tongue and groove pine on ceiling

Discussion in 'Walls and Ceilings' started by Fredartic, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. Apr 17, 2013 #1

    Fredartic

    Fredartic

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    Is it possible to install t and g pine on ceiling, because I have seen somewhere that it could be a problem for the fire's code?

    What are the rules about it?

    Thanks
     
  2. Apr 17, 2013 #2

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    To be on the safe side you could drywall first and then cover it with pine. If the rafter are a 24" on center, 5/8 drywall would be required.
     
  3. Apr 17, 2013 #3

    Blue Jay

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    It is what I have throughout my log home. Looks great!
     
  4. Apr 17, 2013 #4

    Fredartic

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    is there gyproc under it?
     
  5. Apr 18, 2013 #5

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    It is a matter of thickness of the wood and the room it will be in. I would check with the city inspectors, but they may refer you to an engineer.
     
  6. Apr 18, 2013 #6

    Blue Jay

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    No, it is 3/4" thick wood. The only drywall we have is inside closets and the basement stair well.
     
  7. Apr 18, 2013 #7

    nealtw

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    Some structures are built with material that have a high fire rating and don't need to be protected with drywall but that will be the exception not the rule.
    Blue Jay; What is the stucture above the pine ceiling, size of rafters and type and thickness of sheeting?
    Fredartic; Same question.

    Keep in mind that codes change and anything done today should meet todays codes.
     
  8. Apr 19, 2013 #8

    Fredartic

    Fredartic

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    This is a mobile home built in 1983. I join some pictures of the structure but this is not where is the cathedral ceiling; this is where there were ice dams the winter before last year. The depth of the cathedral ceiling is 7 inches and half. I don't know if there are 2 x 8 or another design. The roof is metal roof. The rafters are 24 inches. We wanted to put t and g pine thinner than 0,5 inch.

    IMG_0066.jpg

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  9. Apr 19, 2013 #9

    Fredartic

    Fredartic

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    By the way, how should I patch the hole (8 x 8) in the wood panel of the roof?
     
  10. Apr 19, 2013 #10

    Blue Jay

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    Regular trusses with 10" of fiberglass, roof sheeting is 5/8 then ice and water barrier then shingles. My avitar is the home in question. By the way this was a kit from Lincoln Log in NY, self built to their blueprints.
     
  11. Apr 19, 2013 #11

    nealtw

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    They have some strange building practices. Besides that, the black stain on the sheeting looks like mold and should be tested. The blocks in the soffet vent area should not be there, unless you just have them there while it's open. The 8x8 hole was a roof vent, I hope they replaced it with a ridge vent, which you should be able to see from below thwe center. If you really want to fix the hole in the sheeting, Cut a 2x6 to the length of the distance between the trusses and nail a 7x7 peice of sheeting to it, slide it into place and nail thru the trusses to hold it in place. The lack of vapour barrier is just as bad as the ice dam for causing the mold in the attic and yes you need fire rated drywall.
    While you have it open throw in another stud on each side of the door and then at door knob height put a block between those studs and the next studs, that will keep the strangers out when your not home.
     
  12. Apr 19, 2013 #12

    Fredartic

    Fredartic

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    http://www.photocal.fr/features_-_photocatalyst_photocal.html

    That product pretends to control mold and mildew. I don't know for that product but in the house, I had pulverised all the area, the attic, the walls, the floor with a specific product used with a machine for that that I had rented at Home depot. Here's the link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-1-Gal-Mold-Control-Fogger-200-620810/100489874#.UXDpgbWQVmM

    Should I test the area? If it is recommanded to do that, what is the process? Can I do it by myself?
     
  13. Apr 19, 2013 #13

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    HD has a home test kit. It sure wouldn't hurt to know it was good before closing it up.
     
  14. Apr 19, 2013 #14

    Fredartic

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    Thanks, it will be a reason for another trip to HD. I will test it and be back with the result in few days.
     
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  15. Apr 20, 2013 #15

    Fredartic

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  16. Apr 20, 2013 #16

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Where I live you do?
     
  17. Jul 3, 2013 #17

    Fredartic

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    It's 16" on center, so is the drywall would be 5/8 or thinner?
     
  18. Jul 3, 2013 #18

    nealtw

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    I think TX drywall is 5/8 and it is rated for 1 hour of fire stop.
     
  19. Aug 10, 2013 #19

    Jungle

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    That looks bad with the black mold. It's funny how they say osb board is suppose to be mold resistant. It always seem to have the mold in a house. Have you been having allergy problems?
    There is no fixing that, it needs to be taken out. Or sell it, but you could be sued!
    As for the pine wood, i would mention a couple of things, 1) it can be heavy so your structure might not support it. I would chose a veneer. 2) Some people can have wood allergies too, something to think about before you wood your whole house.
     
  20. Aug 11, 2013 #20

    Fredartic

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    As I said before, I used a product with the machine for that purpose that is suppose to treat the mold. There is no odor in the house. It seems that the product did the job. Of course there is still the black color on the OSB, but no more mold. So, why replacing it? As I understantd, it could be a problem if it wasn't treated but it's not the case.

    For the t and g pine, I want to use a very thin product, just 5/16, so it isn't heavy, not much than the gypse. Actually, the gypse isn't 5/8, I think it is 3/8, so I imagine I can use 5/16 pine...
     

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