How to get this trailer door to close?

[farmerjohn1324]

I can see that the door hits the frame where the red arrow is pointing. It does close, but it's slightly ajar at the top. The bottom half of the door closes completely.

 

[joecaption]

Is the trailer being held up by the tires and the front hitch as normal, or have you done something like set the frame on blocks?
Checked to see if the gaskets around the door and door opening are still firmly glue on?

 

[farmerjohn1324]

Is the trailer being held up by the tires and the front hitch as normal, or have you done something like set the frame on blocks?
Checked to see if the gaskets around the door and door opening are still firmly glue on?

The tires and front hitch are all in contact with the ground, but it has also been leveled using a jack and cinder blocks. Although it is not entirely level. It has been very difficult getting this level with a jack and cinder blocks. Should I have it supported by the tires and hitch only?

I will check the gaskets next time I'm there.

 

[nealtw]

Just like leveling a house you keep an eye on the doors.
Remove tires and set on blocks level from the front as best you can then add blocks to take the bounce out of it. That's about what we did with an old mobile home.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

Just like leveling a house you keep an eye on the doors.
Remove tires and set on blocks level from the front as best you can then add blocks to take the bounce out of it. That's about what we did with an old mobile home.

So basically, I MUST remove the tires and have it on blocks? The tires should not be supporting any weight at all?

And I have been told that the place bounces a lot when people move in it.

 

[nealtw]

No you don't have to remove the tires but you want to block in that area because it was designed to carry the weight in that area. If you just block up and level the ends the frame can flex down at the tires and the tires and springs will supply the bounce and the body shape can deform.
I would put a blocks between spring and frame to remove the bounce and jack up the axles. Tires and springs no longer add anything, level it from the front and then add snug blocks front and back which will take the flex out of the frame.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

I would put a blocks between spring and frame to remove the bounce and jack up the axles. Tires and springs no longer add anything, level it from the front and then add snug blocks front and back which will take the flex out of the frame.

So you are saying that the tires should not touch the ground?

How many different columns of blocks should there be on each side?

 

[havasu]

I had a motorhome door that wasn't sealing properly, but it was from constant banging into the canopy. I took a piece of 2x4 and with a little persuasion, it sealed perfectly.

 

[joecaption]

If your trying to level this with just concrete blocks setting on the ground with no footings it's not going to happen.
Not enough "footprint" there just going to sink into the ground at some point and need to be shimmed.
Not sure of you local lumber company carryies them but some will have a 24 X 24 X 4' thick concrete pad to set the block on.
The 24" pad has to be 100% level in all directions before setting the blocks.
Cedar or better yet steel shims will be needed to make 100% contact with the frame.
Only area that needs to be 100% level is the door ways.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

If your trying to level this with just concrete blocks setting on the ground with no footings it's not going to happen.
Not enough "footprint" there just going to sink into the ground at some point and need to be shimmed.
Not sure of you local lumber company carryies them but some will have a 24 X 24 X 4' thick concrete pad to set the block on.
The 24" pad has to be 100% level in all directions before setting the blocks.
Cedar or better yet steel shims will be needed to make 100% contact with the frame.
Only area that needs to be 100% level is the door ways.

How many total columns of blocks should there be on each side?

And should the tires be bearing any weight at all?

 

[farmerjohn1324]

No you don't have to remove the tires but you want to block in that area because it was designed to carry the weight in that area. If you just block up and level the ends the frame can flex down at the tires and the tires and springs will supply the bounce and the body shape can deform.
I would put a blocks between spring and frame to remove the bounce and jack up the axles. Tires and springs no longer add anything, level it from the front and then add snug blocks front and back which will take the flex out of the frame.

So you're saying that the tires should support no weight at all?

https://goo.gl/images/uMMJgS

This is the model of trailer.

 

[nealtw]

You can't expect to level it by the ends and leave the tires and springs in play. The frame will sag it has been made ridged the other way.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

You can't expect to level it by the ends and leave the tires and springs in play. The frame will sag it has been made ridged the other way.

So you think 3 or 4 columns of blocks on each side would be best? One near the front, 1 near the back, and 1 on either side of the tires.

I bought two of these... I will put them on a concrete pad near the front, so this will be adjustible.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Akron-Mobile...moPyB2c69EhGgKKEJHbDo90s8MO8NxdRoC0VEQAvD_BwE

 

[farmerjohn1324]

If your trying to level this with just concrete blocks setting on the ground with no footings it's not going to happen.
Not enough "footprint" there just going to sink into the ground at some point and need to be shimmed.
Not sure of you local lumber company carryies them but some will have a 24 X 24 X 4' thick concrete pad to set the block on.
The 24" pad has to be 100% level in all directions before setting the blocks.
Cedar or better yet steel shims will be needed to make 100% contact with the frame.
Only area that needs to be 100% level is the door ways.

Would 16x16x4 work? That's the biggest I can find.