Damaged 220/50a wire

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kelemvor

kelemvor

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I was drilling a hole to mount a replacement over the range microwave. I struck the 220v line running to my range. There was a spark, but the breaker (50a) did not trip. I cut a large hole in the drywall to survey the damage and clearly struck the cable dead center.

Can I cover the sheath with electrical tape? If I slice open the sheath and cover the individual wires is that safe? Must I replace the whole line from the attic? I'm used to dealing with 110/20a, and am feeling a little out of my element.

The circuit still functions, at least to run the range clock. I didn't fire up anything that would put much of a load on the circuit. Currently the range is unplugged and I switched the breaker off.



 
Thanks.

I hope I can salvage the wiring. Home depot wants about $200 for just 125' of 6/3 with ground!
 
Think there are rules on what can be done depending on the amount of damage. But I think you could do a junction box in the attic or in the wall with access in the cupboard above the microwave. 6 or 12 ft sound better than 125 ft
 
I personally would not just tape a #6 wire. Leave the breaker off and as said above, tie new wires in a junction box above the kitchen. At least this is what I would do. Stand by for better experts to chime in.
 
They do make splice kits that are legal to be buried in the wall, but for 6 AWG it may be a little expensive. I've already legally spliced 12 and 14 AWG, those kits are fairly inexpensive and can even be picked up at a major hardware store. I believe the brand is Tyco. I don't believe, however, if Tyco makes a splice kit rated for 6 wire. Other types I've seen that are rated for 6 wire run between $30-$50 a piece, so you'd be talking about a bit of money to splice all the individual conductors in the 6/3. Your best bet I think, without replacing the entire run, would be to put a junction box in an accessible area, buy a cut piece of 6/3 at a major hardware store or electrical supply house, and replace the entire drop to your range. If you have an accessible area close to the range, that would be a less expensive alternative. You could also buy a 2 gang plastic new work box, nail it at the stud where the damaged wire is, junction into that with gray wire nuts and put a 2 gang blank plate on it. If you don't mind the look of an exposed junction then that is by far the cheapest alternative.
 
I'm putting a box with a terminal block in the cabinet at the ceiling line and replacing about 6' of the #6.

Thanks, guys.
 
Just curious do you have a link to the box with terminal strip in it you are using. I could have used something like that a few times lately on heavy home wiring.
 
Oh ok thanks. I was thinking you found a box with the strip built in. I always wished someone made such a box for a lot of reasons. Looks good and be careful drilling next time haha you have the same luck I have when it comes to picking a spot to drill. I normally hit a coper pipe.
 
You could use blue wirenuts ( or maybe grey ) in a j-box . Or Polaris taps .

God bless
Wyr
 
That is why wires inside walls should be inside emt conduits. If I was you I would take this as a warning and put the new romex inside a conduit inside the wall. With all the current rushing through a 220V 30amps or 50amps circuit if you had been part of the circuit it could have stopped or severely disrupt your heart and thus be lethal
 
tk3000 said:
That is why wires inside walls should be inside emt conduits. If I was you I would take this as a warning and put the new romex inside a conduit inside the wall. With all the current rushing through a 220V 30amps or 50amps circuit if you had been part of the circuit it could have stopped or severely disrupt your heart and thus be lethal
Click to expand...

120 V can be just as deadly. Running Romex thru a conduit for protection is not that easy and is very difficult in this situation where he has a finished wall. If it was an exposed run and he wanted to protect the Romex in a garage or workshop I could see it, as I understand code allows it for protection if the end is open past the area being protected.

I would feel it to be overkill in this application as it would be in most walls just to protect from someone drilling a hole thru a cable.
 
I've never had any issues using the wire nuts. They're affordable and very effective. If spliced correctly, it's going to be tight, and will stay tight. In areas where vibrations might be present, like a peckerhead, I wrap the wire nuts with electrical tape, so if that wire nut were to ever come loose, those conductors will not slip out and become exposed. A split bolt or polaris tap, in my opinion, is complete overkill in this application, but if that's what a homeowner wants for added peace of mind, then so be it.
 
All our motor connections in heavier wire sizes we use ring terminals and then stack them, thru bolt and nut them and tape them up. I don’t know what code says about that in residential wiring but I have never seen a splice done that way fail. It’s also cheap and fast and uses parts you don’t have to run out and get.
 
As long as you use machine bolts and a rated insulating tape on them, and use it fairly generously (then wrap them with electrical tape), I don't think there's a problem doing it that way. It probably wouldn't be UL approved though.
 
Kabris said:
I've never had any issues using the wire nuts. They're affordable and very effective. If spliced correctly, it's going to be tight, and will stay tight. In areas where vibrations might be present, like a peckerhead, I wrap the wire nuts with electrical tape, so if that wire nut were to ever come loose, those conductors will not slip out and become exposed. A split bolt or polaris tap, in my opinion, is complete overkill in this application, but if that's what a homeowner wants for added peace of mind, then so be it.
Click to expand...

Yep .

Ring crimps and machine screw is fine for motors . Especially if they come from the factory with the ring crimps .

God bless
Wyr
 
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