Framing on concrete issue

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You could cut the concrete out to get a plumb wall and level floor at that area but I think, as your uncle pointed out, it would be easier to frame over it.
I would think the easiest way to figure it is to angle the bottom plate to maybe 45 degrees, or whatever fits over that fill, and cut the stud ends to fit. Think of it as if you were building a wall at a right angle to cathedral ceiling rafters. The top plate would be pitched the angle of the rafters and the tops of the studs would be cut at angles to attach to the plate.
You're doing the same except...upside down.
 
Ya that was my original plan but I just thought it would be a bit time consuming but I got time. I have another question. The floor is all wavy and there is like a 2.5 in difference in some of the spots sorta like the line in the picture I included. I was thinking of just tracing the contour on to one of my plates and kind of feathering out the difference View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Repair1437527412.611100.jpg
 
Have you thought about leveling the floor, it would have to be done in layers
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYuSOH0IP7k[/ame]
 
I would mount the plate level. All the cuts for the studs would be the same. If they want the floor level, I would do that first.
 
If you pin the plate down (wet lumber) it will take the shape of the floor within reason. But 2" over a short distance would be asking to much.
 
Ya I considered It but with such a difference in the floor it can get real pricy. My uncle said to just fill the really low spots after I'm done framing.
 
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I would do some leveling first. When we do this we run into basements that are never quit level. We pin the plate to the high spots and cut each stud to fit. We then install the studs with top and bottom plate in place.
To pin the plate down we drill a 3/16" hole add 2 peices of tie wire and drive a 3" galvinized nail in. For a more level floor we use the gun that shoots the nail in with a 22 shot.
 
I have a budget on the basement so I can't completely level out the entire room because of how expensive it would end up being.
So do you think I should double up on the bottom plates so I can get around that lump with one then have a full one to nail the studs to
 
Well there are three walls I have to frame up against. The wall with the door has the lumps and the wall adjacent to that has it but the wall opposite the wall with the door doesn't. So 3 walls 2 have the lumps
 
Then I will go back to what I suggested yesterday, I will try to explain it differently.
Build a curtain wall that hangs from the ceiling and does not quit reach the bumps. attach blocks to the concrete wall right beside some studs. Level the wall and nail the studs to the blocks on the wall.
Now you have a wall attached to the ceiling and the concrete wall a few inches from the floor. Now you can scribe a 2x4 standing on it's side to fit to the floor some carving on the back maybe to clear the lumps.
 
Ok I think I understand now but what's the point of putting in the piece underneath if the wall is already secure. Also wouldn't the gap between the bottom of my hanging wall and the concrete floor very significantly. Maybe so significantly that the thickness of the two by four wouldn't fill the gap
 
2x4 on edge is 3 1/2 inches high. It would be backing for the drywall and floor molding at the floor and if it was still a little off the floor , it wouldn't hurt but you could use a 2x6.
 
Ok that makes sense. Just a couple more questions. Should I put the blocking like every other stud? And does anything need to be anchored to the floor or am I just securing that under piece to the bottom plate?
 
If the blocks on the wall are low, one about every four feet should do it but you can judge that when you build it. The 2x4 at the bottom want to be stiff enough so you can nail to it. Perhaps a cant strip behind the 2x4 would give it more support. A cant strip is a 2x2 ripped length way on the 45*, that would clear the lumps on the floor.
 
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