Adding drywall in garage

Discussion in 'Walls and Ceilings' started by goose25, Dec 13, 2016.

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  1. Dec 13, 2016 #1

    goose25

    goose25

    goose25

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    Hi all,
    With it being winter and hunting season coming to a close, I figured I could start up my garage project again.
    I have 8' ceilings currently only with 2x6 rafter ties 48" OC. My plan is to run joists to support the dry wall. But I have a couple questions.
    I'm going to have to sister the boards because 1. I can haul 24' boards 2. That would be a pain to get them up there.

    Can I run 6 joists (splitting the rafter ties) essentially putting them 24" OC? The only load will be drywall.

    Or do I need to run 12 joists and leave the rafter ties to do there only job?
     
  2. Dec 13, 2016 #2

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    If you are going to drywall the ties as ceiling, that should be fine. 24 ft would be over spanned for most lumber anyway and you would add wood to hang the weight from the rafters. Are you insulating too?
     
  3. Dec 13, 2016 #3

    Snoonyb

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    2X6 DF #2 as a ceiling joist will span about 15'.

    You can 2X4 cleat from the CJ to the rafters to achieve the span. With that in mind, add a CJ for each rafter.

    To make it a little easier to fit the new CJ's, 2-3/8" is considered full bearing.
     
  4. Dec 13, 2016 #4

    goose25

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    Neal, there will not be any insulation above the drywall. The rafters are insulated. I know I will still lose my heat without it insulation but it will help keep the heat down in the work area a little bit better.

    Snoon, the CJ's will be cleated to the rafter overhead. So just to clarify I should run a CJ at every rafter and leave the rafter ties to do there own thing?
     
  5. Dec 13, 2016 #5

    Snoonyb

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    By adding a CJ next to each rafter, if they are attached to the rafters with 5 16D's each end, they become rafter ties or the bottom member of what is termed as the 3rd member of a carpenters truss, two opposing rafters and the tie.

    Cleating them to the rafters bring the span into compliance.
     
  6. Dec 13, 2016 #6

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Now I am getting confused, just to be clear a collar tie is in the top 1/3 of the attic space.
    A ceiling joist or rafter tie is in the bottom 1/3 of the attic space.
    It is the lower rafter tie that stops the walls from splaying out.
     
  7. Dec 13, 2016 #7

    goose25

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    Just so I understand correctly and from what I have read. The CJ's that I'm going to put up will be tied into the top plate and then cleated on the rafters in 2 locations. ( following the way the existing rafter ties are done).
    But I do not tie the ceiling joists into the end of the rafter by the soffit correct?
     
  8. Dec 13, 2016 #8

    Snoonyb

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    They are tied too both the rafter and the top plate exactly like the existing rafter ties are. Then cleated to the rafters at 2 point along their run so that the CJ are not over spanned.
     
  9. Dec 13, 2016 #9

    joecaption

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    A picture would sure help to clear up what you have exactly.
    It would be interesting to know your location, and more info on how those rafters where insulated exactly.
    Done wrong it can cause more damage than good.
     
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  10. Dec 13, 2016 #10

    goose25

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    I don't have any good pictures my phone and I won't be home anytime in the near future. The one posted is the best I've got.
    The insulation is done the same as you would do a cathedral ceiling. Baffles run from the soffit to the 1 inch short of the ridge board. You can kind of make out the rafter ties and see that they are spaced 48" apart.

    I understand was snoon is saying, I was just getting clarification on where to tie in at.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Dec 13, 2016 #11

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Adding ceiling joist to make them 24" on center to match what you have now will work, the strongest area of the roof will be the peak so you could add a 2x4 to the center between the joist and close to the peak or every 8 ft and angle them up to close to the peak. In order for the peak to sag the walls have to bend out and your ceiling joists stop that.
    with 24" OC you will want to use 5/8 drywall which is also good for fire rating.
    Later you may decide to move the insulation to the ceiling.
    I would add hurricane hangers, just because they are cheap and easy and then you know you have a good joint at the wall.
    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZuMmzysyAI[/ame]
     
  12. Dec 14, 2016 #12

    goose25

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    Thanks for the advice folks, I'll be back home in a couple weeks. I'll post pictures as I go. Hoping to knock it all out in 5 days with the help of my brother for lifting purposes. For sure going to rent a drywall lift to ease the process. Then I'll move onto the walls. Still need to insulate the overhead door as well.

    Would you go with the pre made kit. Or just cut 2.5" r10 foam boards to size?
     
  13. Dec 14, 2016 #13

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    You may want to check the weight added to the door, may require up sizing springs
     
  14. Dec 15, 2016 #14

    goose25

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    I will check into that. Good to know. Something I wouldn't have thought of doing.
     

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