nealtw
Contractor retired
In Canada all lumber needs a grade stamp within 2 ft of one end, Lumber yards carry all the grades or most of them. To save space it could be that the box store only stock #2 but the grade should be there.
Basement Framing for HVAC
- Thread starter jjohnston
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
nealtw
Contractor retired
Grade has to do with knots and defects and where they are in the board.
For years we built with hemfir, which was a mix of fir and hemlock.
nealtw
Contractor retired
I see their lumber like 2x8 is listed as #2 so it could be the mill doesn't cut studs out of anything less.
nealtw
Contractor retired
A different set of tools and maybe a different set of standards. Electrical wires are protected, That would be the first thing I would check on extra work and expense.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Can you post some pictures of the mechanical room from different angles.
Steel studs; Snips, screw gun, ramset/tapcons and a level, lighter weight easier to haul, and faster assembly.
Wood; Saw, nail gun, compressor, hoses, drill, various bits, ramset/tapcons and a level.
nealtw
Contractor retired
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlFg8fiDAhE[/ame]
They have have made the corner trickier than it has to be.
They have have made the corner trickier than it has to be.
it looks fairly straight forward, but time spent cutting each stud, seems longer than a chop saw to cut a 2x4? Plus I worry I would need to start all over again with my code research, etc.
Is warping of studs a huge problem that people run into? I think that's the thing I worry most about.
Is warping of studs a huge problem that people run into? I think that's the thing I worry most about.
nealtw
Contractor retired
I have never done steel studs but the pros I have seen do it use a metal cutting chop saw and cut studs 1/4 short to allow for what ever, might be better for sound proofing, just guessing.
Thanks! I think I'll stick with wood. do I need to worry about warped studs? Is it legal to pull the warp out, like placing a wood brace between a non warped stud and a warped on? or is it best to place it aside and return it later? Not sure how much of a problem warping is?
nealtw
Contractor retired
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw7cavIpgm4[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGSe24Tb9yc[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaCdxV4hTmw[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGSe24Tb9yc[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaCdxV4hTmw[/ame]
nealtw
Contractor retired
Dry studs are not usually a problem, what you see is what you get. All lumber has a crown and you want the crown going the same way in all studs. When you nail doubles together like window or door frames you put one each way and you bend them to line up and they will hold each other straight.
Yo might find a few that go wild after you have built the wall. But seldom since we quit using hemlock wets.
Steel studs for your project is a one man job.
There are very specific requirements for toe nailing, and it isn't 1 nail in each end of each stud, it's more like 4-8D in each end of each stud.
Where I use 2, 7-20X7/16 in the bottom and one in the top. You can cut the studs inmasse with a chop-saw or about 3sec. with a snips.
Wire with BX or flex and your CAT just drop in the wall.
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nealtw
Contractor retired
Two 3" nails is code for 2x4s
You are holding the steel in your hand, reach into your tool bag for your snips and 3sec. you are done.
With wood you have to drag it over to the saw or cut it and set the saw down.
A waste of time.
Steel doesn't warp, but it does twist, but is pulled straight when screwing the drywall.
Each end when conventional framing, and if he is setting the sil and top plate separately, it's toe nailing.
Remember, he is in MN and has not submitted the plan for plan check, where those standards will be revealed to him.
