When I have walls over 8' I use a 54" sheet on the top and a 48" sheet at the bottom running horizontally .All you have is 1 factory joint in the center and very easy to finish at that height.
54" wide? Where do you find those?
If you are doing a ceiling by all means do it first. I agree with Neal it’s the easier way to make a tight looking corner and also the wall sheets being below it will help hold it up.
I have done the splice piece once and it worked really good and if I was stripped down to the studs I think I would run sheets across and do the splice at the end joints.
There is a company that makes the part but here is the DIY version.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/tips/invisible-drywall-butt-joints.aspx
I guess that's why pros make the money would have done things different. Just used 1/4 over existing plaster. Plaster and lathe in an 100 yr old house. Ran a level across bottom of drywall and cut then I cut some strips of drywall for the bottom. My mudding leaves something to be desired but I think it will work out, Thanks for the input. Next time will ask first.Sparky, makes a good point, standing them up requires that the layout of the studs is perfect.
60" drywall is fairly common around here for 9 and 10 foot ceilings. You won't find it at the home center but a drywall supply house will have it. If you're doing 9' ceilings you use one 5' wide and one 4' wide. For 10' ceilings use two 5's. I haven't seen 54" wide sheets which would be 4' 6" wide, not saying they don't exist I just haven't seen them. I don't work in the trades so there is a lot of stuff out there I haven't seen.
If you're hanging sheetrock on stud walls IMHO and in the pros opinion it is better than hang it horizontally. IF all your studs line up perfectly and you land on a stud in the center of it with the sheets vertically go ahead and go vertical. Or if you have a narrow wall and one sheet covers it go vertical. However, in real life you may find that your studs aren't perfectly spaced and cutting the factory tapered edge off is never my first choice. It isn't a big deal to shorten a piece on the 4 or 5 foot side to line up with a stud. Going horizontal allows you to stagger the butt joints which makes them less noticeable than a single joint from floor to ceiling.
If you can handle it working horizontally with 10's or 12's depending on the room dimensions can sometimes eliminate the butt joints.
yes,One horizontal seam with a tapered edge down the middle at a easy height to finish.In place of a vertical seam every 4' all the way down the wall.I see that horizontal layout a lot, and it always puzzles me. More seams and more butt ends to work with. I usually see the one long horz. seam across the wall.
That plywood trick still has me scratching my head.....
A freind of mine tried this and found the screw would pull thru the drywall before it would bend into place. He never thought of wetting it like you would when bending it in a curve.
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