Is there an easy way to do this without making it into a giant project? I don't want to drill holes in the structural beam. It seems that liquid nails wouldn't provide much of a fire rating. There are people online who use a variety of methods, including constructing their own U-channel to...
I could see throwing some DW compound up there and going over the existing molding with a drywall knife to recreate the pattern... you've got nothing to lose except a bit of time and a bit of compound. If you seal it and paint it, the moisture won't be an issue. Plastic wood or a wood filler...
My house (1940s) is brick on frame in Pennsylvania and has a small concrete porch that partially overlaps the ceiling of the one car garage. There are pavers on the back slab porch that have been trapping moisture against the old brick and river sand mortar; I am removing the pavers so that the...
My hand rail is secured to the plaster on the edge of my staircase at two points; As the staircase rises from floor 1 to floor 2, the metal railing screws into the ceiling of the first floor. The ceiling is plaster on metal lathe. At site one, the plaster where the old screw entered the...
My shutters are screwed into wooden slats (circa 1945) that are the width of a mortar joint and 2-3" wide.
I suppose that the right answer is to hang new shutters via spikes into anchors that I place in the brick.
What should I do with the pieces of wood? Just pull them out and patch with mortar?
This is how my high efficiency furnace was installed... the combustion air intake is on the left side and is using room air. The exhaust pipe travels a circuitous route to the wall. Water often accumulates on the top of the furnace at the origin of the PVC pipe vent, even though it seems to be...
How should I properly seal the refrigerant lines? It is at ground level. Do I need to wrap anything around the foam insulation on the refrigerant line? Should I just use spray foam? Or Should I use spray foam but place a 1" concrete plug over the end?
I am concerned that a piece of the wood on my front door's frame is in contact with the concrete pad of the porch. It was constructed before 2004 and I'm confident that it wasn't pressure treated. Would it last longer if I cut it off at the level of the concrete to stop it from wicking...
True, but it is a bit late for that now. What do you recommend? Can I raise the drain pipe? Would a drain pipe at the same level of the stub outs violate code? Thanks
Do I move the drain or cut out a lot of the cabinet? As you can see, the crossbar aligns with the drain pipe. Should I move it down so that I don't need to alter the cabinet at all? Otherwise I'd need to expand the U cutout in the shelf, cut the crossbar and then add a sister the crossbar...