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tk3000

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Hello Folks,

Recently got a new house. The garden came with some trees and plants that I am not sure about.

One, at first, looks like a northern white cedar. The following:

FORTWAYN_HOUSE_FRONT_TREE.jpg

FORTWAYN_HOUSE_BACKYEARD_PLANTS_TREES2.jpg


Another one. Is that one ornamental grass?

FORTWAYN_HOUSE_BACKYEARD_PLANTS_TREES1.jpg



And, last but not least, three large pine trees. I heard that some pine trees produce edible pine (others are poisonous). Does that seem to be one that produces the edible stuff?

FORTWAYN_HOUSE_BACKYEARD_PINE_TREES.jpg
Are those tree and plants high maintenance (pruning, trimming, etc)?

Thanks for any input!
 
Get some chlorine in that pool ASAP!
 
Get some chlorine in that pool ASAP!


Thanks for the warning! I have been doing so many things lately and having so many extra expenses that did almost nothing concerning the pool, besides skimming it every other day (first time I got a house with a pool, and know close to nothing about it). All the pool equipment is still disconnected (as left by the previous owner; it was winter back then).

Today, I went out and bought a jug (gallon) of pool chlorine and poured in different spot of the pool at night. The following:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pool-Essentials-1-Gallon-Liquid-Pool-Chlorine/5001527059

Does that help, at least for the time being? How often do you recommend using it? How crucial is connecting the equipment (filter, pump, heater, etc) right now given that nobody is using the pool?

Also, found the following products left by the previous owner:
IMG_20240426_214320655.jpg



One of them (Peak) looks to be needed before pool closing (off season).
 
Hello TK3000,
Congratulations on your new house!

Sorry my reply is so long, but maybe some of this will help you identify and care for the plants.


The second photo with the two tall items look like arborvitae. Which variety, I don't know. They sure smell good, don't they?

Watch out for those being so close to the building:
Two of ours were farther from the building, yet the roots managed to punch into the concrete foundation. They also worked their way into the mortar joints on a concrete block porch. Once inside under the porch slab, the roots grew and broke a concrete (not cinder) block from the inside out. A root pushed another corner block out. Crazy Strong Roots!

In winter, they can load up with snow & ice and the wind bashes them against the house, gutters and shingles relentlessly. I've seen them tip over completely in winter, wrecking what they hit.

Also note that yours are in range for squirrels and raccoons to jump on your roof. Under the cathedral ceiling, it sounds like a heard of elephants running around. Cheerful sounds, but...

Sadly last winter broke ours, so we had to remove them. But for yours, one happy thing is that they are strong and willing plants, so you probably won't harm them if you slice the roots off between the tree and the house. (A risk) You'll have to re-cut a few times a year.
A good tool is an extra long reciprocating saw blade, but buy an inexpensive one because the dirt will dull it. Arborvitae roots don't grow terribly deep. (And there's no deep tap root if you ever remove one)



YOUR EVERGREEN TREES-
I can't see well enough to figure out the evergreen tree species (nor the other bushes). They sure look nice!

The only evergreen tree maintenance I've ever done is to remove any branches growing from the bottom of a limb. By doing this, the limb is far less likely to sag down from the weight. Other than that, your trees should take good care of themselves. Note that this refers to the branches actually growing from the bottom of a limb, not the ones on the side that droop down. They'll pop up flat a few months after removing the bottom growing ones.

Also, if you keep up on removing the downward branches for a year or two or three, the tree gives up and they eventually stop growing on the bottoms of the limbs. (Who'd a thunk that trees were smart enough to figure that out?)

Want more trees? Mix some ashes in dirt and plant pine cones from which the squirrels haven't yet looted the pinoli. You'll get new, tiny evergreens. (Ashes in the dirt are the key to success.)


GRASS:
The grass kind of looks like Pennisetum Alopecuroides (hopefully I spelled correctly). Does it dance beautifully in a gentle breeze? It might develop pink streaks later in spring and maybe even tall, thin flowers.

MORE INFORMATION-
GardeningForums Com is an excellent place to get friendly and helpful growing stuff advice and plant identification. They have a very active tree section to help identify the evergreen trees.
Like HouseRepairTalk, it's a welcoming place with no drama.

