Basement Framing for HVAC

[nealtw]

I want to do 2" thick rigid insulation again sedan the block, then 2x4 wall framed right against the insulation.

That will work tape the joints and that is the vapour barrier use a 6" blue skin
Under the wall and up the foam and that really seals it.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.blueskin-weather-barrier-6-inch.1000403475.html

 

[jjohnston]

Oh nice! I'll look into that! Would that replace the sil gasket or whatever it's called?

How long does it typically take for a beginner to frame a 16' x21' room?

 

[nealtw]

I haven't been a beginner for a long time. Yes that would be a replacement for sill gasket. Code is anything that will be a moisture break, tar paper, sheet poly. Sill gasket is cheap easy and is already 3 1/2" wide.

4 walls how may against the foundation? Any existing walls already built.

 

[jjohnston]

1 wall is already framed. I need to run 2 on exterior wall 21' side. And 1 in the middle. Will need to figure out how to attach that to the floor joists above, because that one 16' wall I think falls in between floor joists.

 

[nealtw]

1 wall is already framed. I need to run 2 on exterior wall 21' side. And 1 in the middle. Will need to figure out how to attach that to the floor joists above, because that one 16' wall I think falls in between floor joists.

14 1/2" + - blocks between joist every 3 ft or so and each end will be fine for holding the wall and to hang drywall.

Check that code again on the return ducts, make sure is doesn't just apply to attic and crawlspace.

 

[jjohnston]

Ok. So nail a board between the floor joists every 3' then nail the top plate to those...?

Do you think I could frame that 1 room in 3 8 hour days?

I know it's hard to say because everyone works at different speeds and has different abilities...

 

[nealtw]

Oops forgot about the drywall, I will get to it

Let's say the better part of of a day to glue up foam.
Measure and mark the floor 3 3/4" from foam at each end of the foundation walls, check those marks to the existing walls, you may need to decide where to hide the errors.
Find center of the room and mark 1 3/4" on each side of center in two places.
Find a real straight 2x4 and with a level transfer those marks to the ceiling
Two people needed to pull and snap a line with chalk line. All the lines.
Lay out the bottom plate with the gasket and attach to the floor unless you are using hand driven concrete nails leave that for later.
Starting in the inside corner, and put an X between 0 and 1 1/2" and a mark at 23 1/4 and an X on the far side of that. Tack a nail there and hook the tape to the nail and mark ever 24 inches and end with a an X on the other inside corner.

Or 15 1/4" and every 16" if you like, not needed in non bearing walls

Cut another set of plates to match the bottom plates and transfer the layouts on them, nail them to the ceiling start in the middle and work to the ends so you can bend out any warps there.

The center wall with no backing above the drywall cut out between the lines 3 1/2 by a 12 inches in three places slide a 18" block up inside and line it up with the lines and screw it in place with drywall screws so it covers the hole. You may want to put a screw in to use for a handle,
Replace the drywall you cut out and now you have something to screw to for the top plate.

One day, or less.

Closets? Door ways, windows?

 

[nealtw]

Not counting the foam, two of us would do that room before coffee break if the lumber pile was close at hand, but my grandson didn't need a ladder and we had nail guns, nail shooter for the floor, chop saw and didn't have to take time to think about it.

You have choices where the center wall meet the other wall you can just add 4 blocks between the studs on the long wall or just back the end stud with a 2x6 stud or 2 2x4s all or just put a stud in both inside corners. you do want to tie the corners together like in the corner for the two foundation walls just nail a block to one of those studs on the backside so the second one can be nailed to the block.

 

[nealtw]

I posted a thread for a cheater for measuring studs.
http://www.houserepairtalk.com/showthread.php?p=163942#post163942
If you are hand nailing into concrete do that last so the studs hold everything in place. 1 3/4" is all you need and then they only have to poke the concrete

 

[Snoonyb]

I guess my reason for double top plates are, length. max length I can get is 20' for wood locally. So I need to build walls in multiple sections. Code says I need to stager my top plates for strength, so I figured, double wall plate, have the top plate extend 2' past the 2nd top plate, and I fulfilled my requirement.

Building walls in sections and standing them, is typical wall framing and the lap is 4'.

But you are building non-bearing interior partitions.

U.S. standard stud length is 92-1/4, 95, 96 and 108".

