Voltage reduction?
- Thread starter Raindem
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
He said the 3 cables are intertwined and have to be pulled out together. Besides, if there was enough damage to sever the common I'd want to be sure the hot cables are not also damaged.
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I don't know if it's code here but it certainly makes sense.
nealtw
Contractor retired
If all three were pulled together, why was one two short. Something mickey mouse, the one cable was likely damaged by the installer, I would pull them all and inspect them if the other two have no damage pull them back in.
That's a good question. How does a complete break occur inside a conduit?
I agree Neal. I think something happened upon installation to damage or shorten the life of this wire. The splice bought us a few years maybe, but premature failure was always in the cards.
I agree Neal. I think something happened upon installation to damage or shorten the life of this wire. The splice bought us a few years maybe, but premature failure was always in the cards.
nealtw
Contractor retired
It won't be a complete break but who knows what you will find, like more splices
nealtw
Contractor retired
Your 120 volt can't work with out neutral, something is hooked up somewhere.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Joe said that would be at the main, have you looked for a connection elsewhere.
nealtw
Contractor retired
So if Joe is correct and it should not be tied to the ground at the shop, perhaps you never had a neutral.
Sorry, maybe I'm calling things by the wrong name. The sub-panel is at the workshop. The only cables going from there to the main panel at the house are the 2 black and 1 white. The main panel and the sub-panel each have their own grounding stake driven into the ground. (The 1st electrician didn't even check the grounding stake)
nealtw
Contractor retired
So in the shop all the bear wires go to ground and all the white wire go to neutral. Unless the two are connected at the shop somewhere then then the neutral cable is still working somewhat.
That is correct. But "somewhat" is the operative word here. The lights and coffee maker work. But anything with a heavy draw won't get enough juice.
It can work but not properly by feeding through the other hot. The loads are in series and if they are balanced you won't see a problem. If the loads are unbalanced one will see high voltage and the other will see low voltage.
I'm a little rusty on my code on this, but because the workshop is a separate building, and only 240 with a neutral are feeding it, then shouldn't the sub panel's neutral and grounding blocks be bonded (and a ground rod driven)? I thought the detached building scenario was the exception for sub panels to be bonded. Correct me if I'm wrong.
That was the old rule. If it was existing before the rule change then it is good. Current code requires 4 wire feed.
Upon further consultation with the builder and electrician we now believe that the lines are direct buried. That would at least make it easier to explain the damage. So now I'm going to get estimates for the repair. I'm considering 2 approaches:
1. Leave the old cables alone. Dig a new trench and install a new neutral wire in conduit.
2. Dig up all the cables. Install original black wires (if reusable) and new neutral wire through conduit.
The length is going to be around 150' ft. Labor rate in this area is $75/hr. For comparison sake, what do you think the 2 different options should cost?
1. Leave the old cables alone. Dig a new trench and install a new neutral wire in conduit.
2. Dig up all the cables. Install original black wires (if reusable) and new neutral wire through conduit.
The length is going to be around 150' ft. Labor rate in this area is $75/hr. For comparison sake, what do you think the 2 different options should cost?