There are also phone apps to hopefully identify plants from your photos. They can be hit-and-miss. iNaturist is a good one. Picture This and NatureSN also work well, but eventually they both start charging you to use their app.

Enjoy Your New House!
Paul
 
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With the pool chemicals, you need to start filtering as soon as possible. I can tell your phosphates are off the charts, and is the food needed to grow algae. Eliminate the phosphates and you will eliminate the algae. In my city, we have helicopters which fly around. If they see a green pool, expect a knock at the door within an hour, with a yellow tag ordering immediate clean up, since this is a breading ground for mosquitos.

The antifreeze is just for your pool equipment during the cold, freezing months. What I would recommend is to take a cup of that water to any pool supply business, and thru a computer analysis, will tell you exactly what and how much chemicals are needed to make that water fresh and good looking. The pool supply businesses do this for free with the hope you will buy your chemicals at the same location. For the most part, their prices are pretty reasonable except for the phosphate remover. My store wants $125 for a quart of diluted phosphate remover, so I purchase mine online thru Amazon for $42 for the full strength version. This makes 5 gallons.

I also apologize for my pool lecture as I know you were here for plant help, but I'm just trying to help you.
 
Hello TK3000,
Congratulations on your new house!

Sorry my reply is so long, but maybe some of this will help you identify and care for the plants.


The second photo with the two tall items look like arborvitae. Which variety, I don't know. They sure smell good, don't they?

Watch out for those being so close to the building:
Two of ours were farther from the building, yet the roots managed to punch into the concrete foundation. They also worked their way into the mortar joints on a concrete block porch. Once inside under the porch slab, the roots grew and broke a concrete (not cinder) block from the inside out. A root pushed another corner block out. Crazy Strong Roots!

In winter, they can load up with snow & ice and the wind bashes them against the house, gutters and shingles relentlessly. I've seen them tip over completely in winter, wrecking what they hit.

Also note that yours are in range for squirrels and raccoons to jump on your roof. Under the cathedral ceiling, it sounds like a heard of elephants running around. Cheerful sounds, but...

Sadly last winter broke ours, so we had to remove them. But for yours, one happy thing is that they are strong and willing plants, so you probably won't harm them if you slice the roots off between the tree and the house. (A risk) You'll have to re-cut a few times a year.
A good tool is an extra long reciprocating saw blade, but buy an inexpensive one because the dirt will dull it. Arborvitae roots don't grow terribly deep. (And there's no deep tap root if you ever remove one)



YOUR EVERGREEN TREES-
I can't see well enough to figure out the evergreen tree species (nor the other bushes). They sure look nice!

The only evergreen tree maintenance I've ever done is to remove any branches growing from the bottom of a limb. By doing this, the limb is far less likely to sag down from the weight. Other than that, your trees should take good care of themselves. Note that this refers to the branches actually growing from the bottom of a limb, not the ones on the side that droop down. They'll pop up flat a few months after removing the bottom growing ones.

Also, if you keep up on removing the downward branches for a year or two or three, the tree gives up and they eventually stop growing on the bottoms of the limbs. (Who'd a thunk that trees were smart enough to figure that out?)

Want more trees? Mix some ashes in dirt and plant pine cones from which the squirrels haven't yet looted the pinoli. You'll get new, tiny evergreens. (Ashes in the dirt are the key to success.)


GRASS:
The grass kind of looks like Pennisetum Alopecuroides (hopefully I spelled correctly). Does it dance beautifully in a gentle breeze? It might develop pink streaks later in spring and maybe even tall, thin flowers.

MORE INFORMATION-
GardeningForums Com is an excellent place to get friendly and helpful growing stuff advice and plant identification. They have a very active tree section to help identify the evergreen trees.
Like HouseRepairTalk, it's a welcoming place with no drama.

There are also phone apps to hopefully identify plants from your photos. They can be hit-and-miss. iNaturist is a good one. Picture This and NatureSN also work well, but eventually they both start charging you to use their app.

