Basement Framing for HVAC
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Help Support House Repair Talk:
nealtw
Contractor retired
I might have picked that up from another thread.
nealtw
Contractor retired
So if the return air is closest to the staircase wall, that all gets easy.
KULTULZ
JACK of All Trades ~ MASTER of NONE
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Is this a fairly new requirement in all or just scattered locations? I suppose it has to be fire rated- 5/8" Type X?
What if a basement remodel called for a partially closed ceiling and a suspended ceiling over mechanical areas?
nealtw
Contractor retired
Is this a fairly new requirement in all or just scattered locations? I suppose it has to be fire rated- 5/8" Type X?
What if a basement remodel called for a partially closed ceiling and a suspended ceiling over mechanical areas?
It's a great idea for unfinished basement with furnace who knows what people store down there.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Good plan, how much room between duct and wall in the media room?
About 17 and 1/4 inches. I wanted to do 2" rigid Insulation then 2x4 framing. Can I still do that behind toilet?
nealtw
Contractor retired
So all the stuff I can think of to work into the plan of action.
1. beside the stairs the return air drops can be run out the side of the duct and into that wall 3 1/2 x 10 for family room , oval under top of stairs to extra room. Can be capped for future use.
2. bedroom oval can be cut in to run down in the first wall between the bedroom and the hallway by the stairs.
3. media room, I think the holes for the return can go on the side of the duct and down the wall
4. as you may not have room to work on the wall behind the air ducts in the media room, the drop to hide the ducts may have to be built before the wall, Just in the media room.
5. The plan shows ceiling lights in family room, bedroom, bathroom, and you will want one in the extra room and the hallway by the stairs.
What if anything is there now, what are you planning on doing. is the insulation above the drywall, that would make it harder but not impossible to run wires.
6. Did they make allowance for the bathroom fan? Look on the outside for the best place to take it out. It will want to go up into the floor joists and out.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
8 House planners use a program that places toilets and showers x" from outside of the wall and that does not allow for the wall you are going to build inside.
Builders tell the plumber what he would build to finish the walls and places the pipes to fit that. So there is a good chance the measurements from the wall and each other are screwed up.
9. Some plumbers install the trap for the shower and bring that pipe up and cap it.
Some plumbers place foam around the pipe so the surface of the concrete can be chipped way so the trap can be added.
Some plumbers just bring the pipe up, they carry a jack hammer and plan to use it.
1. beside the stairs the return air drops can be run out the side of the duct and into that wall 3 1/2 x 10 for family room , oval under top of stairs to extra room. Can be capped for future use.
2. bedroom oval can be cut in to run down in the first wall between the bedroom and the hallway by the stairs.
3. media room, I think the holes for the return can go on the side of the duct and down the wall
4. as you may not have room to work on the wall behind the air ducts in the media room, the drop to hide the ducts may have to be built before the wall, Just in the media room.
5. The plan shows ceiling lights in family room, bedroom, bathroom, and you will want one in the extra room and the hallway by the stairs.
What if anything is there now, what are you planning on doing. is the insulation above the drywall, that would make it harder but not impossible to run wires.
6. Did they make allowance for the bathroom fan? Look on the outside for the best place to take it out. It will want to go up into the floor joists and out.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
8 House planners use a program that places toilets and showers x" from outside of the wall and that does not allow for the wall you are going to build inside.
Builders tell the plumber what he would build to finish the walls and places the pipes to fit that. So there is a good chance the measurements from the wall and each other are screwed up.
9. Some plumbers install the trap for the shower and bring that pipe up and cap it.
Some plumbers place foam around the pipe so the surface of the concrete can be chipped way so the trap can be added.
Some plumbers just bring the pipe up, they carry a jack hammer and plan to use it.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I have noticed on a couple occasions that Home Depot Canada carries some different products than HD-US. I pasted the name Blue Skin into my Home Depot site and got no exact match.....just sayin'
nealtw
Contractor retired
It is a trade name, they use the same product for windows, they do carry the wide stuff and Henry makes all sizes.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-WP200-Waterproof-Membrane-HEWP200937/202091036
Or this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grace-Vy...Roll-Fully-Adhered-Flashing-5003105/203057405
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1. beside the stairs the return air drops can be run out the side of the duct and into that wall 3 1/2 x 10 for family room , oval under top of stairs to extra room. Can be capped for future use.
The cold air return is already in for the family room right in the framing of the stairs.
2. bedroom oval can be cut in to run down in the first wall between the bedroom and the hallway by the stairs.
Sounds good. so if the duct is 3.5" and my top board of the wall is 3.5" how do I cut the oval? do I need to frame that wall with a 2x6?
