Leaking sliding glass door

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Pittsburgh, PA
Hi everyone - first post. I had a sliding glass door that had leaked for many years. The contractor came back out 7 times and could not figure out the problem. I bought a new slider and had it professionally installed. It has started a slow leak on the opposite side.

Looking out from the house the first doors stationary side was on the right and that is where the leak was. We flipped the second door (installed 9/17) and the stationary side is on the left side looking out from the house and it leaks from the left stationary side now. This installer has been back out 3 three times and has caulked all around the door, then removed the j channel and caulked around the door again. The installer doesn't have any more ideas and believes the leak is coming from somewhere else. The house has vinyl siding and there is a window about 5 feet above the door. I couldn't see any leaking around the window from the inside of the house.

Do you think it is time to pull the siding off or should I request the door be pulled back out and reinstalled?

Thanks for your help.
 
I would first try and simulate the leak with a garden hose starting at the bottom and slowly work up at the first sign of penetration mark the height. If you get to the top of the door and see no water coming in then I would say it is not the install it is above and working down thru the framing and into the door.


It is odd the side changed with the doors.


The hose test may or may not tell you something and if it is not then unsnapping the siding and looking might be a plan.


Welcome to the forum also.
 
As soon as you mentioned word "caulking" more than once I knew there was trouble.
A properly installed door does not need caulking with the exception of under the threshold as it's being installed.
Was there Z molding installed over the top of the door before the J mold went on?
Was the door set in a sill pan, which is best, or at least properly flashed?
Nailing fin, or Brick molding on the outside edges?
Door threshold level on the outside with any solid surface, deck, stoop, ECT. (that's one sure way to have water come in under the door.)
Try and post a picture standing back from the outside of house so we can see the whole door, no close ups needed yet.
 
Ditto on what Joe said, but I'd also like to ask, is there a window directly above the door on a second floor?
 
I would first try and simulate the leak with a garden hose starting at the bottom and slowly work up at the first sign of penetration mark the height. If you get to the top of the door and see no water coming in then I would say it is not the install it is above and working down thru the framing and into the door.


It is odd the side changed with the doors.


The hose test may or may not tell you something and if it is not then unsnapping the siding and looking might be a plan.


Welcome to the forum also.
Thanks. I am going to start the hose test today.
 
As soon as you mentioned word "caulking" more than once I knew there was trouble.
A properly installed door does not need caulking with the exception of under the threshold as it's being installed.
Was there Z molding installed over the top of the door before the J mold went on?
Was the door set in a sill pan, which is best, or at least properly flashed?
Nailing fin, or Brick molding on the outside edges?
Door threshold level on the outside with any solid surface, deck, stoop, ECT. (that's one sure way to have water come in under the door.)
Try and post a picture standing back from the outside of house so we can see the whole door, no close ups needed yet.
Ditto on what Joe said, but I'd also like to ask, is there a window directly above the door on a second floor?
 

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As soon as you mentioned word "caulking" more than once I knew there was trouble.
A properly installed door does not need caulking with the exception of under the threshold as it's being installed.
Was there Z molding installed over the top of the door before the J mold went on?
Was the door set in a sill pan, which is best, or at least properly flashed?
Nailing fin, or Brick molding on the outside edges?
Door threshold level on the outside with any solid surface, deck, stoop, ECT. (that's one sure way to have water come in under the door.)
Try and post a picture standing back from the outside of house so we can see the whole door, no close ups needed yet.
 

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I am embarrassed to say, but I let the contractor install the door on a day I was not home and my wife was because we were having difficulty in scheduling the install with our work schedules. I will have to call and ask the company about the z molding and sill pan.
 
I am embarrassed to say, but I let the contractor install the door on a day I was not home and my wife was because we were having difficulty in scheduling the install with our work schedules. I will have to call and ask the company about the z molding and sill pan.
The flashing above the door is visible on the outside. If the door was installed properly the problem is likely further up
Under the outside bottom of the door there should be no caulking and the flashing may be visible under there, maybe use a mirror. It might be metal or what looks like coloured poly.
 
Leaks like that are very often coming from way above.

The second story window, or even from the gutters, roof flashing, plumbing vent on the roof, attic vent nearby, a missing knothole in a fascia board.

Look up!
 
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