My basement measures 8'4" from the cement to the bottom of the floor joists above. So either I have a 1" gap or I do a double top plate, and cut the 8' studs down a half inch? but am open to suggestions of better ideas.

However, from the floor to the drywall would then be 8' 3-3/8", so were I you, rather than a double top plate, I'd rip a sheet of 3/8" OSB.

Code changed here in Minnesota in 2015, that now all cold air returns need to be ducted. we can no longer use the space between the studs...

Is the return air duct within the floor joists or below the basement ceiling drywall.

For dropping the return air duct down the wall, do I simply leave a gap in the top plate, or try and cut it out? or does the HVAC person do the cutting?

I'd lay the walls out on the ceiling and ask the HVAC vendor to stop by and lay it out, then stand the walls leaving a space for the returns.

Intended occupancy is 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom, 1 media room, and 1 family room. I think code states that all bedrooms need to have a supply and a return. My media room will be sealed off from the rest of the basement, so its a separate room. Not completely air tight, but as tight as I can get it without going crazy about it.

Does each bedroom in the floors above each have their own individual return, or a centrally located return?

I understand the sealing of the media space for tow way noise reduction.

 

[nealtw]

U.S. standard stud length is 92-1/4, 95, 96 and 108".

http://www.atlanticforest.com/product/precut-studs-pet/

I didn't know you had a section like that.

Ours are 92 1/4
104 1/4
116 1.4.
Anything like 96 or 120 would be plus up to 1/4 inch and could not be trusted to be all the same.

 

[Snoonyb]

These are mill standard stud lengths and there is no variation board to board.

Also, before the OP starts banging walls together, he needs to map out the elec. and internet, and determine how he's going to get them into the walls and ceiling.

He's more than likely going to have a lot more drywall repairs than anticipated.

 

[nealtw]

Up here it is the outside walls that finished and half that drywall gets torn out to fix wiring and such.

 

[Snoonyb]

If he plans it right he can have one side of the walls drywalled before the inspection so the inspector can see the process and have some level of confidence in his abilities.

 

[jjohnston]

Some of the comments are making me nervous. Not sure if I should just hire a company... if I did what would I look for? Rough carpenter companies?

 

[Snoonyb]

There can be complications, which are overcome by planning, asking and thinking the project through.

You've been afforded the basics, now the planning, placement of equip., doors, etc.

By the way, in your room layout have you taken into consideration, egress windows for the bedrooms?

 

[nealtw]

Some of the comments are making me nervous. Not sure if I should just hire a company... if I did what would I look for? Rough carpenter companies?

We are here to help, and best if you develop the whole plan of action.

 

[jjohnston]

I've decided to hire an hvac company to do that part. They quoted me 1,700. But I wanted to do framing and electric myself. My plan was frame it all, have hvac done, then do electric and low voltage, then have drywall done, then paint, then have trim done. I have a layout I will try and upload and get suggestions as soon as I get to a computer.

 

[jjohnston]

Oh I would have plumbing done for me too.
I would invite the inspected out after all installed but before drywall and pull a permit just before inspection. That suggestion came from the city inspector.

 

[nealtw]

I guess my reason for double top plates are, length. max length I can get is 20' for wood locally. So I need to build walls in multiple sections. Code says I need to stager my top plates for strength, so I figured, double wall plate, have the top plate extend 2' past the 2nd top plate, and I fulfilled my requirement.

My basement measures 8'4" from the cement to the bottom of the floor joists above. So either I have a 1" gap or I do a double top plate, and cut the 8' studs down a half inch? but am open to suggestions of better ideas.

Code changed here in Minnesota in 2015, that now all cold air returns need to be ducted. we can no longer use the space between the studs...

For dropping the return air duct down the wall, do I simply leave a gap in the top plate, or try and cut it out? or does the HVAC person do the cutting?

Intended occupancy is 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom, 1 media room, and 1 family room. I think code states that all bedrooms need to have a supply and a return. My media room will be sealed off from the rest of the basement, so its a separate room. Not completely air tight, but as tight as I can get it without going crazy about it.

Hmmm: I missed this answer. In the main part of the house double plates are required so joists landing above don't have to land above the stud and the plates can be overlapped for strength. But with this high ceiling I would use 2 just to shorten the studs and as pointed out adding plywood to get down to 8 ft or less would be good too.