3. media room, I think the holes for the return can go on the side of the duct and down the wall
4. as you may not have room to work on the wall behind the air ducts in the media room, the drop to hide the ducts may have to be built before the wall, Just in the media room.
They actually already built the soffit to hide the air ducts. My plan is to build my wall up to the bottom of that soffit. is that ok?
5. The plan shows ceiling lights in family room, bedroom, bathroom, and you will want one in the extra room and the hallway by the stairs.
What if anything is there now, what are you planning on doing. is the insulation above the drywall, that would make it harder but not impossible to run wires.
The bedroom I want to do a regular ceiling light, I used the wrong symbol. Bathroom will have the standard wall vanity light, and ceiling exhaust fan. In the unfinished storage room behind the bathroom, there is one of those ceramic utillity light things in the ceiling now. I think I will want to move the wire and switch during my electric rough in.
6. Did they make allowance for the bathroom fan? Look on the outside for the best place to take it out. It will want to go up into the floor joists and out.
HVAC scares me, and I actually have a quote from an HVAC place which includes the bathroom fan. They want about $1,700 to do the whole thing. 8 supply vents, 3 return vents, and the bathroom fan, all taped and sealed.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
8 House planners use a program that places toilets and showers x" from outside of the wall and that does not allow for the wall you are going to build inside.
Builders tell the plumber what he would build to finish the walls and places the pipes to fit that. So there is a good chance the measurements from the wall and each other are screwed up.
I will contact the plumber that did our house. Our house is only 1 year old, so I still have all their contact info. the HVAC company is the same one that did the initial build a year ago.
9. Some plumbers install the trap for the shower and bring that pipe up and cap it.
Some plumbers place foam around the pipe so the surface of the concrete can be chipped way so the trap can be added.
Some plumbers just bring the pipe up, they carry a jack hammer and plan to use it.
In the bathroom area where the tub would be, there is what looks like an upside down paint tray cemented to the floor, it sticks out of the ground. I think they said they would just cut it out and it would all be ready to go...
The cold air return is already in for the family room right in the framing of the stairs.
2. bedroom oval can be cut in to run down in the first wall between the bedroom and the hallway by the stairs.
Sounds good. so if the duct is 3.5" and my top board of the wall is 3.5" how do I cut the oval? do I need to frame that wall with a 2x6?
3. media room, I think the holes for the return can go on the side of the duct and down the wall
4. as you may not have room to work on the wall behind the air ducts in the media room, the drop to hide the ducts may have to be built before the wall, Just in the media room.
They actually already built the soffit to hide the air ducts. My plan is to build my wall up to the bottom of that soffit. is that ok?
5. The plan shows ceiling lights in family room, bedroom, bathroom, and you will want one in the extra room and the hallway by the stairs.
What if anything is there now, what are you planning on doing. is the insulation above the drywall, that would make it harder but not impossible to run wires.
The bedroom I want to do a regular ceiling light, I used the wrong symbol. Bathroom will have the standard wall vanity light, and ceiling exhaust fan. In the unfinished storage room behind the bathroom, there is one of those ceramic utillity light things in the ceiling now. I think I will want to move the wire and switch during my electric rough in.
6. Did they make allowance for the bathroom fan? Look on the outside for the best place to take it out. It will want to go up into the floor joists and out.
HVAC scares me, and I actually have a quote from an HVAC place which includes the bathroom fan. They want about $1,700 to do the whole thing. 8 supply vents, 3 return vents, and the bathroom fan, all taped and sealed.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
8 House planners use a program that places toilets and showers x" from outside of the wall and that does not allow for the wall you are going to build inside.
Builders tell the plumber what he would build to finish the walls and places the pipes to fit that. So there is a good chance the measurements from the wall and each other are screwed up.
I will contact the plumber that did our house. Our house is only 1 year old, so I still have all their contact info. the HVAC company is the same one that did the initial build a year ago.
9. Some plumbers install the trap for the shower and bring that pipe up and cap it.
Some plumbers place foam around the pipe so the surface of the concrete can be chipped way so the trap can be added.
Some plumbers just bring the pipe up, they carry a jack hammer and plan to use it.
In the bathroom area where the tub would be, there is what looks like an upside down paint tray cemented to the floor, it sticks out of the ground. I think they said they would just cut it out and it would all be ready to go...
Is this a fairly new requirement in all or just scattered locations? I suppose it has to be fire rated- 5/8" Type X?
What if a basement remodel called for a partially closed ceiling and a suspended ceiling over mechanical areas?
