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It's pretty straight forward for me, and the determining factor for weather it will last, will be the dia., #, depth and rebar cage installed of the foundation.

There should already be a line to follow described by the existing floor material.

I'd still remove the front section of roof because the down pressure resulting in the tendency toward a parallelogram has caused a lot of the connectors being loose and marginal at best.
 
Snoonyb said:
It's pretty straight forward for me, and the determining factor for weather it will last, will be the dia., #, depth and rebar cage installed of the foundation.

There should already be a line to follow described by the existing floor material.

I'd still remove the front section of roof because the down pressure resulting in the tendency toward a parallelogram has caused a lot of the connectors being loose and marginal at best.
Click to expand...

There might be a few ways to fix this or maybe it should come down but I want to know what everything is before giving the OP those choices.
Any ideas on how to hold it all together if we lift it that will still let things go back together when the weight is applied later.
 
I think I addressed that on pg.13, msg #121.

6 pgs. ago.
 
The wing wall was suppose to support the beam over the door, would you take the whole wall down, as both sides have to be fixed?
 
Every job needs new toys these are just a few thing you can start looking for bargain on.
New or used, good or cheap, don't care, usually it is the blade in a saw that makes a difference, if you not sure, check back with us before you buy.
5 ft digging bar
7 1/4 circular saw
hammer drill
20 ton jack, Cheap at home depot, I usually don't use jacks but having two on site is not a bad idea.
sawall

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5004.jpg

5001.jpg
 
nealtw said:
The wing wall was suppose to support the beam over the door, would you take the whole wall down, as both sides have to be fixed?
Click to expand...

The entire door wall is a separate element and can be detached from the wall whose support has rolled, and I'm not advising to take either down.

Facing the door wall from the outside, the deflection of the left wall is from the effect of compression, which remedying the right wall, pulling the left wall to plumb, reattaching the door wall and adding shear panel will correct.
 
Snoonyb said:
The entire door wall is a separate element and can be detached from the wall whose support has rolled, and I'm not advising to take either down.

Facing the door wall from the outside, the deflection of the left wall is from the effect of compression, which remedying the right wall, pulling the left wall to plumb, reattaching the door wall and adding shear panel will correct.
Click to expand...

I don't think so, you have the weight of the roof coming down on the door jacks.
It would have been better if the door beam had gone right to the corners? maybe
 
nealtw said:
I don't think so, you have the weight of the roof coming down on the door jacks.
Click to expand...

How do you convert a rectangle to a parallelogram, without compressing a corner.

nealtw said:
It would have been better if the door beam had gone right to the corners? maybe
Click to expand...

In hind-site maybe it would have taken longer, but it was an eventuality.
 
So I been a little confused on what I need to do. Can we try to work together and agree with a step 1? It seems I have to figure out measurements, string lines, things like that? Is that correct and agreed upon or is there something else I should do first?
 
I would forgo the string line and the dimensioning, because you should have a relatively clear line described by the separation between the floor and the deflected wall and rely on a tape measure and an established level.

You can rent a jack similar in purpose to this;http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371491053956?item=371491053956&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true

Here are a couple more, which should also be available; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010VW4YZ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052PLE4E/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Sorry, I missed where the floor is obviously straight.
We do not know how well this building is holding together, which you pointed out.

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I do not remember ever saying the floor was straight, but that there should be a straight line of demarkation defining where the support has moved away.
 
Snoonyb said:
I do not remember ever saying the floor was straight, but that there should be a straight line of demarkation defining where the support has moved away.
Click to expand...

So, just put it back where it was. Ignore the fact the OP wants to change out all the rotted beams and that it might be just as easy to straighten the structure at the same time.
Ignore the fact that just jacking in one place could be just enough to have a complete failure of structure.
 
I feel I have a semi solid plan. Jack it up in sections, fix the tubes and replace the 6x6. Once its lowered and level I will reinforce the front and back garage doors and fix any roof issues. It seems to make sense to me but Im not to familiar with this kind of work. If this does make sense then what would be the first step in order to accomplish this?
 
nealtw said:
So, just put it back where it was. Ignore the fact the OP wants to change out all the rotted beams and that it might be just as easy to straighten the structure at the same time.
Ignore the fact that just jacking in one place could be just enough to have a complete failure of structure.
Click to expand...

After all of the discussion about bracing and supporting?
 
biddlecom said:
I feel I have a semi solid plan. Jack it up in sections, fix the tubes and replace the 6x6. Once its lowered and level I will reinforce the front and back garage doors and fix any roof issues. It seems to make sense to me but Im not to familiar with this kind of work. If this does make sense then what would be the first step in order to accomplish this?
Click to expand...

First you'll need to brace it, and against the house will be the easiest and most convenient.

And you'll need to decide weather or not you want to lift the door wall and the displaced wall at the same time, which I'm not an advocate of, determine what lengths of 6X6 pressure treated are available, you are willing to purchase, or railroad ties or on the off chance you can come across some creosote.
 
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