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With beer brands going woke I have switched to Yuengling. I hope it was a safe move.

Woke seems to mean anything the speaker wants it to mean. Either that or it's being misused by illiterate but normal people just because others are using it (trying to be uniform). I used it because my first beer switch was to Miller High Life but a blog said Miller is going woke.
 
The Concorde never recovered its development costs and operational costs were so high that it was predicted that it could never turn a profit so it was dumped.
 
Boudin balls will certainly not go in my mouth!
 
Eddie_T said:
With beer brands going woke I have switched to Yuengling. I hope it was a safe move.

Woke seems to mean anything the speaker wants it to mean. Either that or it's being misused by illiterate but normal people just because others are using it (trying to be uniform). I used it because my first beer switch was to Miller High Life but a blog said Miller is going woke.
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Miller / Coors was woke before that was a term. That said, Yuengling contracted with Miller to produce the beer in Texas...

I would like to try Yuengling, but that's probably 1400 miles minimum.

None in the State, but it's in Rhode Island... You can fit more than 95 Rhode Islands in Montana, but they have the Beer.

Makes ZERO sense.

Time to attack Rhode Island and take the Beer, should take 25 minutes.
 
Ron Van said:
Question: this Delta 500 acrylic shower pan I’m installing is made to pair with the Delta surround walls. Or you can use tile like I am. The problem is that Delta put a hook at the top of the flange to seal with the Delta walls.


The Delta walls will fit over the hook on the lip to seal water out but when you use cement board like I will, they say to put the cement board on top of the flange and then run the tile all the way down to the pan like this.



That’s ok since if the cement board contacts water, the water can wick up the center of the board and cause problems. My issue is the the tile that extends below the cement board will be hard to grout it seems since there won’t be anything behind it.

I guess I could use chalk instead of grout at the bottom 3/4” or does anyone have a different idea?
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I'm no expert but I have been checking a lot of similar things for my bathroom remodel, so here's some of my accumulated knowledge. Anyone else please chime in if I say any nonsense.

The cement board could go on top of the flange and you can seal the gap with caulk before applying the waterproofing. This makes it a continuous water proof membrane that ought to prevent water from ever even getting to the cement board. If you are using 1/2" cement board and depending on the size of the hook, you could make a cut on the bottom of the cement similar to that in a rabbet joint so that it slides a bit further down and over the hook. In my case, I went with the first case but, since I had a cast iron bathtub, if cut the rabbet only at the places where the board went over the screws so that it could reach closer to the bathtub while minimizing the bulge because of the screws.

By way way, when you put the tile, just leave the gap behind at the bottom and don't put mortar on the tile in this part. The gap prevents water from getting wicked upward through capillary pressure.

And, as far as I know, you *really* don't want grout at the bottom, especially with an acrylic shower pan (or bathtub). They flex slightly with load due to our weight, or filling up with water in the case of a bathtub, and you want to use silicone there because of its flexibility. For the same reason, the tile should not be touching the pan or it will squeak as the pan rubs against the tile with movement.
 
So, boudin balls are basically like a boudin link bout rolled into a ball shape and deep fried
https://www.thekitchn.com/boudin-balls-recipe-234811601690971163928.png
It's got sort of "dirty rice" (rice with meat and seasonings) inside. Has chicken livers, pork meat, rice, cajun seasonings, etc. At the place where I get them you can have liquid cheese (can't remember what its called) poured over. Sadly, the spices don't agree with my system. I've never done a deep dive into what is in boudin, but its the same stuff in the boudin balls. For some reason they pronounce it like boo dan.

ekrig, I put my cement board over the flange, however, I doubt rabbeting would work. It's got like chunks of rock with fiberglass fibers inside and will likely only crumble and come apart Ron tried. It's all crumbly inside the paper sandwiching it together. Once the paper is removed it doesn't bond together as well. With mine, I didn't think to caulk behind where it touched the flange, but I ran a continuous piece of plastic vapor barrier from up above it down overhanging the flange. This kept it from touching wooden studs.
This picture shows where I put up the vapor barrier over the wood and used Gorilla waterproof tape to hold it on. Once all of the boards were secured I trimmed the plastic at the bottom.
1690971620844.png
Keep in mind I was doing a thin glue-up surround though. If one is doing tile they generally recommend you try to get the front of the cementboard flush with the flange with a 1/4" gap between the bottom of the cementboard and the top of the flange. Then tile is extended down to the tub with a very slight gap and some caulk is used in the gap instead of grout.

