Kitchen Sink Faucet Flow:

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dryflycaster

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OK....... Here We Goooooooooo.

I have a new Moen Kitchen Sink Faucet, Caldwell m/n CA87060SRS. It is a two valve (one Hot and one cold faucet), high arc spout with spray attachment. The flow/pressure from the faucet is what I consider to be paltry at best (See below). The sprayer flow/pressure is adequate.

My water supply is a well that is "Ever Flowing" (Approximately 40+ GPM overflows on the ground 24 hours a day, every day. Hence I could care less what Big Brother's regulations are I am not worried one bit about wasting water.

I have currently removed, what I figured was the flow restrictor from the faucet aerator (a small round red mesh object), and the flow improved considerably. Unfortunately it is still what I I consider to to be sub-par.

This is a new faucet on on new sink. I would love to just remove it and install our previous Peerless faucet but it's a bit shabby looking from years of use and my wife would certainty balk at the idea.

The shut-off valves under the sink are the standard chrome 3/8" tubing type fed by 3/4" CPVC house piping and connected to the faucet with 3/8" flexible poly tubing. All components are new with the exception of the house piping.

Water well pump pressure is 60 PSI.

Current Approximate Kitchen Faucet Flow Rates.

Cold Only: 1 1/2 GPM
Hot Only: 1 1/2 GPM
Cold & Hot : 2. 1/2 GPM
Well Overflow: 40+ GPM

With the spout removed and looking down into the throat I can see a plastic/nylon piece approximately 1 inch below the top surface. It has a a hexagon depression with a hole in the center through which the water can pass/flow. Is this another insidious form of flow restrictor or is it perhaps required as part of the diverter for the sprayer ? The hex is some non-standard size, so I have been unable to remove it at this point as a test (if it can even be removed through the top of the faucet).

Is it possible that Moen is using some sort of flow restriction in the Hot and Cold valve cartridges ? I have not removed either of them for inspection up to this point.
 
Sometimes when changing a faucet a little bit of dirt and debris can get into the line. If it's possible I would recommend turning the valve off and then disconnecting the line from underneath the faucet. Then turn on the valve and let the line empty into a bucket. That may free up any debris that may be stuck in it. I often do this before hooking up a faucet just as a precaution. If the water still comes out slowly you may want to consider changing the valve. If the water comes out quickly you'll know whatever restriction there is, is past the line and somewhere in your faucet. I hope this helps
 
Sometimes when changing a faucet a little bit of dirt and debris can get into the line. If it's possible I would recommend turning the valve off and then disconnecting the line from underneath the faucet. Then turn on the valve and let the line empty into a bucket. That may free up any debris that may be stuck in it. I often do this before hooking up a faucet just as a precaution. If the water still comes out slowly you may want to consider changing the valve. If the water comes out quickly you'll know whatever restriction there is, is past the line and somewhere in your faucet. I hope this helps


Good suggestion. If I get time maybe I'll' give it a try tomorrow.
 
Any time you work on old plumbing trash always gets knocked loose in the lines.
Always best to remove the aerator and flush out the lines.
#2, That type faucet has tiny lines as supplies inside that arc reducing the flow.
 
I did flush it by removing the aerator but I never flushed the lines disconnected from the faucet.

This isn't my first rodeo. I have always flushed new installations with the aerator removegd and never found it necessary to flush the lines disconnected from the faucet.
 

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