Enjoy Your New House!
Paul


Thanks Paul! I bought it most because of the location, but the pool and everything else came along with it. I am not into pools, and know close to nothing about maintaining them.

At first though, it is a lot of stress and extra work and expenses; but it will pay off at the end. I have two other places (condos), one in Lansing, MI, and another one in Columbus, OH; but I can not maintain all of them (especially because that house was way more expensive – looks like everybody from other States are moving to Fort Wayne, IN), so I am trying to make some update and spruce them up in order to sell them – which add to stress, plus travelling back and forth.

“The second photo with the two tall items look like arborvitae. Which variety, I don't know. They sure smell good, don't they?”

=> I confess that I did notice the smell, but next time I am there will smell and sniff them. After what their roots did to you concrete slab, I am scared of those trees. They are not too close to the actual house, but to the garage which is attached to the house. So, indeed, those trees are very close to the garage and the pool deck, but só far there are no cracks in the immediate vicinity of those trees. Could the roots cause cracks or damage in areas further away (I would imagine that it would be much less likely to)?

So far, I haven’t seen raccoons there yet. The property is fenced which help to keep them in check. I saw few squirrels, but most of the time they hang out near the fence. I also plan on placing some electronic devices to deter help deter them). There is a rabbit or two, but they seem to stay under my deck.


“Sadly last winter broke ours, so we had to remove them. But for yours, one happy thing is that they are strong and willing plants, so you probably won't harm them if you slice the roots off between the tree and the house. (A risk) You'll have to re-cut a few times a year.
A good tool is an extra long reciprocating saw blade, but buy an inexpensive one because the dirt will dull it. Arborvitae roots don't grow terribly deep. (And there's no deep tap root if you ever remove one)”

=> You mean using a regular reciprocating saw (maybe a more powerful one, like a 12A)?


“I can't see well enough to figure out the evergreen tree species (nor the other bushes). They sure look nice!”

=> Yeah, I like them too. They kind of resemble Christmas trees for me.

In the past, I used a chain saw and a pole saw to maintain trees and shrubs. I have shears and pruners but probably should invest in a power hedger too in the future.


Wow! Regarding gardens my know-how is very rudimentary. Maintain lawns, prune some trees and shrubs (not knowing much them) and growing small tomatoes plots. Thanks for all the wealth of knowledge!
 
With the pool chemicals, you need to start filtering as soon as possible. I can tell your phosphates are off the charts, and is the food needed to grow algae. Eliminate the phosphates and you will eliminate the algae. In my city, we have helicopters which fly around. If they see a green pool, expect a knock at the door within an hour, with a yellow tag ordering immediate clean up, since this is a breading ground for mosquitos.

The antifreeze is just for your pool equipment during the cold, freezing months. What I would recommend is to take a cup of that water to any pool supply business, and thru a computer analysis, will tell you exactly what and how much chemicals are needed to make that water fresh and good looking. The pool supply businesses do this for free with the hope you will buy your chemicals at the same location. For the most part, their prices are pretty reasonable except for the phosphate remover. My store wants $125 for a quart of diluted phosphate remover, so I purchase mine online thru Amazon for $42 for the full strength version. This makes 5 gallons.

I also apologize for my pool lecture as I know you were here for plant help, but I'm just trying to help you.
Right now, I am in Central Ohio and will be back to Fort Wayne, IN (where my new house is located) at the end of this week. Taking care of this pool situation is the first thing I will do once I arrive there.

One thing I noticed when I was there is that apparently there is not skimmer basket inside the skimmer, instead there were two empty 1 gallon jugs jammed there. It seems as if the jugs were pressed and jammed there in order to block large things to get through.

Also, I installed security cameras around the premises of the property. Today, upon checking the camera that faces the pool I could see what seems to be a duck hanging out around the pool deck and in the pool almost all day.

No need for apologies, that is an important matter you are warning and informing me about. Thanks!
 
Yup, arborvitae a.k.a. white cedar. A quick google search brought this up: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/thuja-occidentalis/
The trees by the pool appear to be hemlock.

