nealtw
Contractor retired
We have lot's of houses built in the 60s & 70s with aluminum wiring, real problems when home owners mix the 2, they corrode really bad when mixed.
Replacing old light switches
- Thread starter MikeIsMad
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
We have lot's of houses built in the 60s & 70s with aluminum wiring, real problems when home owners mix the 2, they corrode really bad when mixed.
Some romex mfg. used aluminum in some romex as a grnd. conductor as a definer, for a while when they were transitioning to all copper.
The problem with connecting copper to Aluminum is not correctly following the process, or taking the time and that's where the failures occur.
The problem with connecting copper to Aluminum is not correctly following the process, or taking the time and that's where the failures occur.
Thanks again for all the replies.
I don't think the tabs are severed. I'll do some more testing this weekend when I have a bit more time but seems that possibly just remove that tab and the switch will then be working correctly.
As far as the aluminum grounds, this house was built in the 70's. I'm assuming that replacing with copper wouldn't be an easy task. So in the future, should I ground with copper wire attached directly to the screw in the junction box?
I don't think the tabs are severed. I'll do some more testing this weekend when I have a bit more time but seems that possibly just remove that tab and the switch will then be working correctly.
As far as the aluminum grounds, this house was built in the 70's. I'm assuming that replacing with copper wouldn't be an easy task. So in the future, should I ground with copper wire attached directly to the screw in the junction box?
The only tab to sever is the hot side, where the black and red conductor are connected.
While you are at it, and have the breaker off, use a small straight blade screwdriver inserted next to where the conductors are plugged into the back of the recp, to remove them and reattach them under the screws.
DO NOT sever the neutral tab or the switched, (red) halve of the recp. can not be energized by the switch.
The existing grnd. will work as connected.
Connecting the grnd. conductor to the box is known as bonding and it's something to keep in mind for future work.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I think most of the confusion ( disagreement ) in this thread is caused by the first post, so let's reset a little bit. I put additional letters on the sketch so that the cables are lettered in caps (A,B,C,D,) and even the wire nuts are labeled (a-f) so that we can use a common language.
If cable (romex) 'D' was the hot wire (hot line), then nothing else would work unless the #3 switch was on. Same for cable 'C'. So the hot line must be either A or B. My bet would be on cable A.
The three wire configuration (black, white, red) only suggests that the power comes from somewhere beyond the switch. It does not necessarily mean that an outlet is involved. This can be easily tested by disconnecting wire nut "f" and testing. There should only be one hot wire in that group.
I wouldn't be breaking off any tabs until I know the layout of this box.
Rather than try to suggest answers for all the various debates and questions in a single post, I'll stop here, and we can tackle this in a logical way.
If cable (romex) 'D' was the hot wire (hot line), then nothing else would work unless the #3 switch was on. Same for cable 'C'. So the hot line must be either A or B. My bet would be on cable A.
The three wire configuration (black, white, red) only suggests that the power comes from somewhere beyond the switch. It does not necessarily mean that an outlet is involved. This can be easily tested by disconnecting wire nut "f" and testing. There should only be one hot wire in that group.
I wouldn't be breaking off any tabs until I know the layout of this box.
Rather than try to suggest answers for all the various debates and questions in a single post, I'll stop here, and we can tackle this in a logical way.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
Can you prove it? or, better yet, how can the OP prove it?
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
oh, well then, thread closed.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I did. And the OP has not reported whether that was the fix....or not.
nealtw
Contractor retired
There are ways to connect copper to aluminum but for just the ground take aluminum to one screw and copper to a different screw.
ok guys. Sorry been a busy week.
I broke off the tab so that outlet has Ground, White, Red, Black and the switch that did nothing before now is now controlling the top outlet. Now it appears to be connected correctly but now I sort of wish it wasn't since my entertainment center it connected to that outlet.
I broke off the tab so that outlet has Ground, White, Red, Black and the switch that did nothing before now is now controlling the top outlet. Now it appears to be connected correctly but now I sort of wish it wasn't since my entertainment center it connected to that outlet.
nealtw
Contractor retired
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
just move the plug to the other socket. That should be live full-time
Thanks for the clarification.
This alternative evolved from the requirement to have a form of illumination that can be energized when entering a space, the other being a ceiling fixture, rather than stumbling around in a dark space searching for a light.
