Help with covered porch ceiling paint coming off

[papakevin]

Warning, I'm not much of a painter, so the following questions are very basic.

I have a brick home with a covered front porch, open in the front. Lately, the ceiling paint has started to crack, and some of it is falling off. I'm assuming the ceiling is drywall or greenboard, but it could be plywood (I haven't gotten up on a ladder to check it out.) The house is approximately 40 years old.

My questions. Do I just need to sand all of the paint and sand off the loose chunks? Should I try to glue the loose pieces back onto the ceiling? If I remove the loose paint, do I need to use drywall mud (or something) else to level out the ceiling after removing the loose paint before repainting? I'm guessing I should use a flat exterior paint. Is latex paint okay or should I go in a different direction? Thanks in advance for any help.

-Kevin

 

[papakevin]

 

[papakevin]

 

[havasu]

You first need to advise whether it is a drywall (unlikely), stucco, plaster or plywood.

 

[papakevin]

You first need to advise whether it is a drywall (unlikely), stucco, plaster or plywood.

Confirming it is drywall.

 

[havasu]

I've never seen drywall used in an overhang exposed to the elements. I'm guessing the best resolution would be to remove all flaking, then skimcoat the entire ceiling with drywall mud. Sand, prime, then paint.

 

[PJB12]

My guess is that the ceiling was bad and, before selling the house, a quick drywall repair was done. Be sure to study to ensure there is no water problem from above. Such a situation could lead to mold in the space above the ceiling.


Your challenge is that, since the porch is open, ambient moisture will be testing your repairs. Movement from extreme temperature changes may also pose problems for the joints.

If you do use Havasu's good plan of skimcoat, I suggest using setting type joint compound for more resistance to moisture than pre-mixed bucket compound Be sure to use paper drywall tape instead of mesh. It holds better against cracks.

ProForm QuickSet Lite from National is used in heated or unheated areas. It is easy to dry sand and one can sand it to the point where no topping coat is needed before painting. I've seen it used in unheated garages without cracking. USG Durabond 210 is also strong but is difficult to sand to a smooth enough finish to paint without a coat of topping.


Painting Stuff I Learned From Experience & From Paint Engineers: (Some of it very recently)
For painting, I suggest a gripping primer such as PPG Seal Grip Gripper. It grabs & holds onto the substrate tenaciously, leaving a great surface for the color coat to lock onto. Zinzeer makes a gripping primer, too. (I've used dozens of gallons of Seal Grip Gripper. It does hold on very well- to everything.)

For the color coat, an exterior paint might be best because of the ceiling's troublesome environment. It'll chalk, but you don't brush against it. Maybe a paint for commercial showers and saunas is even better. (Ask a paint store person about that. I'm guessing.)

Try to find a 100% acrylic solids, water based paint with urethane for more bonding power. PPG Acri-Shield Max has urethane. I think Sherwin Williams Duration has it too. Benjamin Moore also makes one- Aura I think.

OR......
In my 120-something year old house, the porch ceiling is the traditional Craftsman look: Bead-board planks. Original, I think.

In another house, I took down the (cracked, asbestos laden, lead paint covered, yuck) plaster porch ceiling & installed GP's 1/2" thick plywood that has bead-board grooves milled into it. (It comes in other thicknesses, too.)
Both ceilings are holding up well & look good.

Whatever you choose to do, work safely and be sure to enjoy your project!
Paul

PS: I learned from 3 paint manufacturers that Paint And Primer In One coating aren't to be used as a traditional primer. The primer part is meant to cover the old color paint, not seal the bare surface. The TDS sheets for each product mention that. On bare wood, aluminum, vinyl, plaster, drywall, etc. they all want traditional primer before their paint and primer.

 

[Sparky617]

Our church had covered walkways that used drywall for the ceilings. It was a constant maintenance nightmare and we eventually replaced it with vinyl soffit material. If it were my house, I'd pull down the drywall and replace it with a material designed for outdoor use. Options include: vinyl soffit, Hardi-Panel fiber cement 4x8 sheets, plywood, tongue and grooved boards. For either the Hardi-Panel or plywood you'll want to cover the seams with some sort of trim, a piece of wood lattice will work or you could go to a 1x2 or 1x3 pine or vinyl trim boards.

 

[papakevin]

Our church had covered walkways that used drywall for the ceilings. It was a constant maintenance nightmare and we eventually replaced it with vinyl soffit material. If it were my house, I'd pull down the drywall and replace it with a material designed for outdoor use. Options include: vinyl soffit, Hardi-Panel fiber cement 4x8 sheets, plywood, tongue and grooved boards. For either the Hardi-Panel or plywood you'll want to cover the seams with some sort of trim, a piece of wood lattice will work or you could go to a 1x2 or 1x3 pine or vinyl trim boards.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will look into these options.

 

[PJB12]

If you do the panels that Sparky617 mentioned, you might like the look of the panel seams covered with battens. We have a cathedral ceiling in our house with that. The sheets are painted eggshell with the battens satin. Looks good to my eyes. (And, more importantly to SWMBO's eyes.)

The battens allow you to leave an important expansion gap between sheets. You can break it up into rectangles, squares or have crazy fun with hexagons. (A photo stolen from the internet is attached to explain what my words can't.)
Paul

 

[papakevin]

If you do the panels that Sparky617 mentioned, you might like the look of the panel seams covered with battens. We have a cathedral ceiling in our house with that. The sheets are painted eggshell with the battens satin. Looks good to my eyes. (And, more importantly to SWMBO's eyes.)

The battens allow you to leave an important expansion gap between sheets. You can break it up into rectangles, squares or have crazy fun with hexagons. (A photo stolen from the internet is attached to explain what my words can't.)
Paul

Awesome, thank you. I appreciate it.