A couple of quick notes on the pool:
A pool without the filter running is a pond. You'll find frogs and all sorts of swimming bugs in there...and apparently, a duck.
When you put chlorine in a pool, it is important to disperse it. Don't dump it in one spot - especially if you have a vinyl liner. Walk around the pool as you pour. It is best to get the pump running before you treat the water; otherwise the chlorine will just settle to the bottom.
 
but the pool and everything else came along with it.
I bought a house with a pool, once. Maintenance was easy: I bought a shovel and some yards of dirt. The reduction in home owner's insurance premiums more than paid for that.


So, indeed, those trees are very close to the garage and the pool deck, but só far there are no cracks in the immediate vicinity of those trees. Could the roots cause cracks or damage in areas further away (I would imagine that it would be much less likely to)?
I don't think they'll harm the pool deck because they don't tend to pop up like maple tree roots do. They're not as large either.

For the foundation, how they get in is a tiny tendril (for lack of a more pleasant word) digs at a part of the wall where it senses moisture. I think they must also like the alkalinity. It'll dig through and grow. They grow large rather quickly. When the roots grow, things break. That's how my porch and foundation got damaged.

You mean using a regular reciprocating saw (maybe a more powerful one, like a 12A)?
I just use my Porter Cable 738 Tiger Saw. I think it's 6.5 amps. The Milwaukke Sawzall and the Ryobi battery one also worked when I had those.

Dirt will dull blades very quickly, so if you have time to wait for delivery, I suggest buying blades on Temu Com since they are very low priced & work fine.
On Temu, I found 18" demolition blades with 6 TPI for 88 cents each. The negative aspect of Temu is that shipping usually takes 6 or 10 days to my house from China.

Wow! Regarding gardens my know-how is very rudimentary.
If you ever have time, take photos and go to Gardening Forums Com. People will help identify and will give care advice.
Also, the plant identifying apps that I mentioned earlier may be useful. Someone told me that Google Assistant can also identify plants from photos.
 
Here's a funny root cutting story you may enjoy:

Some years ago, I had to remove a very tall eastern white pine tree. Before trying to get the stump out, I used a long blade on a reciprocating saw and cut a circle about 20 or so inches deep around the stump. Removing the stump was much easier since the root mass only radiated about 10 inches around the stump.

Job well done? Not so much...

The next spring I had a perfect circle of white pines growing on my cut line. Oops!

Paul
 
Yup, arborvitae a.k.a. white cedar. A quick google search brought this up: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/thuja-occidentalis/
The trees by the pool appear to be hemlock.

A couple of quick notes on the pool:
A pool without the filter running is a pond. You'll find frogs and all sorts of swimming bugs in there...and apparently, a duck.
When you put chlorine in a pool, it is important to disperse it. Don't dump it in one spot - especially if you have a vinyl liner. Walk around the pool as you pour. It is best to get the pump running before you treat the water; otherwise the chlorine will just settle to the bottom.

Understood! Hopefully, I will get the the pump and filter running next week.

Yeah, the ducks I saw from afar (I am away) with one of the security cameras I installed there seemed to be having a great time and are taking residency there. I just took a peek at the live video stream from the backyard camera on my phone a moment ago, and they are still there:

1714709742875.jpg
 
I bought a house with a pool, once. Maintenance was easy: I bought a shovel and some yards of dirt. The reduction in home owner's insurance premiums more than paid for that.



I don't think they'll harm the pool deck because they don't tend to pop up like maple tree roots do. They're not as large either.

For the foundation, how they get in is a tiny tendril (for lack of a more pleasant word) digs at a part of the wall where it senses moisture. I think they must also like the alkalinity. It'll dig through and grow. They grow large rather quickly. When the roots grow, things break. That's how my porch and foundation got damaged.


I just use my Porter Cable 738 Tiger Saw. I think it's 6.5 amps. The Milwaukke Sawzall and the Ryobi battery one also worked when I had those.

Dirt will dull blades very quickly, so if you have time to wait for delivery, I suggest buying blades on Temu Com since they are very low priced & work fine.
On Temu, I found 18" demolition blades with 6 TPI for 88 cents each. The negative aspect of Temu is that shipping usually takes 6 or 10 days to my house from China.


