
The size is right for the smallest one and I have just hooked the small one with the lights. But you wouldn't do it with that floor I think.
Temporary hold being placed on bathroom until I figure plumbing... new learning need to go home depot or something and ask lots of details.
For now I have decided to concentrate the next few days on what I can do and that means leaving the bathroom project aside for a bit as there ismuch to learn there. I will start a new thread for the other ongoing project, the bedroom ...
For now I have decided to concentrate the next few days on what I can do and that means leaving the bathroom project aside for a bit as there ismuch to learn there. I will start a new thread for the other ongoing project, the bedroom ...
Something you'll find at the big boxes, is that certain times and days you can actually come across a "knowledgeable" tradesman, instead of a stand-in, occupying space.
So true. When I was redoing this whole place in PEX I ran into a retired plumber working at HD named Bo. The guy was amazing and saved me so much money suggesting simpler ways to do things than I was thinking along with saving me hours of searching the store. I actually call there now and ask if and when Bo will be in.
By the time the house was done and the day I was waiting in the parking lot when he arrived to work for him, I think he started hating me a bit. But we invited him over for dinner and all was good.
We also found one kitchen designer that owned a kitchen bath business for many years and retired. He was also amazing to work with. The other 95% of the people there dont bother asking them questions. Finding the right ones is an art.
Seriously this is crazy serendipity. I was at home depot for 3 hours with an amazing guy that held me out of my flooring misery. He also came from industry and knew do much. I ended up buying laminate but a rather nice one for my bedroom and den on the upper floor. I am so happy he took the time and energy and saved me over 1000 dollars and weeks of agonising back breaking work.
From the horse's mouth... Whatever that expression can't from lol
From the horse's mouth... Whatever that expression can't from lol
zannej
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Keep in mind that laminate flooring can be ruined very easily by water/moisture. One little spill that isn't cleaned up immediately and your floors can be messed up.
Editing to add that on some laminate, even if you clean it up right away, it can still be messed up. I have a friend who said her daughter went to bring her a bowl of soup (I think the kid is about 3 or 4) and she tripped and spilled the soup on the laminate. My friend cleaned it up asap, but the floor had already started bubbling up and the affected boards were ruined.
Also, sometimes people at HD and Lowes will claim to have expertise and not know WTF they are talking about, but they may sound like they do.
Editing to add that on some laminate, even if you clean it up right away, it can still be messed up. I have a friend who said her daughter went to bring her a bowl of soup (I think the kid is about 3 or 4) and she tripped and spilled the soup on the laminate. My friend cleaned it up asap, but the floor had already started bubbling up and the affected boards were ruined.
Also, sometimes people at HD and Lowes will claim to have expertise and not know WTF they are talking about, but they may sound like they do.
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slownsteady
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Laminate in the bedroom and den is okay, but not in the kitchen or bath. Stick to vinyl planks in there. If you lay the vinyl over the old tile, fill in the grout lines before you lay the new floor. you want a smooth and level finish.
Finally opted to remove all previous parquet floor. The one upstairs if very creaky and sound like popping bubbles when I walk on it with a plank of laminate on top ... Likely the over dried glue.
So far tests i did for removal showed that there is minimal damage to the particle board underlay.
Downstairs the parquet barely sticks to the cement floor (heated garage under cement) and I guess I'll have to pull the ceramics in the kitchen, order room and entrance... I'll forget the vinyl and learn to tile ��
Finally big news also from home depot. I walked right into a kitchen liquidation. Some overstock found on the warehouse going at 75 % off. So I got a brand new kitchen for 500 dollars yippee
So far tests i did for removal showed that there is minimal damage to the particle board underlay.
Downstairs the parquet barely sticks to the cement floor (heated garage under cement) and I guess I'll have to pull the ceramics in the kitchen, order room and entrance... I'll forget the vinyl and learn to tile ��
Finally big news also from home depot. I walked right into a kitchen liquidation. Some overstock found on the warehouse going at 75 % off. So I got a brand new kitchen for 500 dollars yippee
I have a question about tiling the floor; My 1st floor is a concrete slab above a heated garage. I am planning to use a pre lined floating laminate all over but tiling the powder room (sink and toilet). Should I tile directly on the concrete in there or should I add something on top of concrete for either or both floor coverings?
TIA
TIA
Just thinset for the tile.
Ok old thin set removed...ouch what a job !
Now getting ready to lay tiles, what a learning curve. I am so anxious about this but I got to bite the bullet. Trying to figure out how to tile under toilet flange, don't want to remove it because it is secure and I am not sure I will be able to secure it as solidly as it was.
Now getting ready to lay tiles, what a learning curve. I am so anxious about this but I got to bite the bullet. Trying to figure out how to tile under toilet flange, don't want to remove it because it is secure and I am not sure I will be able to secure it as solidly as it was.
oldognewtrick
In memory of
Remove the toilet, its easier than trying to cut around it and you'll have a much better install. 2 bolts.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Toilet flange
Just tile around it and there is a spacer you put on top of the flange to bring it up to height.
These are available from both HD & LOWES;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E83NY...t=&hvlocphy=9020931&hvtargid=pla-314836180923
zannej
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Wow, sounds like you're making great progress. I have parquet flooring in my house so I know all about the dried glue and popping. If you haven't tossed the ones you removed-- I recommend keeping a few for a future project and/or donating the intact/good ones to a place like Habitat for Humanity ReStore. That way they can be repurposed.
I hope it's ok to mention this link here, but here is a forum specifically for tiling called johnbridge. They have some pretty good tutorials over there. I believe John likes to use an orange honeycomb type underlayment called Schluter Ditra that goes under the thinset and makes tiles less likely to move/crack due to changes in temperature underneath.
If you will be re-installing the toilet yourself, make sure the bolts stay still when you go to put it down. If they don't, you can use washers on the bolts to make them stay still (had to do this for a friend's toilet). If it's the same toilet that had a wax ring on it before, make sure you clean it off very thoroughly before putting on a new wax ring. Dirty wax residue won't seal with new wax very well. If the temperature is cold when installing, use a hair dryer on lowest setting to just warm up the wax a tiny bit (not melting or anything). That way the wax will be more malleable/less brittle when you install the toilet.
I hope it's ok to mention this link here, but here is a forum specifically for tiling called johnbridge. They have some pretty good tutorials over there. I believe John likes to use an orange honeycomb type underlayment called Schluter Ditra that goes under the thinset and makes tiles less likely to move/crack due to changes in temperature underneath.
If you will be re-installing the toilet yourself, make sure the bolts stay still when you go to put it down. If they don't, you can use washers on the bolts to make them stay still (had to do this for a friend's toilet). If it's the same toilet that had a wax ring on it before, make sure you clean it off very thoroughly before putting on a new wax ring. Dirty wax residue won't seal with new wax very well. If the temperature is cold when installing, use a hair dryer on lowest setting to just warm up the wax a tiny bit (not melting or anything). That way the wax will be more malleable/less brittle when you install the toilet.
