Garage Tilting
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Help Support House Repair Talk:
Measurements Requested
Front Bottom 148" and Front Top 142"
Middle Bottom 144" and Middle Top 143"
Back Bottom 144" and Back Top 142"
Plum-Bob: Front 103" and Back 101"
I dont promise these measurements are 100% accurate.
Also in these photos you can see better how the building was constructed. It looks as thought they did some odd things to make some stronger bracing.
So, I was thinking about it last night and I would hate to tear this building down. The wood on it is solid and probably cost a lot as well. Tell me if this idea makes sense. What If I was to brace it this winter so it doesn't get worse and then once spring hits I can completely take the roof off and then fix the walls and some foundation work and then rebuild a brand new roof with a steeper pitch. Also I would cover that back garage door with a wall and do some interior reinforcing? That seems like a good step price wise and will probably make the garage last for the life of the home. Let me know your thoughts gentlemen.
Front Bottom 148" and Front Top 142"
Middle Bottom 144" and Middle Top 143"
Back Bottom 144" and Back Top 142"
Plum-Bob: Front 103" and Back 101"
I dont promise these measurements are 100% accurate.
Also in these photos you can see better how the building was constructed. It looks as thought they did some odd things to make some stronger bracing.
So, I was thinking about it last night and I would hate to tear this building down. The wood on it is solid and probably cost a lot as well. Tell me if this idea makes sense. What If I was to brace it this winter so it doesn't get worse and then once spring hits I can completely take the roof off and then fix the walls and some foundation work and then rebuild a brand new roof with a steeper pitch. Also I would cover that back garage door with a wall and do some interior reinforcing? That seems like a good step price wise and will probably make the garage last for the life of the home. Let me know your thoughts gentlemen.
Using a plum-bob from the top outside corner, to the ground, will result in a dimension registered in less than 12", which will indicate the amount that that corner has deflected out of plum.
Your plan to restructure the roof will bring the structure in line with your areas weather conditions.
Your plan to restructure the roof will bring the structure in line with your areas weather conditions.
I did do the plum bob (measurements above). You want me to do it on the outside rather than the inside?
If you would please.
The line suspending the plum-bob is held against the buinding at the top of the wall, The plum-bob suspends vertically to just above the ground. When the motion stops, lower it to the ground and measure the distance from the point where it touches the ground to the building, making any adjustments necessary to compensate indentations so that you are measuring to relatively the same building elements.
The line suspending the plum-bob is held against the buinding at the top of the wall, The plum-bob suspends vertically to just above the ground. When the motion stops, lower it to the ground and measure the distance from the point where it touches the ground to the building, making any adjustments necessary to compensate indentations so that you are measuring to relatively the same building elements.
I think I understand what your saying now. The issue is that wall is not tilting to the left toward the house because of my awning and the back corner isnt tilting because of the extension room. So when im place the string it stays semi flush with the wall. If im wrong I do apologize. Im not familiar with this stuff.
Ah-ha, that was my concern given the #2 of the original pictures which shows the two roofs intersecting.
I suspect that were you to use a strait 2x4 8' and a 6' level at the same corner, you would find that there is near 1/2" to 1" out, which would correspond with the deflection indicated at the lower left hand corner of the garage door in the #3 and #4 pictures.
To relieve the strain and possible damage to the awning roof from potential snow loads, I would screw a 2x cleat to both the dwelling and the garage, corresponding with the top plate of the garage wall and install a brace 1/2" or so longer than the distance between them, until you can accomplish the repair permanently.
Be sure and caulk the top of the dwelling cleat, to prevent water intrusion.
nealtw
Contractor retired
When some one added the back half they removed the back wall of the original and that was likely what started the problem.
I like the idea of a steeper roof but in reality the cost of building new walls would be the least of the expence. So if you plan on replacing the roof I would just knock it down and start over.
I understand that a large expence for new garage may not fit with the older house and may not add any value to the property so that is a big consideration.
I think an effort should be made to save the structure, which would be cheap for materials but labour extensive and still might not do the job, there are no garrentees.
I had much the same thought as Snoonyb for bracing against the house, but then we don't know what the loads are or could be and we would hate to do dammage to the house if it couldn't take any more side loading.
As the repairs would be time consuming , I agree it should be left for spring.
Before I suggest stableizing for the winter which might envolve some loss of use, what do you use it for ? I see the bike and alot of storage, do you open those doors in the winter?
I like the idea of a steeper roof but in reality the cost of building new walls would be the least of the expence. So if you plan on replacing the roof I would just knock it down and start over.
