Covering holes on the wall

[macandal]

This is in a lightwell. There are holes on the walls. There is damage behind the stucco (the framing), these holes were made to make some repairs and to determine the extent of the damage. Here are some pictures of the holes:






I need to cover these holes before it starts raining. My plan is to board the walls and seal them with caulk. So this is what I'm planning to do:

1. Get some plywood.
2. Attach it with screws.
3. Seal it with caulk.

I was given advice on another board and I'm a little confused about some things.

I was told to get three different types of plywood. At different times and by different people that I need pressure treated plywood, or "exterior" rated plywood, or "Marine" plywood. Which is it? Is there a right answer or is this my choice of any of the three? Just so you know, of course this is not the answer to this problem. I just need to cover these holes while this problem is properly addressed. How long will I need these holes covered? It's hard to say, I've had a hard time getting people to come and take a look at this, so I don't know when it will be properly fixed. I'm hoping for summer 2024 but I really don't know.

I am getting galvanized screws since this is outside.

Is my plan of attack correct? What type of plywood do I need?

I would appreciate your help. I'm a newbie at this and I want to avoid paying for this. At least I want to give it a shot myself BEFORE I call an expert.

Thank you.

 

[Snoonyb]

For all of the temp. patches, I would use 1/2" OSB, primed with zinger oil based primer.

For the area under the large glazing, just fit it into the space but long enough to equal the height of the piece under the short window, and with both lapping over the asphalt membrane at least I". Where you are penetrating the asphalt membrane under the large window, use a min. of screws. You can use a painter caulk on all the seams.

For the holes cut the OSB about 2" larger the the holes and with 1 or of 3" screws and some 1x3, cut 2 or 3" longer then the hole, you fashion a clamp which you apply the caulk to the underside of the OSB, before inserting and tightening with the screws.

 

[macandal]

For all of the temp. patches, I would use 1/2" OSB, primed with zinger oil based primer.

For the area under the large glazing, just fit it into the space but long enough to equal the height of the piece under the short window, and with both lapping over the asphalt membrane at least I". Where you are penetrating the asphalt membrane under the large window, use a min. of screws. You can use a painter caulk on all the seams.

For the holes cut the OSB about 2" larger the the holes and with 1 or of 3" screws and some 1x3, cut 2 or 3" longer then the hole, you fashion a clamp which you apply the caulk to the underside of the OSB, before inserting and tightening with the screws.

WHOA!

Well, all the patching work is temporary. The 4 small holes, both holes under the windows, and the main opening below the 4 small holes. Nothing about this is permanent.

The main area that I want to cover is under the 4 small holes you see in the third picture. It is about 10' long and about 18" tall. I was just going to put the plywood over the wall and screw the plywood and the stucco into a stud, then seal it with caulk. What you describe, while it may be better, sounds more complicated. And I should have said that I don't really have many tools. I certainly don't have any electric saws (miter, table, or circular), which what you're suggesting needs.

 

[Snoonyb]

Again, I would use OSB, because it's composition process makes it water resistant, and priming it with zinger oil based primer exacerbates that.

With the dimensions in hand, for the long pieces, Home Desperado will cut them for you.

With projects popping up, as will happen, you mite consider an inexpensive general tool kit.

 

[macandal]

Okay. I went to HomeDepot and bought the plywood, caulk, caulk gun, and screws.

I'm pretty sure I bought these screws:

Tapcon

Now I'm thinking, do I need a special kind of drill bit to drill into stucco? Remember, these screws need to go through the plywood (1/2"), stucco (~3/4"), and into a stud. Do I need something special or no? I have a DeWalt drill and I bought a set of DeWalt drill bits but I don't know if these come with something specific for harder surfaces? Also, do I need to pre-drill?

Thank you.

 

[Snoonyb]

Since you've purchase the tapcons, a masonry bit should be included, and they are driven with a strait screwdriver bit or a hex bit.

As described in post #2, "just fit it into the space", not overlapping the stucco and you simply install the caulking at the joint where the material butts up against the stucco, you see with this method you do not need to drill the stucco, because you use these screws;
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Ri...ed-Exterior-Screws-1-lb-Pack-PTN2S1/100197689
Which can be driven with a #2 Philips or a #2 square drive bit.

 

[macandal]

As described in post #2, "just fit it into the space", not overlapping the stucco and you simply install the caulking at the joint where the material butts up against the stucco, you see with this method you do not need to drill the stucco, because you use these screws;

I understand, but, as I said in my response (post #3) to your post, I only have a hand saw. I don't have any electric saws which this would require, so I need to overlap it. I have no other choice.