If you ever have time, take photos and go to Gardening Forums Com. People will help identify and will give care advice.
Also, the plant identifying apps that I mentioned earlier may be useful. Someone told me that Google Assistant can also identify plants from photos.
“I bought a house with a pool, once. Maintenance was easy: I bought a shovel and some yards of dirt. The reduction in home owner's insurance premiums more than paid for that.”

=> Wow! That was a radical solution! Quick and dirt!


"I don't think they'll harm the pool deck because they don't tend to pop up like maple tree roots do. They're not as large either.

For the foundation, how they get in is a tiny tendril (for lack of a more pleasant word) digs at a part of the wall where it senses moisture. I think they must also like the alkalinity. It'll dig through and grow. They grow large rather quickly. When the roots grow, things break. That's how my porch and foundation got damaged.

=> I see, it is good to know. Apart from the three very tall trees (Evergreen or Norway Spruces [I was told]), I would imagine that the smaller trees should not have long and robust roots like a much bigger one – but I am sure there other factors to consider too.


"
I just use my Porter Cable 738 Tiger Saw. I think it's 6.5 amps. The Milwaukke Sawzall and the Ryobi battery one also worked when I had those.

Dirt will dull blades very quickly, so if you have time to wait for delivery, I suggest buying blades on Temu Com since they are very low priced & work fine.
On Temu, I found 18" demolition blades with 6 TPI for 88 cents each. The negative aspect of Temu is that shipping usually takes 6 or 10 days to my house from China.
"
=> Currently, I only have a ryobi cordless 20V and older corded harborfreight. I had a more powerful corded Dewalt, but it is gone. But one or the other should get it done.


“If you ever have time, take photos and go to Gardening Forums Com. People will help identify and will give care advice.
Also, the plant identifying apps that I mentioned earlier may be useful. Someone told me that Google Assistant can also identify plants from photos.”

=> Once I am done with some of the more urgent and pressing issues, I sure will look into the app and Gardening Forum Com. Sound like great resources, especially the forum.
 
=> Currently, I only have a ryobi cordless 20V and older corded harborfreight. I had a more powerful corded Dewalt, but it is gone. But one or the other should get it done.
The 20-v Ryobi will surely work. Mine was 7.2 volts and it was plenty strong. I suppose pick the saw that you don't mind getting dirty?

Apart from the three very tall trees (Evergreen or Norway Spruces [I was told]), I would imagine that the smaller trees should not have long and robust roots like a much bigger one
It all depends on the tree- and even sometimes sub-species.

Using A Silver Maple & An Eastern White Pine For Generic Examples:
A 6 foot tall silver maple will have far larger diameter roots than a 40 foot tall eastern white pine.
The maple's roots will extend about 3 or more times the diameter of the canopy. Pine roots stay closer to the mother ship.
Maple roots grow close to & sometimes above the surface. Pine grow deeper.
The pine's roots will be a tight, interwoven web to hold the tall tree up.
The tap root of the maple could be 4 or more feet deep. The pine won't have one.
Most maples do not have aggressive roots. Norway and Silver are two exceptions. They can bust through things that are in their way (as does my "why go around it?" dog buddy..)



Your arborvitae will have smaller root diameter than the Norway spruce, but those of the arborvitae are far more tenacious about seeking water. Therefore, the arborvitae's roots are more likely to get through a wall. Your spruce's root will encounter the wall and make a turn.

Also, your tall spruce will handle high wind or ice loading far, far better than the arborvitae- even it if it 10 times a tall. (Thanks in part to the root weaving.)

Personally, I'd rather have a Norway spruce near my house than maple. (We have 8 or so various species of maple on the fence lines. Our yard looks like a lunar landscape from the strong & determined roots. The big pines & little spruce peacefully exist.)
 
Adding greenery is like giving your home a makeover—fresh, vibrant, and totally fab! It's awesome to see you diving into your yard with such enthusiasm. As for the "mk library," sounds like a cool project! Mixing nature with knowledge—what a combo!

Thanks for your kind words! But it will take some time before I can start to learn with some level of depth and breadth -- too many things going on right now.
 
