Framing on concrete issue

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You have a door in sight, do you have stairs, we are hoping they are square to each other or we choise which one we want to use.
At the corners of the wall with the door measure out 4 1/2 inches from both wall in both corners and put a chaulk line across in front of the door. Then check the distance from the line to the door at both sides of the door. Move one end of the line out untill it lines up the door straight.
 
Well the pipe is about 5inches from the concrete wall so when using two by fours I'm able to build the wall behind the pipe and I'm just going to leave the pipe exposed
 
That's another reason why I don't want to have to bring the wall too far off the concrete wall
 
Yup, these guys didn't make it easy.
How wide are the stairs?
With a straight 2x4 and a level, level down from the stair stringer and mark the floor. Pull a chaulk line across that spot and the edge of the stringer at the floor, stretch it out longer and snap a line. Check the measurement from that line to the wall behind the stairs. Is it straight? Better would be to move the line 1" away so the stringer dosn't interfear with the string.
 
sounds like a plan. Make sure you have clearance at top and bottom to get a plumb wall. Also check in several places along the pipe to be sure that the clearance doesn't vary too much.
 
Well if ur trying to find the straightness of the concrete wall why not hold a line about one inch away from the wall at the two ends of the wall then you can see how close the string is to the wall at the center
 
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With a straight 2x4 and a level, level down from the stair stringer and mark the floor. Pull a chaulk line across that spot and the edge of the stringer at the floor, stretch it out longer and snap a line. Check the measurement from that line to the wall behind the stairs. Is it straight? Better would be to move the line 1" away so the stringer dosn't interfear with the string
At the corners of the wall with the door measure out 4 1/2 inches from both wall in both corners and put a chaulk line across in front of the door. Then check the distance from the line to the door at both sides of the door. Move one end of the line out untill it lines up the door straight.

I doubt they are straight but it is worth looking at to see if it attainable. As one is the side and the other is the end and if they meet we can check them for square.
 
Ok currently I can't check those measurements and its late where I am so I will get back to this within the next few days and let u know
 
If the funace is in the way you can transfer that line close to the other wall and where the two lines meet you can check for square. The formula is 3,4,5 or 6,8,10 or 9,12,15 the bigger the better. You measure from the intersection 9ft on one line and 12 ft on the other. Then distance across those two points should be 15ft
 
I'm curious as to what your construction plan actually is. I don't know what you're trying to accomplish but I'm wondering if it can be done by another means, such as attaching the studs directly to the wall.
 
Ok so here's a little back story that might help. Fist I am 17 and have spent three years in a construction shop in school. I know most of the basics but this project is defiantly going to be one of my biggest projects.
The condo itself belongs to my older sister and brother. My brother is giving me 1000$ to finish the basement. So I took the offer to add to my expirence and to try something challenging. Now keep in mind I am going to be doing this project without a permit but I want to do it as officially as possible.
Now the basement isn't the best quality and there was defiantly previous water damage but there is no current water problem and its actually pretty dry. You enter the basement through a set of stairs and under the stairs is a water furnace and a heat furnace this is also where they have the dryer and washer. There is also an uninsulated door that leads up to a bulkhead. Now the walls are concrete all the way up to the finished ceiling and the concrete floor is no where near to level or straight. I included a diagram of the room and all the pictures I currently have of it.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Repair1437497607.475221.jpg

So I also had my uncle come in and look at it (he is an experienced construction manager). He told me to do the following-
Frame the walls using normal wood but make the bottom plate pressure treated. He told me to frame a room around the laundry area (including the furnace an the water heater). He also wanted me to frame a closet at the end of the stairs to encase the gas meter and the electrical panel. He told me not to worry about the pipe that runs across the wall because it will end up visible in the final result. As for the door he told me it was not a normal door size and I would have to take out the door and just reframe a better sized door in front of it. As for the floor (which Is very uneven and not even close to level) he told me to put down some self leveling compound in the lower spots after I have framed the walls. However he did notice the bump where the floor meets the concrete wall (this bump is present in most of the floor to wall junctions besides maybe one wall) and he told me to just lay the plate down over it. He told me those things along with what type of insulation and sheet rock to use. so I'm not really understanding how to build around this lump and that's what i was trying to ask in my original post. I was just thinking of trying to cut the shape of the bump into a two by four and trying to do that but that seems far too difficult especially since the floor is also all wavy . Some one recommended earlier to just chisel away at the lump (I have a grinder I can also use) and I personally think that would be the best way to go if it will cause no problems. So any questions comments or suggestions?
 
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