being limited in knowledge

[cruzn57]

or so my wife says,

enclosing a patio, already 3 sides, so easy to do, ( famous last words!)
need to raise the floor level, about 2 1/4 in,
currently concrete, thinking of 2x6 layed flat, every 12 in, and 5/8 ply over top,
would be close, so what ever I place on top would make it level with the house floor.
question is, how to secure the 2x6 to the concrete,
liquid nails?
nail gun (22 cal)
drill & secure, but don't want protruding bolt heads,
area is 10x12 ft

Thanks

 

[zannej]

Keep in mind that the wood isn't supposed to make direct contact with the concrete. Concrete transfers moisture that can seep into the wood and rot it.

A rough sketch of your plans might help to visualize it. I think that whenever you put wood to concrete you need to use metal anchors-- and again, make sure wood does not touch concrete.

 

[Chris]

Every house on a slab has wood in contact with concrete, here it is treated wood nailed or bolted to the concrete.

I wonder if they make a Simpson tie that bolts to the ground and then you can nail or screw the board to it?

 

[havasu]

I agree with both concerns. I would lay a plastic barrier on the concrete, use Simpson ties with treated lumber, and you have a rot proof flooring.

 

[oldognewtrick]

What about pouring concrete over the existing slab and then having it stained or acid washed?

 

[cruzn57]

I planned to use pressure treated wood for the 2x6,
I could use plastic beneath them, but wouldn't attachment method,
bolts etc, weep moisture thru?
I will google "simpson" ties as thats something new to me,

in the winter, our floors are ice cold, house is concrete slab,, with
tile thru out, (no carpet, no wood, nuthing)

so,,, would elect heat strips beneath what ever I choose for finish on this,
work well?
I expect to use wood/laminate in this room,

View attachment patio sketch 001.jpg

 

[Rusty]

Putting a plastic barrier on the concrete can cause mold growth underneath the plastic.

 

[zannej]

Hmm.. What about Flex Seal? Can he spray the bottom of the boards with flex seal? Or would that be a bad idea?

I think if you use treated lumber and have metal attachments between the wood and the concrete it would work.

I could be totally wrong on this. I have no experience with building a floor like that. I wonder if this would be better suited for flooring forum discussion?

 

[havasu]

If the existing slab is below grade, then yes, you will have moisture penetration. Can you post a pic of your slab from the outside of your room?

 

[cruzn57]

patio is 2 1/4 below house grade.( reason I have to space it up)
but 3in+ above yard level, has concrete walkway between house/patio, and yard,

 

[Chris]

I don't think you will have any issue especially out in the desert where you are. Use pressure treated for anything in contact and the rest will dry in the air gap. Same as any older slab house. New ones they are starting to put plastic under the slab but that is only on new homes. If you are going to cut the 2 by's to fix any slope you had in the concrete I would put the cut side up and not down. I
m sure Simpson makes a bracket for proper mounting.

 

[havasu]

Like this Simpson tie?

View attachment 0a268fc3-bc5b-456e-9312-133c1ba83692_400_compressed.jpg

 

[Chris]

No, they will have something that will bolt to the concrete slab and hold the lumber

 

[cruzn57]

stopped by local true value, and inquired,
they suggested "tapcon" at about every 3 ft,

and some strap looking things to attach intersecting 2x6 ,
basically a 2x4 flat plate with spikes on it, and you nail thru it.

next issue - heated floor?
beneath the sub floor, or just beneath the laminate floor?

 

[zannej]

There are products designed specifically to go right under laminate (and other forms of flooring). I would think that the heat transference might be diminished if you put it under the subfloor. I could be wrong though.
Like this for example: https://www.thermosoft.com/radiant-floor-heat