nealtw
Contractor retired
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACcDtyMwvyc[/ame]
Garage Tilting
- Thread starter biddlecom
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
The bottom is closer to the house. Its a 4 foot level and I put it in the middle.
nealtw
Contractor retired
So the wall top to bottom is out 2 1/4" or it is out 2 1/4" in four feet.
The latter would be 4 1/2 for an 8 ft wall there is a big difference.
So I took my 4' level and placed it in the middle, so it was 2' from the top and 2' from the bottom. Then I leveled it and it measured 2 1/4''from the top of the level.
After watching your video I know how to do the string line now. I will have to pick some up at the store tomorrow though. What do I do with it?
nealtw
Contractor retired
So we know both piers are out of whack, How do you feel about digging a trench all the way across from corner to corner 4 ft deep.:hide:
I'm willing to do what I need to do. What reason would I do this? I also want a solid plan before I start doing anything.
nealtw
Contractor retired
I want to see how straight the roof line is so it would be a nail on the front corner outside of wall and the back corner. match the height down from the top on both ends. Pull and tie the string from nail to nail.
So now you slide both ends out on the nails say 1 inch.
Now you can go along and measure that same distance from the string to the wall above each pier. Then check level or plumb for each of those spots.
Make a chart and give each pier a name that we can use thru the job.
As this is the right side start at the front corner, R1 and R2 and so on .
So R1 height from top or bottom or what ever looks like it should have been level. string is 1" out.
Plumb is ? out at the bottom .
I want that info for all spots over the piers just on the right side for now.
The way you used the level was not quit right but it will do for now. Let the string stop moving before you take a measurement.
So after thinking about it for a minute. It seems I will have to jack up the garage little by little and replace the 6x6s as I go. As Im going I can fix, replace, add any polls that I need to and then level the building out as I go? Is that how it would be done. Also once that part is done and the walls are level I can reinforce the front and back garage doors and reinforce level out the roof? Correct?
So the foundation are tubes and then the 6x6's on those tubes. I would think going around and replacing the rotten 6x6's and fixing, replacing, adding tubes would give me a solid foundation.
Before you embark upon this, establish some level lines, which basically require several stakes, a pencil and a water level.
The stakes should be placed in such a manner that they will not be easily displaced by the traffic generated in the repairs.
I'm presuming that the foundation rolled in part, because of insufficient diameter, or depth.
The stakes should be placed in such a manner that they will not be easily displaced by the traffic generated in the repairs.
I'm presuming that the foundation rolled in part, because of insufficient diameter, or depth.
Thats probably accurate. Im thinking when I dig up that pole that gave out I will know how long it is and see if its below the frost line (48'').
nealtw
Contractor retired
Both side kicked outwards, I see 2 reasons.
1 no support under the jack studs both sides of door,
2 they needed to be tied together.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Yes I am hoping that we can get some idea where it was or where it should be for at least straight.
I would like to get the side beams off the ground because they are subject to even the lightest frost. But every idea I have for that, I also come up with other problems that might be caused by that fix:rofl:
nealtw
Contractor retired
We also need distance between piers and distance to the back of the rafters in that front section.
Are the piers is the same location on both sides?
Are the piers is the same location on both sides?
As you work your way back along the outside wall, where you replace the foundation use the appropriate post anchors ton capture the 6X6 instead of having to lift over or move the structure out of the way.
http://www.strongtie.com/resources/literature/wood-construction-connectors-catalog
nealtw
Contractor retired
Print the the photo and measure from the corner over to the door.
He has checked it with a level the bottom has kicked out 2 1/4 inches.
This is no place for a quick fix.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Bud & Snoonyb
There is no point in suggesting fixes that don't solve the problem as it will just happen again.
The question first do we have enough foundation in the piers to just lift and fix.
We have had suggestion of just pulling it straight, removing the roof, and complete re and re.
None of this is rocket science but come on we have to have as many facts as possible.
The real fix would be to lift it set it on cribbing and put a foundation under it and set it down. That is what you would do if you were building new.
I am just trying to figure out if it is possible to do less than that and get a permanent fix.
I have the OPs head full of the information I need, please don't get ahead of the information stage.
There is no point in suggesting fixes that don't solve the problem as it will just happen again.
The question first do we have enough foundation in the piers to just lift and fix.
We have had suggestion of just pulling it straight, removing the roof, and complete re and re.
None of this is rocket science but come on we have to have as many facts as possible.
The real fix would be to lift it set it on cribbing and put a foundation under it and set it down. That is what you would do if you were building new.
I am just trying to figure out if it is possible to do less than that and get a permanent fix.
I have the OPs head full of the information I need, please don't get ahead of the information stage.