FORT_WAYNE_FRONT_HOUSE_LARGE_TREE3.jpg=> Currently, I only have a ryobi cordless 20V and older corded harborfreight. I had a more powerful corded Dewalt, but it is gone. But one or the other should get it done.
The 20-v Ryobi will surely work. Mine was 7.2 volts and it was plenty strong. I suppose pick the saw that you don't mind getting dirty?

Apart from the three very tall trees (Evergreen or Norway Spruces [I was told]), I would imagine that the smaller trees should not have long and robust roots like a much bigger one
It all depends on the tree- and even sometimes sub-species.

Using A Silver Maple & An Eastern White Pine For Generic Examples:
A 6 foot tall silver maple will have far larger diameter roots than a 40 foot tall eastern white pine.
The maple's roots will extend about 3 or more times the diameter of the canopy. Pine roots stay closer to the mother ship.
Maple roots grow close to & sometimes above the surface. Pine grow deeper.
The pine's roots will be a tight, interwoven web to hold the tall tree up.
The tap root of the maple could be 4 or more feet deep. The pine won't have one.
Most maples do not have aggressive roots. Norway and Silver are two exceptions. They can bust through things that are in their way (as does my "why go around it?" dog buddy..)




Using A Silver Maple & An Eastern White Pine For Generic Examples:
A 6 foot tall silver maple will have far larger diameter roots than a 40 foot tall eastern white pine.
The maple's roots will extend about 3 or more times the diameter of the canopy. Pine roots stay closer to the mother ship.
Maple roots grow close to & sometimes above the surface. Pine grow deeper.
The pine's roots will be a tight, interwoven web to hold the tall tree up.
The tap root of the maple could be 4 or more feet deep. The pine won't have one.
Most maples do not have aggressive roots. Norway and Silver are two exceptions. They can bust through things that are in their way (as does my "why go around it?" dog buddy..)



Your arborvitae will have smaller root diameter than the Norway spruce, but those of the arborvitae are far more tenacious about seeking water. Therefore, the arborvitae's roots are more likely to get through a wall. Your spruce's root will encounter the wall and make a turn.

Also, your tall spruce will handle high wind or ice loading far, far better than the arborvitae- even it if it 10 times a tall. (Thanks in part to the root weaving.)

=> Interesting. Lots of things consider.

On the topic of large trees, there is also a larger tree in front of the house. I noticed that the roots show on the surface and are very close to the foundation, but they don’t see threatening. The following pic depicts it:

FORT_WAYNE_FRONT_HOUSE_LARGE_TREE1.jpg


FORT_WAYNE_FRONT_HOUSE_LARGE_TREE2.jpg

FORT_WAYNE_FRONT_HOUSE_LARGE_TREE4.jpg

There are so many houses in the area with that type of trees similarly sized trees planted next to the house that... I don't feel that those root tentacles are a threat.
Note: sorry for the delay in following up. I was away and was waiting to be back in order to take the pics (above).
 
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Personally, I'm all about bringing nature's vibes indoors, especially with a cozy reading nook surrounded by leafy friends. It's like creating your own little jungle retreat right at home! And hey, who doesn't love a good read in the midst of greenery?"
Yeah, it looks like a real treat and a great atmosphere!
 
Recently heard an engineer talking about foundation walls. He mentioned that not only the roots of nearby tress are a problem, but the weight of the tree alone is enough to stress the wall.

More food for thought 🤔
 
Sure enough. That house was built in 1976, so it has passed the test of time, one may say. In a way, having an older house is a good thing.

I have heard lots o horror stories about shoddy new constructions.
 
Sure enough. That house was built in 1976, so it has passed the test of time, one may say. In a way, having an older house is a good thing.

I have heard lots o horror stories about shoddy new constructions.
I like your comment about shoddy new construction, TK3000!

My neighborhood was houses built from late 1800's to 1930's. (was...)
People and builders buy them, knock them down and build spiffy new McMansion houses.

They're all plastic! Siding, window trim, doors, floors, porches- everything is plastic. Many even have plastic shrubs.

When I walk down the street, I can hear televisions, conversations and even sometimes bathroom flushes from way down at the sidewalk. Older houses? One hears nothing!

Yep- Having an older house is a good thing!

Paul
 

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