Extension of drain pipe and sewer pipe connector replacement?

[nealtw]

Don't loose any sleep about that.

 

[jmr106]

That's a nice blade and it's new to me, the cheaper metal blades would work too, but I would go for that one. Don't go at full speed, take your time when cutting metal.

Fortunately, I happened to buy something similar to this a while back.

I think the one pictured is an older 4amp version. This one is a 7amp. One-handed with dual led lights on either side of the blade. The torque isn't too bad and it cuts pretty clean one-handed. That should come in handy when I need my other hand to grab the pieces of the falling pipe. If I tried to cut it with one of the full-size sawzalls, I'd probably be banging around everywhere, stirring up all kinds of dust, dropping pipe pieces as they were cut, etc. I'm going to use the slower, non-orbital mode. The orbital feature cuts better and more aggressively, but I'd probably cut more of my hand than the pipe.

I'm trying to imagine what kind of stuff I'm dealing with in that water. Drain pipes are nasty in themselves, of course. The sink drain pipe...old food, dirty water, dish water, hands washed with raw meat and such. So I'm assuming there may be E.Coli in that big puddle of water down there. Typhus apparently loves to live in sewer pipes, as well. From what I have read in some places, breathing sewer fumes can potentially give you Typhus fever. That's not exactly comforting. I don't even want to imagine what kind of bacteria has been breeding in that 66 year old sewer pipe. I have been debating whether to use 2-3 layers of smaller gloves (which tend to break) or something like those long blue or green chemical gloves that go up to the elbows for the kitchen sink pipe. I'm a contacts wearer, so I'm probably going to throw some chemical goggles on.

 

[nealtw]

Slide a chunk of 2x10 in there so you can work off that and stay out of the mud.
Pick up a roll of rebar tie wire, a few nails in a joist and a few wraps of wire near the cuts so it doesn't fall down.

 

[frodo]

you need to dig up the sewer outside your house
dig up the sewer under your house
and replace everything from outside in

sounds like your place has been patch this patch that for years,
time to stop patching and remove and replace the plumbing under the house

 

[frodo]

let me know when/ after you get the bio hazard cleaned up

we can start then

 

[jmr106]

I have a half face respirator. Do you think P100 filters would be sufficient for everything I would encounter?

 

[frodo]

I have a half face respirator. Do you think P100 filters would be sufficient for everything I would encounter?

that will be fine,

 

[jmr106]

I need to go out and buy everything that I need first. I'm going to see if I have time tomorrow to change out the leaking kitchen drain pipe. Unfortunately, work hasn't been permitting for pre-purchase. I'm probably going to have to chase some stuff down at a variety of places

First plan is to pump that water out of there before doing anything else. Probably will just go with a cheap drill pump. Seems to be around $5-$10 on average. It will be tossed after it has served its purpose. Not hanging onto anything that I can't disinfect properly (internally) after use. It will (knock on wood) be a nice sunny day outside at 94 degrees, so that water should dry up rather quickly and the sun should help kill any bacteria.

Out of curiosity, is lye the only thing that would work to disinfect it the areas? Do they make anything that I could buy that might do something similar? I'm kind of curious how I'm going to get that much powdered down there and spread out properly without getting it all over me. I'll be using some type of thick plastic material and such so work on and possibly to throw on top of the muddy hole that would then have lye in it. Is it going to eat through that eventually? I'm going to go with the tyvek coveralls, respirators, closed goggles, thick gloves, etc. At the same time, I don't want to get it all over the gloves I'm going to be using to touch the drill, sawzall, pipes, etc. I've never worked with lye and it is apparently pretty caustic. Will it eventually go away or lose its alkalinity when left? Is this something I should put down by hand with thick chemical gloves, shovel it or something else? I'm kind of wondering how (even though I'm not focusing on the sewer pipe just yet) I'm going to get lye onto the floor joists and such without getting it all over me. I could put some in the other area where the toilet pipe is (which I'm not trying to fix as of yet), but it is just going to leak more on top of it until I have this other pipe successfully ran and can actually disinfect it knowing that the sewer pipe will be changed soon.. The toilet pipe leaks in drips. This drain pipe pours out in probably a gallon or two per minute, so I'm trying to fix that since the sink gets so much use. The other reason why I want to change the entire sink drain pipe down to the sewer line is because I think it may still have a clog in it somewhere. It seems like all of the water going down the sink is coming out of the hole. If I had to guess based on what I saw, that hole is somewhere around nickel-sized to quarter-sized.