I understand that a large expence for new garage may not fit with the older house and may not add any value to the property so that is a big consideration.
I think an effort should be made to save the structure, which would be cheap for materials but labour extensive and still might not do the job, there are no garrentees.
I had much the same thought as Snoonyb for bracing against the house, but then we don't know what the loads are or could be and we would hate to do dammage to the house if it couldn't take any more side loading.
As the repairs would be time consuming , I agree it should be left for spring.
Before I suggest stableizing for the winter which might envolve some loss of use, what do you use it for ? I see the bike and alot of storage, do you open those doors in the winter?
The OP needs to pay a visit to the local building authority to determine his alternatives.
Many municipalities have restrictions regarding repairing structures, which demand that a portion of the existing building remain, thereby justifying the "repair", just the foundation alone is not considered sufficient justification.
When the structure has been removed, they can demand the compliance with the current zoning ordinance.
As previously discussed, a visit to the building authority will clear that up.
Many municipalities have restrictions regarding repairing structures, which demand that a portion of the existing building remain, thereby justifying the "repair", just the foundation alone is not considered sufficient justification.
When the structure has been removed, they can demand the compliance with the current zoning ordinance.
As previously discussed, a visit to the building authority will clear that up.
The garage is used for storage of our 2 vehicles and 1 bike. I can live without my vehicle in there over winter but my wife can not. Also as for building codes I remember looking into it a few years ago and if I tear and rebuild it wouldn't even be worth it because I would have to push over to far. As of right now im only a foot away from my neighbors line. I dont mind investing my time into this and know someone who is very good with this stuff. I also dont mind putting a few thousand into it. Im just trying to figure out the best route to go once spring hits.
Keep in mind the municipalities have the legal right to, and often do, amend building and zoning ordinances twice a year, and as you've discovered repair will fit your needs.
Were I you, this would be my course of action.
Beside separating the garage from the awning roof and you reduce the pressure on the dwelling by lengthening the cleat on the dwelling to 4 or 6 so you are spreading the load.
The door in pictures 3 &4 does not appear usable , so Im assuming you have another vehicle access and wont address that now.
On the right side of the garage where the foundation is beginning to roll, drive 5, 36 steel stakes 24 into the ground, 4oc., 1-1/2 away from the garage wall, place 1 or 2 2x6s too arrest further deflection from snow load. the 2x6s can be used for rafters when you restructure the roof.
In the spring one of the first thing is to remove the roofing and roof structure which will make the walls easier to deal with. You can save as much of the sheating as you can for reuse, keeping in mind the nominal thickness of the old and new.
nealtw
Contractor retired
So you have every reason to save this structure and unless you are expecting winter next week, let's get to work.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Supplies needed;
!2 -14 ft 2x4s
5 sheets of 1/2" plywood or 7/16 OSB whichever is cheaper
5 lbs 3" common nails, with heads
5 lbs 3" double head nails
ten pounds 2 1/2 inch screws with a few driver bits that fit the screws
skill saw
A drill that will drive screws
A heavier than normal hammer, 22 ounce framming hammer
2 or 4 ft level
string level
chaulk line
One very straight 8 ft 2x4
!2 -14 ft 2x4s
5 sheets of 1/2" plywood or 7/16 OSB whichever is cheaper
5 lbs 3" common nails, with heads
5 lbs 3" double head nails
ten pounds 2 1/2 inch screws with a few driver bits that fit the screws
skill saw
A drill that will drive screws
A heavier than normal hammer, 22 ounce framming hammer
2 or 4 ft level
string level
chaulk line
One very straight 8 ft 2x4
I can get all of that. What would be the plan once I acquire all the material?
nealtw
Contractor retired
The spring brace that I touched on earlier, I will lay out more detail, I'm on my way out soon. so later.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Do trhe garage doors have those dangerous springs or just manual lift?
Asked and answered.
I don’t know what Neal’s plan is but if you are going shopping, there are screws and then there are screws. IMHO anything that can be nailed together can be screwed together and when it comes time to take it apart screws work a lot better. The type of screws you want are the type sold for building decks the good ones have a square or a star to drive the screw. The type I like are called guard dogs and they look like a Philips head but are not. They drive off both a square and a star at the same time with a special bit. Driving these good size screws takes a good quality drill motor. With screws you don’t need the double headed nails because you won’t need to buy a 4’ crowbar come spring. I would suggest 3” and 4” deck screws.
They have those 3 footish springs
