Replacing old light switches

I couldnt get a clear picture of all the wires so here is a diagram I created.
This is how it is currently wired. If I connect the new switches without grounds, as the current switch is, none of the switches work.
Someone told me that if there's a red wire that that switch controls an outlet but I'm not sure thats the case (at least not anymore). I've noticed some outlets not working in other rooms as well that are not controlled by switches.
Anyway #1 - I dont know what it controls.
#2 - controls one light
#3 - controls one light

Please help me understand this wiring.

The red wire could be three different things.

Two circuits is one cable

Power to a split outlet, where power to the top or bottom of an outlet is turned on with the switch.

3 way switch,,, two switches to turn on same light. Did one of the old switches have three screws. NO not including the ground

What was the problem with the old switch if anything.

First you have to find witch wire is bringing in power.

Do you have any thing to test for that.

that can't be right.
all switches are being fed by two separate power sources tied together?
ground is not grounded to anything.
and these are not 3-way switches (per your drawing) so the red wires would not be "travelers".
if it was working before you touched it then a simple switch replacement should have not impact on the operational aspect of the circuit.
ligtht switch with or without ground has no impact on the functionality of the switch.

This is how I see it.
There are four romexs in this box.
Seems the second one (from the left) is feeding all the switches and also feeding the black on the first romex (left side). All seem to be single pole switches. All neutrals tied together. All grounds tied together. Romex on far left seems to feed receptacles at other boxes. It could be that the receptacles that the romex is feeding from the left is alternated, one hot all the time the next switched or the receptacles are split receptacles where one part of the receptacle is hot all the time and the other part is switched.

Although all grounds should be connected I don't see a reason why this should not work if they were not connected.

The red jumpers are meaningless as they are just extensions and could have been any color.

Thank you for your replies.

I'll have to start off with an embarrassing mistake I made. When I installed the new switches, they were upside down, so when I thought they were on they were actually switched off. Once I turned them around they appear to work, well #3 at least. I did connect a bare wire to each ground and grounded them to the other grounds as well.

To answer all the questions.
None of the switches had 3 wires and they were working just wanted to change these old outlets that look even worse behind new plates.
And the ground is grounded to the box with a screw in the back that I forgot to illustrate.
I do have a voltmeter but never know what setting to put it on.
However #1 - I tried to find a connected outlet to no avail. I suspect that if I pull out the outlets that one of them will have a red wire going to it, but I dont know what that would mean. #2 controls and entry way light and I just replaced the light. The light wouldn't come on every time and sometimes have to play with the switch for it work and then it only stays on for a few minutes then shuts off. The switch also felt a little loose, so I'll admit that I thought the culprit was a bad switch. However it seems that maybe the light fixture if bad. #3 controls a porch light that is working now.

Maybe someone can help me with this voltometer? It seems I'll need to replace the light to make sure that that is the culprit, but I'm also hoping to find the source of the power and what switch #1 controls. If it no longer controls anything then, I'd prefer just cancel it. Also I have some wiring issue in some bedrooms, so I'm hoping this understanding would help me diagnose those issues as well.

With the meter set on AC 120 volts or above
Black wire goes to ground and find the live wire with the red lead.

ok I did a little testing with the voltmeter. I've gathered that each group of wires must be referred to as a Romex. If we label them from left to right: A, B, C & D. Then the source if from black wire on C. B goes to the entry way light (switch 2) and D goes to patio light (Switch 3).
So that leaves A (switch 1).

These switches are right when you walk in the house into the entry way and living area. Only 4 outlets in this area and they all work rather the switch is up or down. I tried to rewire do that I'm no longer using the switch, but anytime I try rewiring it, most other outlets dont work including ceiling fan and light.

I pulled out one of the outlets that must be somehow connected to this switch. It has 2 wires of each connected to a jumper to the outlet, so I'm guess that the power then goes to a different outlet? Its has (Red, White, Black & ground).

Right now I wired the switch #1 the way it was and all outlets are working as they should.

Look at the outlets that have red and black going to them. there is a little joiner between the screws that have been removed. So half the outlet should work all the time and the other half only works with the switch.
So the red and black wires in the switch box, one should be connected to the live wire and the other to the switch.

The photo is of a switched outlet and should be controled by switch A, on the left.

Snoonyb said:

The photo is of a switched outlet and should be controled by switch A, on the left.

Click to expand...

The tab between the screws needs to be removed.

nealtw said:

The tab between the screws needs to be removed.

Click to expand...

The top photo is the hot side and the bridge is severed.

Snoonyb said:

The top photo is the hot side and the bridge is severed.

Click to expand...

Take a closer look.

The tab is NOT severed in the photo I am looking at in post #9.
A few other issue that need addressing.
1. The bare exposed wire is too much. The insulation should go tight against the bottom of the receptacle.
2. Back stab connections(the little holes) are a common source of failure. I strongly suggest moving the wires to the screw terminals.
3. Why do you have an aluminum ground when the rest of the wires are copper?

nealtw said:

Take a closer look.

Click to expand...

It appears severed to me, and besides which, from post #7;"Right now I wired the switch #1 the way it was and all outlets are working as they should."

Snoonyb said:

It appears severed to me, and besides which, from post #7;"Right now I wired the switch #1 the way it was and all outlets are working as they should."

Click to expand...

Yeah, both tabs look the same to me, so we can agree to disagree, I guess.

Hopefully the OP comes back and tells us.

I am not seeing a severed tab either...

Back stabbing as it is called is always a source for failure..and fires..
I also agree with what was said, Just switch to the screw tabs and be done.

We also see aluminum ground wire, newer wire will be copper, if you find them in the same box, they should not be twisted together they would be better screwed to the box separately.

nealtw said:

Yeah, both tabs look the same to me, so we can agree to disagree, I guess.

Hopefully the OP comes back and tells us.

Click to expand...

Agreed. Aluminum was used in some romex as a grnd. conductor as a definer, for a while, as I remember.