It appears that Home Depot does in fact carry the nicer reinforced couplings, so I hopefully won't have to be ordering that stuff online. I'll get down there and measure the size of the pipe joining the sewer line (not too hard to get to, compared to going all the way to the other end). Maybe it is just a trick to the eyes, but the kitchen drain pipe that joins the sewer end looks a little "smaller" and different than the size of the pipe where the actual leak is. Maybe it is just an illusion and my eyes.

 

[jmr106]

you need to dig up the sewer outside your house
dig up the sewer under your house
and replace everything from outside in

sounds like your place has been patch this patch that for years,
time to stop patching and remove and replace the plumbing under the house

So I'd eventually have to dig up the part that is going into the dirt and under the house foundation, running out into the back yard? I'm generally all in for doing everything completely, but she's not planning on being here long enough for it to be worthwhile to change the entire length in the yard. Plus, I'm trying to take care of typical stuff at my place on the side, too. Gets a little challenging.

 

[frodo]

if you want to get out cheap

just replace the 2'' line going to the kitchen sink and lie the ground the cover in plastic. walk away



as far as the lye/lime goes. it kills and eats bio material. you can use lime, or lye your choice

i suggested before, get a tyvek suit that i posted a link on

it is a full body suit that zips up

they cost like 8 bucks., rubber gloves, tape the sleeves closed over the gloves


you will get the lye/lime all over you. that is WHY is said get the suit

take a paper plate, fill it full of lie and throw it all over the place.

repeat, repeat, repeat till it looks like a blizzard hit the place.

cover the lye earth with plastic visqueen

 

[jmr106]

as far as the lye/lime goes. it kills and eats bio material. you can use lime, or lye your choice

I don't know much about lye or lime. Any chance that the lime is less caustic? It isn't that I don't want to put something down to disinfect it. I'm just wary of how caustic it is. I don't want anyone getting into it in the future and getting their skin eaten up (even future owners, anyone that they have do repairs, etc.). I know that the plastic will be over it, but it has me thinking about it. I'll be picking up quite a few of those coveralls. I've looked at them previously when exploring my options for the crawlspace.

Does lime or lye have a smell to it? Will I be able to notice it in the house?

 

[frodo]

you need to kill the bacteria, do a google search on the msds of lime

 

[jmr106]

Well, that project definitely wasn't going to happen today given the time after I got everything. As I figured, I had to go to a variety of places to get what I needed. I knew that by the time I got back, it would be too late to start the project anyway. Didn't get a chance to measure the pipe and it wouldn't have done me any good anyway since it was so late. I'll measure that sometime this week and figure out what size I need (pretty sure that's a 2 inch by eyeballing it). The lye/lime, primer/glue, pipes and fittings will be picked up early in the morning on a final run when I get my next off day.

Checked out the fittings. Home depot has what they called "shielded" fittings for cast iron to pvc, but they look like knockoffs and definitely aren't Fernco. I couldn't even find a brand name on it. Is the quality difference between generic worth it or is Fernco just a general name that many people use to describe that type of fitting? I noticed that the shielded fittings are apparently quite unique in that the pipe clamps themselves are riveted in place on at least one side to keep them in the right spot. It had two clamps on each side and some kind of metal reinforcement between the clamps and the rubber.