My guts did not react well to eating the stew because it had onions. Really hit me and I didn't make it to the toilet in time & made a huge mess. Had to wash my shoes off in the shower, jump into the shower and wash off, and then clean up the floor and anything else that got splattered. That was not fun. I know, TMI. But ugh. Pepto is my friend. Now my shoes (fortunately not my "good" ones) are drying in the tub. Still need to take a full shower later, but want to get my guts settled more. And my bathroom slippers disappeared so I need to figure out where they went.

I hope @Flyover is OK.
 
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havasu said:
Ron, I did the same thing, but damn if I didn't add the studs in the wrong direction! I assumed the glass guy was going to the center of the curb, but for some stupid reason, he went to the inside, and it was too late before I noticed it!
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Based on what you said, I installed extra wide door supports on the wall I just built and I’ll probably make the other side wider too.

IMG_5455.jpeg
 
Eddie_T said:
Oh, I thought maybe a boudin was some kind of swamp creature.

Boudin in French is black pudding which I believe is blood pudding (sometimes called blood sausage). I don't think markets sell blood in the US so it must be something else that I wouldn't eat.
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I have a friend that makes blood sausage every year. I'm not sure where he gets the blood though. I'm guessing the local butcher shop or maybe the slaughter house south of here.
 
Sun came up and Pepto kicked in enough that I was able to haul out six contractor trash bags that were full. I'd asked my brother to do it (had set them up so he could haul them out) but he refused. They kept getting in the way so I decided it was best to haul them out before it gets too hot. I also took a 7th bag out of the trash can since it was mostly full. I put more stuff in it after it was out of the can-- otherwise it overflows or is too difficult to get out of the can. Anytime my brother actually bothers to take any trash out, he dumps it in a pile next to the porch instead of taking it out to the burn pile. Those bags have mostly been ripped open and are too difficult to move now. I'll have to put on some gloves and get some sort of shovel and a wheelbarrow to haul that trash to the burn pile. But I did haul out all 6 of the other bags to the burn pile. Some of them were pretty damn heavy so my arms hate me. Swept up the hallway, organized kitty bowls and fed the kitties, refilled water, etc. Got overheated so I'm cooling off.

I want to paint the front door sometime this week. I'll clean the door and the casing off, sand it, clean again, tape off stuff I don't want painted, prime it, wait for it to dry, then paint. Mom wants the casing and the door to be blue. I think I'll paint the jambs white. Need to figure out how to keep paint off the carpet bc the door already drags on the carpet and it will be hard to get something underneath. Maybe posterboard or something. Carpet is pretty much ruined anyway, but I'd rather not get paint on it. Probably won't do it today since Mom has a doctor's appointment in the afternoon.

Gonna nap for a bit then take a nice long shower.
 
ekrig said:
By the way, as anyone heard from @Flyover? It seems to have been a while since I've seen a post from him.
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Flyover's been gone around 5 weeks, RNG almost 4 weeks. Maybe Flyover is on vacation and didn't take us with him like Havasu did.
 
I rented a model condo for a month on St. Simon's Island, GA and it was furnished with cardboard furniture. Some cardboard (the slick finish stuff) is tougher than the large box type. In specific a whey protein box is quite sturdy and was about the right size for a prototype squatty potty for the bathroom. I cut it to the right height and it worked out well. I later reinforced it by lining it with pieces cut from boxes that cat litter came in and the corners with card board angle iron. In fact it worked out so well that I sprayed it matte black and it's still in use years later. I guess it will never be replaced by wood.

I put drawers on the shelves of my kitchen pantry. For the top two shelves drawers wouldn't work so I used shallow sturdy slick finish boxes to put stuff in for those shelves. Mostly light weight stuff like crackers, cookies and such. I found some neat shallow boxes when I was a member at Sam's Club.


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I found this pickup on FB Marketplace for $5K . It has a 454 engine supposedly with 10K miles but I am a bit afraid of transplants.

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Be careful. There are currently a lot of scammers hovering on FB Marketplace. Do your homework, demand to see this in person, check title and confirm who the rightful owner is. Many take stock pics found on the internet, tell you that unless you provide a small down payment to hold it, or they will sell it out from under you. All red flags.
 
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