Is it possible.

[drrkphillips]

Hello new here. I've been trying to find answers about finishing my basement but, i think i have a problem with the way the floor is. the basement is about 40' x 80' lets say i don't know the exact dimensions with a partitioning wall directly in the center the long way. On one half are the laundry room, stairs, storage area, and unfinished bathroom. The other half is completely open. The floor is all tiled and also has in floor heating. I am trying to partition the open side to make different rooms ex.. bedroom, workshop. I think i'm screwed in the fact that the floor is tiled and has in floor heating so I won't be able to secure a floor base plate for a wall correctly. Or is there a way without nailing through the tile into the concrete and possibly damaging the in floor heat tubing. Maybe some kind of cleat or glue? I'm not sure and I'm no professional. If I have to live with it so be it.

 

[Snoonyb]

Welcome.
To obtain a more accurate dimension, measure from the outside, on both sides, to the center wall, then measure the width of the center wall, at a doorway, and add.

Since you have four fixed perimeters, floor, walls and ceiling, and are framing between them, attaching to the walls and ceiling, unless you are playing bumper cars, a little LOCTITE power grab, or similar adhesive under the sill should do just fine.

 

[Sparky617]

I'd agree with the adhesive, just build the wall on top of the tile. What kind of in-floor heat do you have electric or water? If you really want to use some fasteners I'd use Tapcons. With a thermal camera you would be able to find exactly where the water lines are if you have water heat. You could take an image and mark where the water lines are and carefully work to avoid them. I wouldn't use concrete nails.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tapcon-75-Pack-1-1-4-in-x-1-4-in-Concrete-Anchors/3043602

 

[Jeff Handy]

Polyurethane construction adhesive.

Fix any iffy tiles first.

Use treated but dried wood for anything resting on the tile, if the basement has any dampness, or any chance of seepage or flooding.

 

[drrkphillips]

Thanks you guys for the replies. i have water in floor heating. I'd still like to use some kind of fasteners to support the bottom plates but, you guys saying adhesive would be ok and making sure the top of the wall is fastened eases my mind. I am ok going through the tile into the concrete i'm just not sure how deep i could go. I thought there was a minimal depth for the pipes could go to be effective and efficient. Like Sparky said using a thermal camera would help me pinpoint each section but, I always worry about something moving or cracking or splintering the concrete into the pipes puncturing them if i were to use fasteners. I think I should be safe if i were to use fasteners and the adhesive in combo while only going 1/2 inch past the wood into the floor. I think they sell 2'' tapcon screws. To be more precise the area i have to work with in the basement is 20' x 20'. Thanks again for the responses. Also from the MN area if that makes a difference on how people build stuff.

 

[Sparky617]

What kind of piping was used for the in-floor heat? Hopefully PEX and not copper. Copper tends to react with the concrete leading to leaks years down the road. I think on one of the This Old House episodes they showed using a thermal camera to map out the pipes. If you drilled in between the pipe with a hammer drill the risk of damage is very slight to non-existent. Depending on how they laid out the pipes and how well they were fastened them down before the pour which is probably unknown, makes fastening directly above the pipes a very risky proposition. That said, every layout I've seen has the pipes 6" plus apart giving you room to get between them.