Hanging a new light fixture help

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by ActuariallySpeaking, Jan 7, 2018.

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  1. Jan 7, 2018 #1

    ActuariallySpeaking

    ActuariallySpeaking

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    I am trying to hang a flush-mount chandelier in a bedroom to replace an old fixture, but I'm not quite sure what I'm doing with the copper ground!

    The "exisiting" wiring is in the below photo- the blue arrow indicates where I believe the current copper ground is being connected. I then have the current light fixture that has a copper piece that is completely loose and not attached to the light fixture at all. Where does this attach on the light fixture? There is one hole where the wires go through underneath the bracket as well. Do I need to attach it to where the copper ground from the ceiling is attached? Or can it be attached at the mounting bracket?

    Sorry I feel like this is such a silly question but the guy at Lowe's was not all that helpful!

    Thanks!

    2018-01-07 10.00.53.jpg

    20180107_095720.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2018
  2. Jan 7, 2018 #2

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

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    You may find a hole-in-the-wall electrical supply house that can sell you the necessary parts to mate these two. Bring your photo.

    Otherwise, find a ceiling box like yours at Lowes, bring in your fan box, and mix and match with what they have until you find a match.

    If you're really ambitious, confirm that the ceiling box provides a good ground. You'll need an extension cord, clip leads and two 100w bulbs (in case you pop the first one).

    Actuarially speaking, doing DIY may shorten your life. :hide:

    And, I get an annuity that uses an IRS life table that has me living to 102. Since they know that I am not 101, what is wrong with those dudes? :confused:
     
  3. Jan 7, 2018 #3

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    oh ok I have an idea where the copper ground goes now. See pictures on how I think it should be set up

    20180107_102658.jpg

    20180107_103042.jpg

    20180107_103111.jpg
     
  4. Jan 7, 2018 #4

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    You can hook that wire to a screw in the box or to the bear copper wire with a wire nut.
    The piece between the fingers comes out and is screwed to the box Put one screw thru that loop.
     
  5. Jan 7, 2018 #5

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

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    Glad I could help!!! :p

    B4 you mount it, stick the black and white wires carefully into an outlet (black to the short slot) and confirm the thing actually works.
    Doesn't hurt, prevents confusion downstream: IOW, good practice.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2018
  6. Jan 7, 2018 #6

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    So I should probably just stick with sticking the copper ground wires on the same bolt? I am probably not going to test to see if the box is a good ground... this sounds like a project for someone that is not such a newb as myself.

    As for living to 102... I'm in health insurance, but, I'm assuming you're considered a pretty healthy, low risk person! I'm avoiding the life insurance exam until the syllabus changes this coming summer. :) It was my last one until I was credentialed (they just added a programming exam...), so I can really only talk about very basic mortality tables that have shown up on some other exams.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2018 #7

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    Ok- to clarify- are you saying that where the copper wire currently is (in between the two washers) is incorrect or are you saying that it is in the correct spot and the end of that wire is screwed to the box with a screw?
     
  8. Jan 7, 2018 #8

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    You have posted more pictures after I posted that.

    You want ground to go from the new light attached to metal and run into the box attached to metal and or the copper wire there.

    All you need to know is if you wire the light wrong and make the frame live with power, it will pop the breaker before you touch it.:hide::p
     
  9. Jan 7, 2018 #9

    Snoonyb

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    The grnd. conductor is bonded to the box, buy the screw as shown in photo #1 of post #1.

    The bracket you are holding in photo #2 of post #1 attaches to the box and should not deform when securely tightened. If it does not deform you can put an #8 washer between the bracket and the screw head so when you wrap the 2 fixture grnd. conductors around the screw, they will be secure.

    When you assemble the fixture the grnd. conductor’s large washer end, in photo #2 of post #1, goes between the nut/washer and the cap in the same photo.The grnd. conductor in photo #2 of post #3 can be twisted together with the afore mentioned grnd. and attached as mentioned
     
  10. Jan 7, 2018 #10

    mabloodhound

    mabloodhound

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    What you've shown in your photo will work. The large lug on that copper ground wire must be connected to that center mounting shaft like you show or else inside the top plate under the nut & washer, either place.

    Dave Mason
     
  11. Jan 9, 2018 #11

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    Ok we haven't turned the power back on (need to go buy lightbulbs) but here is the partially done result! Looping the copper wires around the ground was by far the hardest part, probably because the wires weren't super long (holding up the heavy fixture, sneaking in a screwdriver in a tight spot and keeping the wires wrapped) Next time, even though it will be a pain, (if I ever need to assemble a chandelier again) I will assemble AFTER the base is installed. Heavy light fixture + 6 months pregnant = cranky woman. Now time to add moulding, (the ceiling was textured, so that's new too!), paint and voila! Hubs wants to line the closet with cedar but we'll see. Thanks everyone for helping me give my future princess a very awesome room :)

    20180108_164031.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
  12. Jan 9, 2018 #12

    afjes_2016

    afjes_2016

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    ActuariallySpeaking: I am a day or two behind on this post but quite honestly I am a bit concerned about hanging that chandelier (seems pretty heavy) in just looking at the pictures. That ceiling box I do not believe is rated for the weight of that chandelier - those ears may not hold the weight. Any idea of what that chandelier weighs?

    Also upon looking at the chandelier (pics) I do not see any markings of UL approved. It says it is made in china but it could still be UL approved. If it is not UL approved I would think twice about using it.
     
  13. Jan 9, 2018 #13

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    We did install a new brace in the ceiling that was rated for a 90 lb. fixture, and it weighs about 14 lbs. I will do some research about it being UL approved.
     
  14. Jan 9, 2018 #14

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

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    So, a safety factor of over 6.
    If 90# is the working load, the ultimate strength can be quite a bit higher.
    The industry-wide safety factor is 4 unless there's a personnel hazard in which case it can be 10 or more.

    If falling will land it on a table, I'd leave it.

    If it fails gracefully, like by sagging first, I'd leave it.



    Regarding UL, there was a 13 watt light fixture at IKEA that recommended the HO use wire rated for 105C. For a 13w fixture?

    So I e-mailed UL about this.
    This should have put the ball in UL's court but the guy wanted me to go back to IKEA and get more data. Not happening!
    Maybe he was making me a job offer. . . ?
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
  15. Jan 10, 2018 #15

    afjes_2016

    afjes_2016

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    Ok, I understand you installed a new brace in the ceiling but the issue is and I am only saying this for your safety that the box does not seem to be rated for heavy fixtures. Those ears over time with a heavy weight like a chandelier may tend to bend and possibly break and the chandelier may fall. The brace will still be up there nice and secure but those ears may snap off.

    Please see picture of a fan rated box.

    fan box.jpg
     
  16. Jan 17, 2018 #16

    ActuariallySpeaking

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    Sorry I'm a bit delayed in responding- I've been on the road! But, we purchased a box/brace kit for a ceiling fan, so the box was replaced as well! Thank you for your concern!
     
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