Should I drill holes to dry out the wood?

[tomtheelder2020]

I have replaced the leaking kitchen faucet. Based on data from my leak detector, I estimate a total leak volume of about 20 gallons over 3 days. The bottom of the cabinet under the sink was soaked but now water came out the doors. In the crawl space, I can see where the foundation wall and soil are damp. I have a fan blowing at the wet subfloor and I am keeping the cabinet doors open to help evaporation. However, it seems that the top of the subfloor in the enclosed space below the bottom of the cabinet likely got soaked. Air blowing on the wood at the top and bottom seem unlikely to dry that enclosed area anytime soon. Is there much risk that wood could start to rot? Is it worth drilling large holes in the bottom of the cabinet to allow air circulation (which would be a real pain to repair)?

 

[Snoonyb]

WOW, 20gal. I would put a fan in the crawl space.

 

[tomtheelder2020]

WOW, 20gal. I would put a fan in the crawl space.

Wow indeed. I have a fan drying the subfloor from below but I am afraid there could be a lot of moisture in the space enclosed by the subfloor and bottom of the cabinet. I am hoping someone has had a similar experience and say whether or not air drying above and below was enough.

 

[Snoonyb]

You could drill a couple of holes in the cabinet toe kick, which can be easily skinned over.

 

[havasu]

I'd recommend just removing the entire toe kick to aid in drying out the bottom of the cabinets.

 

[tomtheelder2020]

You could drill a couple of holes in the cabinet toe kick, which can be easily skinned over.

I'd recommend just removing the entire toe kick to aid in drying out the bottom of the cabinets.

Toe kick is a much better idea than the cabinet bottom Thanks guys!

 

[Snoonyb]

Toe kick is a much better idea than the cabinet bottom Thanks guys!

Depending upon the cabinet construction, IE, custom or modular, the toe kick may be able to be removed & replaced on cabinets individually, and may allow for a larger accessible area to be vented.

Your knees.

 

[dsteinhorn]

Remove toe kick and direct fan there for a couple of days. If cabinets are MDF, the MDF can swell but it won't matter functionally once dried out and inside the cabinet. Replacing toe kick is pretty easy to match. If toe kick isn't easy to pull out, cut it out and use 1/4" ply based material to cover entire toe kick and match finish. Shoe base optional in toe kick

 

[PJB12]

Maybe just removing the caulk that seals the kick panel to the floor is enough to let standing water drain out. If you live north, it's heating season, so any moisture under there will dry out.

Or, is there a dishwasher in that cabinet line up? Pulling that (fairly easy to do) may give you helpful "no patching required" access.

Paul

 

[tomtheelder2020]

I drilled a 1-7/8 hole at the front of the cabinet bottom and twelve 1/2" holes along the back. My wife's hair dryer just fits the front hole. Drying underway.

 

[PJB12]

To quickly seal the holes when you're done (if you don't mind the appearance & hump), Plastic Panel Snap In Covers come in many sizes and colors. McMaster-Carr, Rockler & Woodcraft are good sources.

Electrical knock-out seals are another option, but the 1/2" holes will have to be drilled to 7/8" for a 1/2" snap-in to fit. Hoffman style can be glued down, ignoring the stud and wing screw.

 

[tomtheelder2020]

To quickly seal the holes when you're done ...

Thanks for the tips - I will look into those products. However, with 1/2" holes in 3/4 ply, I think I can just putty knife in some bondo. For the 2" hole I plan to fix it like a drywall hole: a small stick attached with screws from above will support the plug I removed while 5-minute epoxy hardens.

Hmm... maybe I have an epoxy fetish. It seems to be my go-to repair options for almost anything.