Yes, its new for 2015. They said it is because new houses are built with those OSB I beam things, and they burn to fast, so firemen were having problems falling through floors, the sheet rock slows the burn and makes it safer incase of fire. for basement remodels, a lot of times it sounds like the remodelers rip out the dry wall, and start all over again. for me, I am hoping to salvage as much of it as possible for cost savings...
nealtw
Contractor retired
2. if the hole is cut in the duct the wall can be built and the top plates just get cut away to run the duct, or run the duct and stop the wall on each side, drywall hides all.
4. Yes, they really did all the dirty work.
5. You will be removing some drywall for duct work so wiring should be able to be addressed at the same time but some might want to be fished into ceiling and pulled thru top plate as you build the wall.
6 Check with the builder, if I was the builder I would have had the heat runs in and capped near where they are needed, he would have paid extra for that but it would make you job real easy.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
8. It is the measurements I am after, from the center of the toilet to the wall, you may have to adjust the wall plan to fit what they did.
4. Yes, they really did all the dirty work.
5. You will be removing some drywall for duct work so wiring should be able to be addressed at the same time but some might want to be fished into ceiling and pulled thru top plate as you build the wall.
6 Check with the builder, if I was the builder I would have had the heat runs in and capped near where they are needed, he would have paid extra for that but it would make you job real easy.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
8. It is the measurements I am after, from the center of the toilet to the wall, you may have to adjust the wall plan to fit what they did.
2. if the hole is cut in the duct the wall can be built and the top plates just
get cut away to run the duct, or run the duct and stop the wall on each side, drywall hides all.
OH, so it is ok to code to not have a top plate all the way across to accommodate ducts? that answers a BIG question I had
6 Check with the builder, if I was the builder I would have had the heat runs in and capped near where they are needed, he would have paid extra for that but it would make you job real easy.
I will check, but I didn't have the final layout in my head quite yet. Just the bathroom.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
I don't think so. I think one needs to be run.
8. It is the measurements I am after, from the center of the toilet to the wall, you may have to adjust the wall plan to fit what they did.
OH ok, it is 17.5" from the center of the existing pipe, to the cement blocks.
get cut away to run the duct, or run the duct and stop the wall on each side, drywall hides all.
OH, so it is ok to code to not have a top plate all the way across to accommodate ducts? that answers a BIG question I had
6 Check with the builder, if I was the builder I would have had the heat runs in and capped near where they are needed, he would have paid extra for that but it would make you job real easy.
I will check, but I didn't have the final layout in my head quite yet. Just the bathroom.
7. Is there a vent pipe going up the wall and where in the bathroom?
I don't think so. I think one needs to be run.
8. It is the measurements I am after, from the center of the toilet to the wall, you may have to adjust the wall plan to fit what they did.
OH ok, it is 17.5" from the center of the existing pipe, to the cement blocks.
OH, what kind of nails do I need? 3.5" or 2 3/8" for the framing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004R9TX/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004R9TX/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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nealtw
Contractor retired
You have answered most of my questions and for the most part I think your first step is to go ahead with the foam.
You called it a soffet, I call it a drop, most basement have at least one.
Some times we drop the whole bathroom 6 to 8 inches to allow for ducts and exhaust vents and maybe plumbing vents to be run. That might be worth considering.
For better looks and sound in the media room the drops are often matched on both side of the room and some times the family room too.
IF you did that you could run a new trunk line down that side of the house for for heat and or return so little or no ceiling would be removed.
You could also look at return air vent in the wall between the media and mechanical room doing most or all of the duct work in the mechanical room.
Just a few things to think about, but I would plan on the foam for all the outside walls and laying out all the walls on the floor and ceilings and then look at HVAC and wiring before building the walls.
You called it a soffet, I call it a drop, most basement have at least one.
Some times we drop the whole bathroom 6 to 8 inches to allow for ducts and exhaust vents and maybe plumbing vents to be run. That might be worth considering.
For better looks and sound in the media room the drops are often matched on both side of the room and some times the family room too.
IF you did that you could run a new trunk line down that side of the house for for heat and or return so little or no ceiling would be removed.
You could also look at return air vent in the wall between the media and mechanical room doing most or all of the duct work in the mechanical room.
Just a few things to think about, but I would plan on the foam for all the outside walls and laying out all the walls on the floor and ceilings and then look at HVAC and wiring before building the walls.
nealtw
Contractor retired
If that fits your gun, 3" max. One box should be close to what you need.
There are lots of places you are just nailing two boards together, 3" might poke a finger as you hold the lumber, 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 really do a number on that finger.
Add one of these to your tool list
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Estwing-12-in-Pro-Claw-Nail-Puller-PC300G/202033613
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Thanks! I thought about buying the rigid insulation and all the framing wood in a couple weeks (see if I get lucky with a sale). see how far I can get with the insulation in a day... But think if all the stuff is there, I can peck away at it as time allows.
