Shower stubout questions

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum' started by opivy, May 6, 2012.

  1. May 6, 2012 #1

    opivy

    opivy

    opivy

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    So we just purchased our first home and the main shower had a leak in it. I removed the spout to find a small hole in the bottom of the stubout after sanding. It looks like they tried to putty the hole or maybe it was just sediment from the leak - not sure. The stub protrudes from tile and I anticipate I need to replace the stub and in doing so knock out the tile.

    I am taking a few pictures to see if anyone has an other ideas for what to do. I have experience sweating in copper just on DIY things throughout life, hot water tanks, sinks, toilets etc so I believe I am up to the task if I have to go for the entire job but I was hoping there was another simpler solution.

    I don't want to cobble it together, if there is just a right way and a wrong way please let me know.

    Photo #1 - straight on view
    Photo #2 - view from bottom of stub, where the hole is.
    Photo #3 - view from top of stub
    Photo #4 - angle view to see into tile
    Photo #5 - backed off view to see tiles

    IMG_20120506_105918[1].jpg

    IMG_20120506_105929[1].jpg

    IMG_20120506_105937[1].jpg

    IMG_20120506_105947[1].jpg

    IMG_20120506_110002[1].jpg
     
  2. May 7, 2012 #2

    kok328

    kok328

    kok328

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    Maybe try sweating some solder to close the hole. Probably came from overtightening the set screw for the tub spout and/or contact with a dis-similar metal (i.e.- the set screw itself).
     
  3. May 7, 2012 #3

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Is there a chance you can open the wall from behind, in the next room.
     
  4. May 7, 2012 #4

    CallMeVilla

    CallMeVilla

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    Solder repair would be not so permanent. I would not trust it.

    It looks like they used a coupling to attach the stub out. The tile looks like standard 4" white tile. Without sitting in your bathroom, I would resign myself to removing tile, cutting a larger hole, sweating off the coupling and removing the stub and coupling.

    At that point, you could clean up the remaining pipe and re-solder a new coupling and stub. You can then replace the missing tiles . . . or . . . get a "beauty rim" to hide the damage.

    Too bad but a permanent solution is better than a "maybe" solder fix.
     
  5. May 8, 2012 #5

    opivy

    opivy

    opivy

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    I ended up going to the back of the wall (which is in the kitchen) and finding the pipes. The problem is the copper is all up against wood etc and I have a map gas torch. I don't really feel confident sweating this out and not burning the house down.

    It is also massively complicated in the fact that the electrical box (for the house) is directly below the shower head and there is wiring all around this plumbing.

    I think I am going to call a professional and have him do this quick job. I am all for DIY but I'd like to watch how he handles working in this confine and near the wood and take some pointers.
     
  6. May 9, 2012 #6

    CallMeVilla

    CallMeVilla

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    Wise choice. BTW, when you do sweat pipes, keep a water sprayer close at hand. Any hint of a fire and you canspray the wood ASAP. The complication of the electricsl msin does give everyone a pause . . . why would they do that????

    Good luck.
     
  7. May 19, 2012 #7

    mpt1123

    mpt1123

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    I would try to sweat the pipe and fill the hole with solder. Another option is to use liquid copper to fill the hole. None of these options are good for a pipe that is under pressure, but this pipe is only filled with water when you run the tub and even then there's relatively little pressure. Call a pro and don't be surprised if he doesn't do the same thing (unless he's looking for work and recommends you rip everything out).
     

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