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You can't drill out that hole as it is the seat where the washer goes against to shut off the water. Friction loss of pressure in a plumbing line has a couple of factors which cause it to vary. The first is the length of the run and the second is the diameter of the line and its relation to...

The cost of doing business as a legitimate plumbing company is higher than many imagine and our rates whether T&M or, Flat Rate must cover those costs or, we won't be there next time you call. It's that simple! What company can exist losing money on every job? I can sit home and do nothing and...

I'd suspect the shower arm is leaking spraying water upwards... You'd have to look to be sure...

This parts diagram should help... http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler.com/ServicePartsPage.aspx?DocumentID=b6a34e34d56944a2b010ceb81dff3292&ModelID=4585a0cddd7949ce8a80e8a169c87c67

You would have to trace the pipe to see where it goes and what it does vent. Hard to say without seeing it but it may not even vent something on the floor of the house you are thinking about...

I'm not holding my breath to see them either... Talk is cheap and this guy doesn't add up to half a penny... It looks good from my house too... Well they had a leak and rather than fix the leak they made a rather complex system of reservoirs that caught the water and drained into each...

Plumbing is Serious Business... And we should always remember that the Plumbing Code is the "Minimum Standard" When work does not meet code there can be serious health and safety threats... So if I go off on someone about what they are telling someone to do not meeting code that's just too...

Yes, it sounds like a clog or, wherever it goes is unable to handle the discharge... Where does it go? A Sewer... A Septic... A Drywell... What diameter is the line?

You may have scrubbed through the glaze with all those abrasive cleaners...

Yes, it is normal. Any fixture in the basement requires a vent and a vent between floors cannot have waste running through it.

The washer drain needs to be 2" and not 1 1/2"... Does the old garage floor drain go to a sanitary sewer? Or, is it a storm drain? Does your plan include a trap? What are your plans for venting? Seriously, it sounds like you are over your head and no I didn't read your whole long post....

Go ahead post pictures of your fine work that you are so proud of... :hide: Seriously! Put Up Or, Shut Up! :rolleyes: At least buy my book and read it! But seriously I'd like to see pictures of your fine work.... Come on now... Put Up or, Shut Up!

....Continued from above You may just be: Breathing Sewer Gases... Washing your dishes with grey water in the dishwasher... installing a cross connection which endangers your water supply and your neighbors water supply as well... Installing pipes which will cause corrosion in...

Many things will continue to work even if they aren't done right... Here is some stuff that worked great... :rofl: continued...

That would depend on the total length of the horizontal arm before it reaches the vent. Is it 50" plus the old distance which is? Or, 50" closer to the vent?

Yes, Water Heaters can go off and launch. The T&P is the 3rd in line safety device the first 2 are the Thermostat and the ECO. After that your water heater is trying to become a steam boiler and that won't work well especially without a relief valve.... You may be able to replace the T&P but...

The tub/shower is 1 1/2" and the stand alone shower is 2".

When you go to recaulk the tub fill it with water then use Polyseamseal or, Phenoseal, allow 24 hours to dry then empty the tub.

Install a Laing Autocirc at the last fixture on the line. And insulate the pipes.

Oh Boy! Put up some pictures of your work... I'd like to see how a $10/hr Smockman told you to do things... :rolleyes: I could use a good laugh...