Priced the PVC pipe and it seems pretty reasonable (not so for that darned sewer pipe in the next project, it seems). Probably will be picking up about 3 lengths (30 feet) because it is a pretty good distance from the front drain to the back sewer pipe and goes diagonal for a lot of that.

Picked up some P100 filters (old ones weren't good), a few hooded tyvek coveralls just in case something tears or I need more than one, visqueen (they only had 3.5 mil, but 10ft x 25 ft and I could double it over if need be), a few pairs of heavy duty neoprene long gloves (chemical gloves) in case one tears or for the next project, 5GPM drill pump, a cheap sacrificial garden hose to gut and connect to the pump so that I can drain the water a good distance from the house, an extra carbide blade in case I encounter any difficult with cutting, etc. Anything extra can always be returned later, but I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

So, I'll be checking back in after I have everything ready to go.

I gotta say, that crawlspace gives me the heebie jeebies every time I look at the video that I shot a while back of the leak and to get better photos (I screen grab from the video and turn it into photos instead of taking a zillion photos trying to get proper lighting down there). I haven't had time to properly seal that crawlspace door or the vents yet, but sometimes I'm tempted to set off those Raid fumigators early considering the endless webs right above where I'm going to be working. Did I say how much I dislike spiders in enclosed spaces? I should invite The Munsters over for tea...they'd love it down there.

When I go down to measure the drain pipe, I'm going to see if I can get some solid panoramas of the sewer pipe (for the next project) configuration all in one photo. The photos of separate pieces of pipe here and there make it rather confusing.

 

[frodo]

hey man,,, get some plumbers strap

before you cut the cast iron, add a piece of strap on each side of the cut. so it will not fall on your head turn you into an electrician

 

[jmr106]

hey man,,, get some plumbers strap
before you cut the cast iron, add a piece of strap on each side of the cut. so it will not fall on your head turn you into an electrician

I actually have an entire roll of that from a project a long time ago. 100' of 3/4" steel hanger strap. I'll just have to be careful...that stuff sure has some sharp edges that I learned about quickly. Hang it up ahead of time to keep the pipe from falling, slide the pipe out sideways and stick the new pipe on the hanger while I glue it.

 

[slownsteady]

Here's some info you might find interesting...
http://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...-disinfect-the-crawl-space-with-bleach.48069/

Note to some of the old-timers here: guess who provided the long, detailed answer in this thread....Nestor!

 

[jmr106]

Note to some of the old-timers here: guess who provided the long, detailed answer in this thread....Nestor!

Isn't that the guy who passed a while back? I think a little while after I joined here, I saw some of his posts. He locked horns with a few people, from what I remember. haha But he seemed like a really good guy with a lot of knowledge. The good ones always seem to go early.

 

[slownsteady]

Yep, the same guy, no doubt. That struck me especially significant; that his posts live on.

 

[jmr106]

Fumigation of the crawlspace completed this morning. Wednesday I'm going to try to pack in everything. Pump out the water, disinfect, cover it with plastic and change out the length of pipe.

Questions:

I saw a guy cutting a cast iron pipe with a sawzall in a youtube video. It was coming out of the ground and going into the dirt and it was a larger pipe like the sewer pipe that I'm eventually going to do. The guy used WD-40(!) as a lubricant while cutting. Seems like a fire hazard. Obviously, that blade is going to get hot. Should I worry about the blade warping or sparking when I cut the smaller drain pipe? Do I need to lubricate it with anything?

Also, obviously nobody can use the kitchen sink while I work on the drain pipe. That sink drain pipe looks to be maybe half of a foot above the actual sewer line that it branches off from. Should I be concerned about toilet flushes causing water to come up to and out of that level of the sink drain pipe?

 

[nealtw]

I have never thought of using oil or anything just a blade made for metal and cut slowly.
For a pipe that measures less than 2" I would just use a skill saw with a metal cutting disc.
Even with a 4" I would start with the skill saw for one pass and then cut thru to the other side with the sawsall.