How do I fix my ceiling?

The roof had been leaking from the previous owners. I fixed the roof leak, but I decided to rip down all the soggy drywall.

 

Post some pictures so we can see if anything obvious should be looked at before you put drywall back up.

 

Forgot the pics. Here they are.

 

I don't know your skill set but I'm going to agree with oldognewtrick on replacing it all and going with a smooth ceiling. Hopefully it's a small room. You also want to make sure everything is dry and having the ceiling open is a good time to add, remove or relocate any wires and such that you may be considering.

 

I agree with others, depending on size of room I guess. remove and replace, think about those pot lights that the wife wants.
Rent a drywall lift to put up new.

 

This is the room.

 

I would pull it down and if you use resilient channel and run the drywall the other way you will not have to deal with but joints in the drywall as you can get sheets as long as the room is wide.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IfYuNnRLgU[/ame]

 

I'd also go with can light's or at least install new fan rated boxes, because at some point someone's going to want to replace those lights.
Need 5/8 sheetrock for a ceiling.
As mention well worth the money to rent a lift!

 

What is a can light? Do you mean to replace the chandelier? When I Google "can light," I don't see anything that would replace the chandelier.

How many people are needed to do this?

 

Can lights, pot lights, pocket lights are all the rage up here and the come in all kinds. They go above the drywall.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=can+...2tzOAhWGKGMKHW7PCH8Q_AUICCgB&biw=1699&bih=812

It would take at least 2 people even with a lift
One sheet of 5/8 thick 12 ft long is about 120 pounds.

 

Codes here allow 1/2" on ceilings with framing 16"o.c. and it works fine. Type"X" 5/8" is required for garage ceilings. I too would pull it all, textured ceilings have gone so far out of style that it can stop a sale in it's tracks.

I can match textures nearly perfectly but it's not something you can teach by remote learning. It took lots of hands-on for me, and now that I've aced it nobody wants it done anymore. Just my luck.

Phil

 

Without starting a new thread.


My roof has been leaking in to my house for over a week. Will this cause long-term damage to the plywood?

I will get it patched up this weekend.

 

Yep go for new. otherwise it wont all match up.

 

What do you mean "match up?" I'm just talking about structural damage to the plywood.

 

From the looks of the pic, that plywood is probably gone already. I see sagging and blackness, not just minor water staining. You need to inspect it carefully if you're not going to replace it. The joists/rafters look OK but I'd poke at the top edges of them checking for softness with a flat-bladed screwdriver. If there's more than an inch or two of slight softness in more than a few places, you need to pull the plywood in that area for a thorough inspection which makes plywood replacement almost mandatory since you're not likely to get it pulled without damaging it.

Phil

 

I can poke soft spots in the plywood, but can't poke all the way through it. The torch down was reapplied today. I will wait until the next rain to verify that it doesn't leak.

Other than that, I was told to Kilz the plywood underneath along with the beams to make sure mold doesn't grow.

 

I have been told this is a better product.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-1-gal-Mold-Control-Jug-025001/100654369.
Will you have venting between the insulation and plywood, air should be able to get in one side and out the other?