Side porch repair

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I did not mean taking down the entire structure, I was referring to my prior post, about a carpenter repairing with the wrong size 2 by ? and having to possibly take it down and redo.
Thank You for explaining the correct way this room should have been converted to.
I believe u just pointed iut to me what had gone wrong.
In 1904 this house was built.
Either at that time or some time later, the a wrap around porch was built.
A knee wall construction, with the lower ground level was wider than the top of the knee wall where a 2 by 12 was put with wooden pillars to carry the load of the roof.
I do not know if they used a canterlever?
Or just attached to the house with a ledger.
All was good, until, someone had the bright idea to build a sun porch, by " enclosing" the side porch.
They just used the 2 by 12 as a sill for the windows to sit, and three 2 by 4's inbetween each window, only going down to the same 2 by 12".
Then they did not properly support to transfer the loads.
Water damaged was at the center of the dip in the 22' long wall.
The room is 8 by 22' roughly.
They used different sized 2 by ? for joists and beams under the floor.
Same thing was done in the attic, all different size rafters for the ceiling.
Looks like they used whatever they had.
Now, I would love to do it right, but , I am no framer, give me a table leg and I will make one by eye on my lathe, but please don't ask me to frame, unless u get me to drink, cause I don't drink.
ome

image.jpg
 
1904 would explain some things, likely has been replaced but the same type of framing was used.
So part of that wall sits on the ground or close to it? So the inner part sits on the floor and outer part extends further down past the floor?
 
We are in freeport, NY
I think it is 42" , IIRC.
Yes, almost like a woman's skirt. Victorian style, so the angle is seen even in the wall with the 2 by 4's. If the inside width is 8', then the outside bottom of the wall is 9' wide, flaring out an extra foot or so over a
There us still the original wall, outer wall was cedar shakes over one by threes, then asphalt shingles, then we came along and sided it, could not afford to restore. The outer wall is 53" from outer showing 2 by 12 to ground. The inside wall is about 2' high from floor to window sill or 2 by 12.
So that being said, the outer wall is resting on the ground by means if the aluminum bottom cap.
The inner wall sits on the finished floor.
They used a cheap 1/4" wainscoting. I used 3/4" wainscoting when finishing the third floor ir walk up attic.
 
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So the window sill is flat from the inside out under the window all the way to the ouster wall? That would be the water bottom?
 
nealtw said:
So the window sill is flat from the inside out under the window all the way to the ouster wall? That would be the water bottom?
Click to expand...

Yes, but what do u mean by the "water bottom"?
 
Yes, the windows were never put in correct, missing the pitch of a sill for a window to let the water run out and not stand.
We tried to create a pitch, and went over with aluminum and lots of silicone caulking. It finally worked , after caulking literally it all.
No leaks at all. Roof is not an issue, atleast as far as leaks.
Thanks
ome
Is this what u do for a living, consultations, or are you also a builder?
 
Among many other things I retired last year from framing houses.
When you are framing houses, every other trade has something to say about what they need to make their job easier or better so you end up with a good understanding of all aspects of the job.
 
It is not hard to see this outside wall should be re built from the foundation up but, that will depend on you, I doubt you want to do that, so mostly I am looking for ways to straighten it up and make it water tight.
 
Sounds good. Thank God I met someone who knows their trade well.
I remember using .225 " diameter sinkers when helping my dad build an eactension to our house when we were kids.
Maybe 50 years ago.
Now I use .131 mostly , or .148 out of my newer framing gun. These tools are finally going to see some work.
I assume we do not need to fabricate a flinch plate?
Is there anyplace I can use my skills ll as a stick welder?
We can do some simple fabrication.
Thanks
ome
 
ome said:
Sounds good. Thank God I met someone who knows their trade well.
I remember using .225 " diameter sinkers when helping my dad build an eactension to our house when we were kids.
Maybe 50 years ago.
Now I use .131 mostly , or .148 out of my newer framing gun. These tools are finally going to see some work.
I assume we do not need to fabricate a flinch plate?
Is there anyplace I can use my skills ll as a stick welder?
We can do some simple fabrication.
Thanks
ome
Click to expand...
The only time we use steel is when some engineer calls for it but you never know.
Is any of the framing above the windows open so we can see what was constructed up there?
 
nealtw said:
The only time we use steel is when some engineer calls for it but you never know.
Is any of the framing above the windows open so we can see what was constructed up there?
Click to expand...
There is a one by running above all the windows, and only one piece of molding came off, in this area.
Does not show much, but if u want to see a close up, no problem.
Here is the pic with out a close up.
Kind of dark, and I don't know why the pics come out sideways.

ome#23.jpg
 
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I see something like a 2x4 on the flat and the white piece above that should be a beam or header to hold the weight of the roof off the window. So that board should be hiding something behind it like 2 2x6s on edge.
 
nealtw said:
I see something like a 2x4 on the flat and the white piece above that should be a beam or header to hold the weight of the roof off the window. So that board should be hiding something behind it like 2 2x6s on edge.
Click to expand...

Should I try and get that board out, to see what is going on ?
 
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ome said:
Should I try and get that board out, to see what is going on ?
Click to expand...

So if the three 2x4s between the windows are 2x4s there could be a double something above that would be 3" and then that piece would be a 1/2" filler but if those uprights are actually 2x3 then that piece piece might be a full 1" and would be structural.
 
nealtw said:
So if the three 2x4s between the windows are 2x4s there could be a double something above that would be 3" and then that piece would be a 1/2" filler but if those uprights are actually 2x3 then that piece piece might be a full 1" and would be structural.
Click to expand...


Did u get my pm's?
 
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