maxdad118
JOAMOS
Like these?
Removing galvanized and going copper
- Thread starter maxdad118
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
maxdad118
JOAMOS
$6 for 10 supports??!! .59 eachx10.... I found these plastic ones in electrical conduit section for .99 a bag so I got 10 for $2!! Score!!��
Only if you drill a much larger hole in the cabinet, or also shut the water off, remove the valves and cap the copper to prevent debris from entering.
Do it once, or do it twice.
frodo
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2008
- Messages
- 3,067
- Reaction score
- 1,204
turn off the water, remove the stop, tape the pipe
pull the cabinet
as far as a hole in the cabinet, it would require a 1'' hole
that is covered by a shiny chrome eschaton
actually, you have to do the same damn thing when pulling a cabinet with the supply lines coming thru the back panel ...geeeeezzz
Last edited:
That there is more too it, than indicated in post #38.
"actually, you have to do the same damn thing when pulling a cabinet with the supply lines coming thru the back panel ...geeeeezzz"
Actually you plan ahead for that eventuality by cutting and removing part of the panel, when they exist, and either leaving it open or installing a removable piece, depending upon the customers preference.
"actually, you have to do the same damn thing when pulling a cabinet with the supply lines coming thru the back panel ...geeeeezzz"
Actually you plan ahead for that eventuality by cutting and removing part of the panel, when they exist, and either leaving it open or installing a removable piece, depending upon the customers preference.
frodo
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2008
- Messages
- 3,067
- Reaction score
- 1,204
never happens that way, the carpenters ALWAYS cut a 1'' or larger hole
because the pipe is capped and the cap must pass through the hole
I really do not understand your objection to piping coming up through the floor it is done all the time
we do it in colder climates when the plumbing is on the outside way. to keep the pipes from freezing
maxdad118
JOAMOS
The slop in the plastic is minimal, I will install them with a little offset so the pipe is tight. I put a piece of 3/4 in the clamp and they seemed perfect. We'll see, I'll make it work but I know your reasoning, thanks Frodo!��
On new installations, however the subject of the thread is repipe where it happens all the time, especially when customer service is the gateway to referrals.
I addressed that in post #21, however on the few that I punched through the floor, I held the hole near the back of the cabinet and notched the floor of the cabinet so it could be easily removed, without shutting off the water and removing the valves, which additionally didn't impede the storage.
I started doing this when there were no backs in the sink section of lav cabinets.
Customer service is why I've worked from referrals for over 35yrs. and do not advertise.
You can wrap the pipe with tape to take up the space.
maxdad118
JOAMOS
Spent a few hours running some copper from laundry room(slab) into crawl space, tied kitchen drop into tee 3/4x 1/2x 3/4...continued on over to master and stopped for the day. Dug up around riser to get a good look at it and premade the riser. Water heater valve and elbows premade along with washer tee and until I get the old stuff out of the way that's where I left off. Still need to add a tee and stub out for future tankless between the bathrooms.
Last edited:
maxdad118
JOAMOS
Thank you!
maxdad118
JOAMOS
For making my pvc connection at the riser location, can I use the primer and purple cement or is there a 'food grade' cement? I realize it fuses the plastics and isn't a glue but wondered if there is any precautions as I will be drinking from it! Haha. Can't be any worse than the nasty galvanized it's been going thru, right?
Last edited:
maxdad118
JOAMOS
Spent another fun morning in my crawl space. I tied in my 3/4 lines to both bathroom lines, the master is already copper so it's just waiting for me to shut off the water, cut it, install tee and tie it in. My father in law built the master and used 1/2" for everything so hopefully it doesn't cause an issue? I ran 3/4 to where I will tie into it. I ran out of energy under there because my old Dewalt cordless is garbage, battery doesn't hold a charge anymore, as I was drilling holes through the girders to keep it up high and eliminating the use of extra elbows. My piece of crap harbor freight corded drill started smoking when trying to drill through the foundation for my future tankless so that's on hold as well. But, I'm very close and that's rewarding! I'm short about (3) 10' sticks of copper so I'll have to get those this week, maybe tomorrow and borrow my father in laws hammer drill.
maxdad118
JOAMOS
I also noticed that some of the fittings(tees and elbows) came with a very subtle imperfection or burr and not allowing a clean de- burred pipe to fit very easily? I knew to debur a fresh cut edge but didn't notice the fittings to come with a small imperfection. Not all of them but some.. I've been using a rotoburr tool and this is very quick and easy!��
maxdad118
JOAMOS
Good to know, I've been doing it. Time consuming process too. Thanks��
