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And now we have given Target the building plans from the Village office?


https://www.wowktv.com/news/west-vi...ved-from-village-archives-on-loan-to-company/
It's a step in the process. Generally 2 copies are submitted, both marked with corrections, 1 is retained, subsequent corrected submittals until a final permitted set, 1 retained, by ordinance, by the permitting agency.

The architect and engineering firm will automatically have retained their own doc's, and likely stocking up on depends.
 
Spicoli, I always hate when I see houses built into or on cliffs where they look like a mudslide or erosion could take the house out. It may look neat to outsiders, but I've always thought about how dangerous that would be. It's one thing if you have just a slope that isn't too steep, like with my yard in Virginia. Another when its very steep. It's just asking for trouble to build in places like that. Just like I think it's asinine to build on the beach where a good tidal wave could wipe things out.

Finally heard back from AT&T. They have assigned one specific person to handle stuff for me so I have to work around her work hours. She's not back in the office until tomorrow at 1:30pm.

Mom has an appointment with the diabetes specialist tomorrow so we can find out if she can get updates on any progress on her getting a cgm and possibly insulin pump. My brother needs one of those appointments as well because his blood sugar is messing with his eyes.
 
According to Barboursville Mayor Chris Tatum, Target requested the building plans last Friday. They were removed from the archives and picked up Thursday by Target officials. He says they told city officials they would be making copies of the plans, and then returning them to city hall.

That's a quote from the news article Shan posted. I normally would have assumed that copies were made prior to leaving the building.
 
I'm wanting to rearrange our laundry room configuration. This will include running a new dryer vent line. I have been looking at this "Dryer Wall Vent" brand because it is metal and with the door being able to fully open, would be good for cleaning/checking the duct for lint accumulation.

1708356237871.png
Does anyone have experience with this brand?

Dryer Wall Vent

Also, I'm looking at the code, Alabama Mechanical Code 2021 section 504.4 (Which is identical to IRC 2021 Section M1502.3.) and it says...

504.4 Exhaust Installation

Dryer exhaust ducts for clothes dryers shall terminate on the outside of the building and shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination. Ducts shall not be connected or installed with sheet metal screws or other fasteners that will obstruct the exhaust flow. Clothes dryer exhaust ducts shall not be connected to a vent connector, vent or chimney. Clothes dryer exhaust ducts shall not extend into or through ducts or plenums. Clothes dryer exhaust ducts shall be sealed in accordance with Section 603.9.

Exhaust System Outlets

504.4.1 Termination Location

Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions. Where the manufacturer's instructions do not specify a termination location, the exhaust duct shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings, including openings in ventilated soffits.

504.4.2 Exhaust Termination Outlet and Passageway Size

The passageway of dryer exhaust duct terminals shall be undiminished in size and shall provide an open area of not less than 12.5 square inches (8065 mm2).
Ron Note: 4” dia duct = 12.570” circumference = 12.470 Sq IN.
****************
Given the code, It seems that locating the vent termination under a soffit is okay if there is no soffit vent within 3 feet? Is that that what you would assume?
 
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That's a quote from the news article Shan posted. I normally would have assumed that copies were made prior to leaving the building.
That's a standard process. Each jurisdiction retains their archives, as they choose, and will periodically evolve them to a more volumetric retention method, especially commercial developments.
 
Spicoli, I always hate when I see houses built into or on cliffs where they look like a mudslide or erosion could take the house out. It may look neat to outsiders, but I've always thought about how dangerous that would be. It's one thing if you have just a slope that isn't too steep, like with my yard in Virginia. Another when its very steep. It's just asking for trouble to build in places like that. Just like I think it's asinine to build on the beach where a good tidal wave could wipe things out.
Yeah, a Tsunami could wipe out coastal homes, and there is warning signs / evacuation routes in Oregon and Washington. Never been to the California coast, but they probably have them as well...

At one time when interest rates were normal, I was thinking of moving to the Oregon Coast, lots of land was available to build on, but I don't think I could afford the extra insurance if I was real close, and lots of people on forums said to stay out of the Tsunami zone for financial and disaster reasons, but I only pay attention to the financial reasons.

If the Volcano in Wyoming explodes, it will affect most of the Country anyway.

https://www.tsunami.gov/
 
Just to jump off od @Ron Van post.....

I have a question. I want to move my washer and dryer to another wall. The problem is that I don't have 4" to run a 4" duct from back up dryer up to front of dryer. I have enough room to reduce to 3" the length of the dryer and then go into 4" from the front side of dryer to outside of house. The vent house comes out of the back of my dryer.

How dangerous is it to only have 3" for 30ish inches and then expand it back to 4"?
 
Just to jump off od @Ron Van post.....

I have a question. I want to move my washer and dryer to another wall. The problem is that I don't have 4" to run a 4" duct from back up dryer up to front of dryer. I have enough room to reduce to 3" the length of the dryer and then go into 4" from the front side of dryer to outside of house. The vent house comes out of the back of my dryer.

How dangerous is it to only have 3" for 30ish inches and then expand it back to 4"?
You'd be causing a bottleneck. I would avoid it.
 
Just to jump off od @Ron Van post.....

I have a question. I want to move my washer and dryer to another wall. The problem is that I don't have 4" to run a 4" duct from back up dryer up to front of dryer. I have enough room to reduce to 3" the length of the dryer and then go into 4" from the front side of dryer to outside of house. The vent house comes out of the back of my dryer.

How dangerous is it to only have 3" for 30ish inches and then expand it back to 4"?
In 1 instance, in remote and not often serviced area, with similar space constraints, I used transition and a section of rectangular duct. While not being ideal and requiring being cleaned more often, it satisfied the occupant.
 
I'm wanting to rearrange our laundry room configuration. This will include running a new dryer vent line. I have been looking at this "Dryer Wall Vent" brand because it is metal and with the door being able to fully open, would be good for cleaning/checking the duct for lint accumulation.

View attachment 32300
Does anyone have experience with this brand?

Dryer Wall Vent

Also, I'm looking at the code, Alabama Mechanical Code 2021 section 504.4 (Which is identical to IRC 2021 Section M1502.3.) and it says...

504.4 Exhaust Installation

Dryer exhaust ducts for clothes dryers shall terminate on the outside of the building and shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination. Ducts shall not be connected or installed with sheet metal screws or other fasteners that will obstruct the exhaust flow. Clothes dryer exhaust ducts shall not be connected to a vent connector, vent or chimney. Clothes dryer exhaust ducts shall not extend into or through ducts or plenums. Clothes dryer exhaust ducts shall be sealed in accordance with Section 603.9.

Exhaust System Outlets

504.4.1 Termination Location

Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions. Where the manufacturer's instructions do not specify a termination location, the exhaust duct shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings, including openings in ventilated soffits.

504.4.2 Exhaust Termination Outlet and Passageway Size

The passageway of dryer exhaust duct terminals shall be undiminished in size and shall provide an open area of not less than 12.5 square inches (8065 mm2).
Ron Note: 4” dia duct = 12.570” circumference = 12.470 Sq IN.
****************
Given the code, It seems that locating the vent termination under a soffit is okay if there is no soffit vent within 3 feet? Is that that what you would assume?
Another thing to keep in mind are the fittings and their type, because each can shorten the efficient length of the duct.
 
I don't have 4" to run a 4" duct from back up dryer up to front of dryer. I have enough room to reduce to 3" the length of the dryer and then go into 4" from the front side of dryer to outside of house.
Shan, I’m having a hard time visualizing what you’re saying…Ate you going into a 2x4” wall behind the dryer? There would be a 3 1/2” cavity in a 2x4 wall. I’ve heard a lot of people talk about “ovaling” a 4” duct to fit in a 3 1/2” cavity. I don’t know if that’s quite kosher with code because code says you can’t deform the duct. I’m not clear if “Ovaling” is deforming the duct or if they mean denting, bending or restricting the duct. Anyway, I’m going to add a 2x2 furring strip to the studs in my wall and re-Sheetrock the wall making it bigger than a 2x6 wall. A 4” duct will then easily fit inside. A 1x2 furring strip would also work. I’m going to do the whole wall but you could just bump out one 16” bay for the duct. Take a look at a vent box like this …

1708369637317.png
The Dryer box makes more room for the transition hose (from dryer to wall) and helps eliminate kinks. It also eliminates 1 elbow.

They make dryer boxes for 2x4 or 2x6” walls. The 2x4” wall version has an oval shaped hole in the top of it so you can fit a 4” duct that has been ovaled into it. They supply a 4” oval to 4” round adaptor will those models.

The vent house comes out of the back of my dryer.

How dangerous is it to only have 3" for 30ish inches and then expand it back to 4"?
You really shouldn’t even consider the 3” option. It’s against code and will greatly reduce the efficiency of your dryer. It also could be a safety hazard.
 
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