Garage Tilting

[Snoonyb]

Off-load the roof.
Separate the wall to be lifted and plumbed from the door wall.
Brace the wall, raise and rest it on 4X4's, repair/replace your foundation, slide the wall over and reset it on the foundation, plumb and reattach the garage door wall.

 

[nealtw]

Okay the garage held up during the winter and now its time to figure out what to do next. I apologize for not sending picks, there was just not much to show.

So, the reason the garage is failing is because the front left sonotube has failed. That corner has gone out of place which has caused the garage to tilt and the roof to bow down. So I will be taking the truss/roof completely down and replacing it. I would like to jack the building up and fix the sonotubes that need it and maybe have a couple more if need be. First question is how do you jack the building up. Its about 14 feet wide and 32ish feet long. Second question is how would i realign the walls? Would i use come-alongs. Third question is should I realign with the roof on or take the roof off first and then realign? I would think it would be a lot easier with the roof off.

I believe your come-a-long question is where we started.

Are you open to suggestion from someone who has done this before or are you just looking for ideas that might or might not work to back up your plan?

 

[biddlecom]

I believe your come-a-long question is where we started.

Are you open to suggestion from someone who has done this before or are you just looking for ideas that might or might not work to back up your plan?

Preferably someone who has experience but am willing to take suggestion from everyone. I want to do this project in the most correct way, safest way and cheapest way possible. Also will note that I will do as much of it as possible by myself and recruit friends and family when necessary.

 

[nealtw]

Preferably someone who has experience but am willing to take suggestion from everyone. I want to do this project in the most correct way, safest way and cheapest way possible. Also will note that I will do as much of it as possible by myself and recruit friends and family when necessary.

Great but not a good plan, go back read the posts and pick some one that made suggestion that you feel will work and put him in charge of the job and let others make comments to him or correct his thinking.

If you work with more masters you will end up with some safety issues missed.
This not an impossible or particular tricky but it has to done with patience and understanding.:hide:

 

[Snoonyb]

Who led you to the conclusion that there were trusses used for the roof structure, because none of the photos show that, and there does not appear to be any photos of the underside, front section of the roof?

 

[nealtw]

Is there a beam over top of this door?
Need a photo of the rafters above this original garage.
The back of those rafters should be sitting on a beam about 18 ft from the front.
Pictures and measurement of those beams.
With a 6 ft level or level with straight edge check the left side of the garage in this photo.

 

[Snoonyb]

Is there a beam over top of this door?
Need a photo of the rafters above this original garage.
The back of those rafters should be sitting on a beam about 18 ft from the front.
Pictures and measurement of those beams.
With a 6 ft level or level with straight edge check the left side of the garage in this photo.

Msg.#6 has several of the hdr. above the door, but none of the other framing connection.

 

[nealtw]

Msg.#6 has several of the hdr. above the door, but none of the other framing connection.

Those rafters are side to side the front should be front to back

 

[Snoonyb]

Look beyond and you'll see an obvious cavity, which indicates that the rear of the front gable was framed after the length, and there will not be a beam, just a tie-in.

 

[biddlecom]

Here are some picks of the front garage door from the inside. Is that what you wanted?

 

[nealtw]

Here are some picks of the front garage door from the inside. Is that what you wanted?

Almost I want to see what the back end of those rafters are sitting on, there should be a beam there.

 

[Snoonyb]

There's no beam there, the valleys are created as a tie-in.

Lay on the floor with your feet pointing away from the door and take the photo looking strait up, panoramic.

Or from a ladder with your back toward the door.

 

[nealtw]

There's no beam there, the valleys are created as a tie-in.

Lay on the floor with your feet pointing away from the door and take the photo looking strait up, panoramic.

Or from a ladder with your back toward the door.

That is what I am afraid of, if it is sagging because all that weight is hanging on a 2x4, lifting the front corner may break something back there.

 

[biddlecom]

Does it matter? I am taking the roof/truss down and making new roof/truss.

 

[nealtw]

Sorry I missed that statement earlier. If you take the roof off, you then lay the walls down fix the foundation and stand the walls.
Besides the expense removing the roof is dangerous work and gets more dangerous as you go because the building gets less and less stable as you go.
The safest way would be to remove and replace as you go, but then you want your walls to be stable and in place first.
I think most or all of this roof is fixable and the walls may be easier to deal with with the roof structure still there.
It's a big ugly job either way.

If you want we can run thru the job for both.

 

[Snoonyb]

There is the difference, you do not have truss 1 in the roof structure.

Your desire to accomplish the repairs in the simplest, and "cheapest" manner, is another limiting factor.

The roof structure now is an 1930's framing example.

You do not need to completely remove the roof and structure, just the front portion including both valleys and correct the wall displacement.

 

[biddlecom]

I like both of your ideas about not replacing the roof. I figured it needed to be replaced because the back portion is about a 1 foot pitch (almost flat) and the back portion is bowing down. Now if I don't have to "replace" the roof but fix a few problems with the roof that would be amazing. That will make things cheaper and seems it would make it easier to jack up the garage and fix the walls and post.

 

[nealtw]

There is the difference, you do not have truss 1 in the roof structure.

Your desire to accomplish the repairs in the simplest, and "cheapest" manner, is another limiting factor.

The roof structure now is an 1930's framing example.

You do not need to completely remove the roof and structure, just the front portion including both valleys and correct the wall displacement.

Let's explore that, if you remove the roof, You have cross braces holding the walls where they are, now how do you jack up walls and straighten things with out removing the braces and if the walls have sagged they will be hard to get level.

 

[nealtw]

I like both of your ideas about not replacing the roof. I figured it needed to be replaced because the back portion is about a 1 foot pitch (almost flat) and the back portion is bowing down. Now if I don't have to "replace" the roof but fix a few problems with the roof that would be amazing. That will make things cheaper and seems it would make it easier to jack up the garage and fix the walls and post.

Even if I was going to change the roof structure, I would use the old structure first to fix everything else.

My plan would be to lift all of one side at a time so you could straighten the bottom of the wall fix any of the beams sitting on the concrete and set it back down.

I will admit that it is a rough plan and there is much to look at before we say " get her done."

 

[Snoonyb]

The only part necessary to be removed will be the front 8-10'.

The roof beyond that is holding the walls together, and because of the top-plate ties, only the already displaced bottom plate would be loose.

I wouldn't "X" brace, but brace to the floor at the first paired rafter.