How do I fix my ceiling?

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farmerjohn1324

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The roof had been leaking from the previous owners. I fixed the roof leak, but I decided to rip down all the soggy drywall.
 

nealtw

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Post some pictures so we can see if anything obvious should be looked at before you put drywall back up.
 

oldognewtrick

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If it were my house, I'd take all the drywall off the ceiling and replace with new. tape the joints and do away with the popcorn stuff. Trying to make a patch and blend with the popcorn texture, while not impossible, will be difficult. Just my:2cents:
 

beachguy005

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I don't know your skill set but I'm going to agree with oldognewtrick on replacing it all and going with a smooth ceiling. Hopefully it's a small room. You also want to make sure everything is dry and having the ceiling open is a good time to add, remove or relocate any wires and such that you may be considering.
 

nealtw

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I agree with others, depending on size of room I guess. remove and replace, think about those pot lights that the wife wants.
Rent a drywall lift to put up new.
 

nealtw

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I would pull it down and if you use resilient channel and run the drywall the other way you will not have to deal with but joints in the drywall as you can get sheets as long as the room is wide.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IfYuNnRLgU[/ame]
 

joecaption

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I'd also go with can light's or at least install new fan rated boxes, because at some point someone's going to want to replace those lights.
Need 5/8 sheetrock for a ceiling.
As mention well worth the money to rent a lift!
 

farmerjohn1324

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What is a can light? Do you mean to replace the chandelier? When I Google "can light," I don't see anything that would replace the chandelier.

How many people are needed to do this?
 
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Mastercarpenty

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Codes here allow 1/2" on ceilings with framing 16"o.c. and it works fine. Type"X" 5/8" is required for garage ceilings. I too would pull it all, textured ceilings have gone so far out of style that it can stop a sale in it's tracks.

I can match textures nearly perfectly but it's not something you can teach by remote learning. It took lots of hands-on for me, and now that I've aced it nobody wants it done anymore. Just my luck.

Phil
 

farmerjohn1324

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Without starting a new thread.


My roof has been leaking in to my house for over a week. Will this cause long-term damage to the plywood?

I will get it patched up this weekend.
 

Mastercarpenty

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From the looks of the pic, that plywood is probably gone already. I see sagging and blackness, not just minor water staining. You need to inspect it carefully if you're not going to replace it. The joists/rafters look OK but I'd poke at the top edges of them checking for softness with a flat-bladed screwdriver. If there's more than an inch or two of slight softness in more than a few places, you need to pull the plywood in that area for a thorough inspection which makes plywood replacement almost mandatory since you're not likely to get it pulled without damaging it.

Phil
 

farmerjohn1324

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From the looks of the pic, that plywood is probably gone already. I see sagging and blackness, not just minor water staining. You need to inspect it carefully if you're not going to replace it. The joists/rafters look OK but I'd poke at the top edges of them checking for softness with a flat-bladed screwdriver. If there's more than an inch or two of slight softness in more than a few places, you need to pull the plywood in that area for a thorough inspection which makes plywood replacement almost mandatory since you're not likely to get it pulled without damaging it.

Phil
I can poke soft spots in the plywood, but can't poke all the way through it. The torch down was reapplied today. I will wait until the next rain to verify that it doesn't leak.

Other than that, I was told to Kilz the plywood underneath along with the beams to make sure mold doesn't grow.
 
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