 

[Snoonyb]

Actually, you do, but I think you may be a closet DIY'ER who, at times, would rather not.

I have a question: prior to the demo in investigating the leak, was the flat portion, below the wall repair, roofing or stucco?

So you understand this for the perspective of, "a talented laborer", here is how you cover the area in question, without ever needing a skill saw.

So, the measurement, arbitrarily, in the 1st and 2nd photos, from the stucco to overlapping the asphalt membrane by 2", is 14", and the overall length of the Long wall is 10'-5", and each of the return walls are 2'-6".

So, you ask the mill operator, at Home Desperado to mill you 2, 14" X 8' lengths of ply, than you ask the mill operator to mill you, from 1 of those 8' pieces, a 2'-4", and 2ea 2'-5-1/2' pieces.

You see, when you overlap the stucco, you leave a gap at the bottom that wind can get under, creating debris flying away, and when the bottom is screwed tight, a gap requiring additional caulk is need at the top.

 

[PJB12]

If it's not too late:

For the temporary patch, when you put in your temporary board, perhaps a Z-Strip or window & door cap flashing would be a good idea at the top of the patch to keep water out. Tuck the vertical edge under the stocco and push the patch up to the bottom of the Z-Strip.

Since it's temporary, another option would be window flashing tape over the seams to keep wind & water out. A staple gun will help hold it should the adhesive fail. Do the sides first, then the top, horizontal, lapping over the vertical side pieces.

Rope Caulk (Called sometimes Caulk Cord) might be a good product to seal rain & bugs out since it can be peeled off easily when you remove the temporary patch. To install, just press the clay-like material in the gaps. It's a roll of 8 strips that are 1/8" diameter, but cords can be pushed together for a larger diameter rope.

A plug of Duct Seal will also work and is the cheapest option. Get it in the electrical or plumbing aisle for about $2.00 for a 1 pound brick. Smooth the joints with a putty knife lightly coated with naphtha (lighter fluid) or paint thinner. (Or soapy water, but you have to rinse it off before painting.)

Removable caulk in a tube called Peen-N-Seal will also work, but the VOCs are crazy high and it costs more per foot and is a pain to use on anything but a simple joint.

Since you're going through the stucco & into wood, masonry screws (Tapcon, etc.) aren't necessary. Outdoor rated construction screws should be A-OK for this temporary job. (If permanent, get ones compatible with your treated wood.)


A Tapcon Note:
Many masonry screw brands are not rated for use with treated lumber or wood products due to corrosion. Check the package for details. I have some Tapcon that say no & some say OK. What the difference is, I don't know. Same with ITW Read Head.

I hope your project is successful & maybe even fun!
Paul

 

[mabloodhound]

Since you're delving into the home repair venue, get a multi tool saw, very easy and safe to use and will become your go to saw for all cutting. Many different makers and for occasional use the cheap ones will work. Dremel Multi-Max MM20V 20V Variable Speed Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool Kit (1-Battery) MM20V-01 - The Home Depot

 

[PJB12]

Since you're delving into the home repair venue, get a multi tool saw, very easy and safe to use and will become your go to saw for all cutting. Many different makers and for occasional use the cheap ones will work. Dremel Multi-Max MM20V 20V Variable Speed Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool Kit (1-Battery) MM20V-01 - The Home Depot

I've watched people creatively use those for all kinds of tasks- including making oval shaped holes in tile walls for shower valve.

But, do any of you know an inexpensive, or even moderate, source for blades?
At the big box & hardware stores, they are very expensive. Some are $25.00 and more per wood cutting blade. That's what is stopping me from buying an oscillating saw.
Paul

 

[Snoonyb]

I've watched people creatively use those for all kinds of tasks- including making oval shaped holes in tile walls for shower valve.

But, do any of you know an inexpensive, or even moderate, source for blades?
At the big box & hardware stores, they are very expensive. Some are $25.00 and more per wood cutting blade. That's what is stopping me from buying an oscillating saw.
Paul

I've found them at virtually all the hdwr. vendors for as little as $10, and in the multi-packs, as little a $1.50ea, however, that's less vehicle, ins. and fuel.

 

[mabloodhound]

I've watched people creatively use those for all kinds of tasks- including making oval shaped holes in tile walls for shower valve.

But, do any of you know an inexpensive, or even moderate, source for blades?
At the big box & hardware stores, they are very expensive. Some are $25.00 and more per wood cutting blade. That's what is stopping me from buying an oscillating saw.
Paul

Check out Amazon. They have some good multi packs of blades

 

[PJB12]

Thanks, Guys for the blade information. I've been shopping in all the wrong places (like usual).
Paul