TRANE XE90 getting no power, no red light

Discussion in 'HVAC' started by reap70, Nov 13, 2015.

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  1. Feb 11, 2016 #21

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Between the 2 screws with white wires, there is a little tab that connects the 2 screws.
    Between the 2 screws with the black wires, that tab is missing, That would explain why you have no power to one side of the outlet.
    So now the question is was that cut out for a reason or was that something that just happened.
    Can you tell if it has been cut or melted or?
    I would not fix it until you have more info!
     
  2. Feb 11, 2016 #22

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Yes I get the photos now figuring out the wiring is above my pay grade.;)
     
  3. Feb 11, 2016 #23

    nealtw

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    Do you have a label that shows wiring diagram, the manual say it should be on the unit.
     
  4. Feb 11, 2016 #24

    kok328

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    I see line power coming in to power half an outlet (bridge on hot side is removed), a transformer on the bottom of the J-box to run a condensate pump or humidifier solenoid and finally an outlet for an EAC (electronic air cleaner).
    So with all this plugged in and switch turned on, you say you are not getting power to the door panel safety switch?
     
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  5. Feb 11, 2016 #25

    nealtw

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    Not sure he tested for power.
     
  6. Feb 11, 2016 #26

    kok328

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    What they have done here is brought in LINE power to the top of the convenience outlet.
    This power is shared and also feeds the furnace. The other two black wires are "outputs" from the control board to control the humidifier "HUM-H"/"E28" and electronic air cleaner "EAC-H"/"E7". The air cleaner plugs into the bottom of the outlet and the transformer under the J-box runs the water solenoid for the humidifier. Pic #8 is yet another transformer for low voltage control power (i.e.- the thermostat, etc).
    With the switch turned on, you should have power to the top of the outlet and the door switch and then onto the control board.
    If no power, then back up and see if you have power coming to the switch.
    Test these areas for power and lets see where it leads us next.
     
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  7. Feb 11, 2016 #27

    nealtw

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    When the switch is turned on he has power to the top of that outlet.
     
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  8. Feb 11, 2016 #28

    kok328

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    Ok, then he should have power into the door switch and out of the switch to the control board.
    Trane has a yellow 5 amp blade style fuse on the control board. If this is blown the entire unit will shut down.
    check for power up to the control board and also see if the fuse is good.
     
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  9. Feb 12, 2016 #29

    reap70

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    I went to test for power and the tester slipped out of my hands and the black tester wire broke (yes I bought a cheap one, it was the only one our local hardware store had). I have to get a new tester and will let you all know. The hardware store has a tester with a light on it, so I will at least know if power is going there. I can't drive, so it's a pain in the *** getting to the next town over with better hardware stores. Thanks for all of the great help!
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2016
  10. Feb 12, 2016 #30

    slownsteady

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    A couple of thoughts: the hot side of the outlet isn't bridged (small metal tab) because the lower outlet should only be hot when the furnace is running; (probably a plug-in EAC? or extra humidifier or something) The black wire on the top outlet brings power to the furnace and the furnace sends power back to the lower outlet when appropriate.
    @reap70; while you have the box open, ground your outlet.
     
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  11. Feb 12, 2016 #31

    nealtw

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    did you find the fuse.
    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnsaZa-5Duc[/ame]
     
  12. Feb 27, 2016 #32

    reap70

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    Sorry for the delay in responding. We got space heaters and I needed a break from this. So I got a tester and also drew out an awesome diagram! [​IMG]

    At the top, it shows 3 wires coming into the outlet that come from the on/off switch. The black one goes to the top screw on the right. The white one goes into the top screw on the left. The Dark Green one goes into a screw cap, then through the hole in the middle of the plug and into a ground screw.

    I tested all 4 screws for power with the tester and the tester lights up for all screws except the bottom right one, as you all pointed out earlier doesn't have the small clip connecting it to the one above it.

    As far as the 4 screws, the top left one has the white wire from the top going into it. The bottom left one has 2 wires, one leads to the box under the plug, the other leads to the control box Line-N, E7. The top right one has 2 wires (blk & blk1), the one going out the top and the other goes to the door switch. (I also tested the door switch wires and it is showing no power. The other door switch wire goes to the control box LINE-H, E15?) The lower right one, with no power going to it, has 1 wire (blk2) which leads to the control box EAC-H, E18. There is also a wire coming from the bottom box (blk3) which leads to the control box HUM-H, E28.

    After I typed this, I see I already explained it. LOL.

    Should I just go ahead and put a new outlet in?
     
  13. Feb 27, 2016 #33

    reap70

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  14. Feb 27, 2016 #34

    reap70

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    That is correct. I got a line tester and it is not lighting up when I connect the two wires to the switch.
     
  15. Feb 27, 2016 #35

    reap70

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    No power to the switch. What should I try next?
     
  16. Feb 27, 2016 #36

    reap70

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    YES! Now that you mention this, I do believe that when I had something plugged into the bottom outlet, it only worked when the furnace was running. That is why the tab it removed! (Like you said, you learn something every day! LOL)
     
  17. Feb 27, 2016 #37

    reap70

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    Just a thought. I'm starting to understand this more. Should I run a new wire from the door safety switch to the top screw on the outlet? It's starting to look like maybe that wire is bad since it runs directly from point A to point B.
     
  18. Feb 28, 2016 #38

    kok328

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    If you have power to blk1 and blk2 but not at the door switch then yes it would seem that you have a bad connection/wire.
     
  19. Feb 28, 2016 #39

    kok328

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    This isn't good. You should only be seeing power at the top right (blk1 & blk2).
    Also, remove the 30 amp fuse ASAP !!!!!
    If the 5 amp blew then you have a short somewhere in the control circuits 24VAC as explained earlier.
     
  20. Feb 28, 2016 #40

    reap70

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    I have power to blk1 (top right), but not blk2 (bottom right). I have no power at the door safety switch either, which is where blk1 runs directly to.
     

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