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The gaps in the T1-11 are 1.5" wide and 3/8" deep, on 9" centers. A few tubes of caulk should fill them pretty well. In principle, I can do some of that caulking witht the non-paintable caulk just before mounting the PVC trim, so I can just press the PVC trim onto that caulk in the T1-11 gaps. I...

I've never seen the wall get wet, even in a hard rain, BUT, the point about pressure washing is a very good one. If water does get into the gaps and gets trapped there, it'll take a long time to evaporate and would probably dribble through the wall. So how do you suggest I fill the gaps? I could...

Well, as I said, there is 18" wide fascia keeping the rainfall off of the T1-11 siding, so there is no water coming down face of it. Ever. The siding is ALWAYS dry. So unless the flood gets deeper than the PVC trim is high (5 inches), no water will ever get in the T1-11 siding gaps. Just no way...

I agree but, like I say, the siding has been touching the concrete for at least 40 years, and the siding is in fine shape. The water only gets up to less than half an inch below the siding once every few years, and the flooding itself happens maybe once a decade, so the concrete under the siding...

Not sure why I have to fill grooves in the T1-11. The T1-11 is going to be firmly behind the PVC, and as long as the water doesn't get any higher than 5 inches, it won't drip into the grooves. There is substantial fascia overhead, so no rain is coming down on the wall itself. As I said, if you...

Well, that's what Sparky617 is proposing. Essentially installing PVC flashing, and sealing it to the concrete with caulk. Still not sure why I need to cut back the T1-11. If it's behind the flashing it's not going to be exposed to any liquid water. Though yes, to the extent the concrete can get...

Ah, it's the caulk that doesn't take paint? No sweat. I can have a bead at the bottom with a different color. Now, I have to assume that the underlying studs behind the trim are contacting the concrete as well, and I'm sure not going to saw them off. So I guess I have to wonder why I should...

Thank you. That's a very sensible solution. Should I affix the trim board to the siding with screws, or just epoxy it on? Probably no need to slice off the siding. Doesn't matter much what happens to the bottom it where it contacts the concrete and ideally it will stay mostly dry anyway. You're...

OK here's a tricky planning problem. I have a converted garage where the outside wooden wall drops down to contact the driveway. The driveway slopes down toward the wall so, in a hard rain, water tends to puddle up against the wall and it leaks through into the interior. Yes, the driveway under...

Atobody filler is an interesting idea and, of course, there are tints made for it. DryDex is fine outside. Specifically approved for that.

That's a fair point about spackle as being largely for interior use, but we just had some work done on fascia on our house, and those pros filled in gaps with regular spackle. Of course, it gets painted over promptly, so it's reasonably well sealed. But that's a good point, that exterior caulk...

I don't think a photo is particularly relevant. The issue is whether spackle HAS to be white, and if it is tintable, how would one do it.

I have a outdoor shed with 2x6 fascia that I think are weather resistant. But they're about 40 years old, and have some splits in them. I'd like to just spackle over those defects, but these boards are unfinished and weathered. and spackle is bright white! Can I get "natural weathered wood"...