Need Guidance About Having Panel Replaced/Upgraded

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Actually the comment regarding the loosening of the plaster, is a caution in that the 2 coats of gypsum plaster can, under duress, separate from the button b card lath and the method discovering that, when it is not obvious, is by pressing on an area too see if it can be detected. Additionally, a tectonic occurrence, although minor, can cause any unapparent loosened areas, to appear.
 
MattinCA,
It sounds like you really did a great job learning the project and getting quotes! I'll bet you will be happy with the project for years to come.
Paul

The elec. contractor will notify SCE when they need the service disconnected and SCE will disconnect

Such A Nice Luxury! Especially on a sleety winter day.

In Detroit Edison (aka DTE Energy) territory, the contracted electrician unhooks and re-hooks the drop, underground service lateral or unbolts the CTs while energized.

We pay for and install the meter can, too. What a racket! We also do the move unless it needs extending. Then we pay HUGE for the extension. (My House 22 years ago they wanted $1,250.00 for a 3 foot jumper to extend #4 al/triplex. Needless to say, I gave it a Midnight Extension.)


On a some commercial service change jobs in Ontario, Ontario Hydro supplied parts and connected all the way to the first disconnecting means for less money than I'd pay for parts.
 
There is no more stud for adhesion to be lost from; are you suggesting that adhesion between the buttonboard and the studs on either side of the bay might be compromised? There is no damage apparent on wall inside.

I am not going to do any patching til the stucco is in because that may involve more banging on the outside to remove enough stucco round the perimeter to attach new paper and mesh.

BTW, the black oval on the"after" pic shows the lowest hole visible from the inside.
Is it possible to cut back to the center of the stud on the left and put a new wall piece from stud-to-stud?
Or is the one on the left close enough to the edge so you can use construction adhesive & a few screws to attach a new 2 x 4 (or 2 x 3)?
Just some thoughts that might help.

Snoonyb mentioned fast setting drywall compound. If you've never used it before, you will love working with it. It comes in 5, 15, 30 45, & 60 minute working time. Start with longer setting time until you're used to it. Hot water can be used in, for example, 30 minute mud to make it 5 minute mud.
 
Tectonic occurrence? We don't have those in California lol! I will probe the plaster and consider putting one big piece of drywall instead of patching the holes.
You betch-um tonto! 45yrs, LB, LKWD, WC.
You can, just be careful, when cutting, next to and behind the new service encl., and opposed to cutting in the middle of the studs, cut beside them and add the backing.

You may find that the plasters thickenes isn't uniform so use a straightedge and select which, likely 5/8" will cause you the least amount of time, and in this case, I wouldn't use hot mud, I use regular joint compound and topping, because it's easier to screed, for uniformity of the finish.
 
Gotta call Sparky back out. One of the circuits has spontaneously shut off for a second or two then come back on a few times. It's a 20a circuit servicing the bedroom and bath receptacles, plus 2 living room receptacles, 1 kitchen receptacle, and the dishwasher. All the receptacles were affected.
 
Interesting, sounds like a loose connection.

Were it I, I would add an additional circuit to separate the kitchen recep. & appliance, away from the other convenience recep., because of use.
 
Sparkys correct me if I’m wrong but, besides at least one of those needing a dedicated circuit, there should be an arch-fault/GFCI breaker used which would, most certainly, have tripped, with what you described?!
 
Sparkys correct me if I’m wrong but, besides at least one of those needing a dedicated circuit, there should be an arch-fault/GFCI breaker used which would, most certainly, have tripped, with what you described?!
From post #26; "One of the circuits has spontaneously shut off for a second or two then come back on a few times."

Arc/fault breakers do not automatically reset.
 
@Snoonyb, my point exactly! (if work was done on that circuit, an arch/fault/GFCI should have been installed, no??)
Actually no, because neither arc/fault breakers or GFCI recep. fail & reset spontaneously.
 
Actually no, because neither arc/fault breakers or GFCI recep. fail & reset spontaneously.

Not saying they do - I was saying if that circuit was worked on, a GFCI/arch fault breaker should have been installed. (if it had, you are correct, it would have tripped and not reset)

More to my point is that arch-fault breakers protect against this exact scenario.
 
Not saying they do - I was saying if that circuit was worked on, a GFCI/arch fault breaker should have been installed. (if it had, you are correct, it would have tripped and not reset)

More to my point is that arch-fault breakers protect against this exact scenario.
I disagree, because the intermittent fail and reengaging is symptomatic of a loose connection, inside a wirenut.
 
Wait, now you're confusing me!? If there is a loose connection in a wire nut or at a terminal wouldn't that cause an arch?
Not necessity, because if there is no load, just a failure, there is no arc.
 
Interesting, sounds like a loose connection.

Were it I, I would add an additional circuit to separate the kitchen recep. & appliance, away from the other convenience recep., because of use.
1) Loose connection where, if every other circuit is affected? The electrician feels pretty sure it is on Edison's side.

2) I misspoke on the circuits. 2 (20a) services the bedroom and bath outlets , two LR outlets, 1 DR outlet, and one garage outlet; 4 (15a) services one bathroom fan; 6 (20a) services the dishwasher and gas oven; and 8 (15a) services nothing I can find.
 
Time to lite up the BBQ, lot of folks traipsing thru.

#8 may you attic spare.
 
AWW, the days & night of the Farris wheel on the PIKE, & brew 102. Before your time.
 
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