Then you need to adjust the fence for each cut and the pieces will not be the same size. The thin pieces between the fence and the blade is the proper way to get a bunch of wood all the same thickness.It also would have been safer to have set the guide up so that narrow piece was to the left of the blade, not between the guide and the blade.
Doing it the way you did that narrow piece tends to bind and want to kick back,
Then you need to adjust the fence for each cut and the pieces will not be the same size. The thin pieces between the fence and the blade is the proper way to get a bunch of wood all the same thickness.
The blade should only be high enough to cut through the wood and a push stick used.
I removed the safety guards because they got in the way.The safer way to cut that would would be to use all the proper saw safety guards. I thought the riving knife behind the blade was universal, and does not hinder the use of the saw. The anti-kickback pawls are good to have too. An overhead frame minimizes the chance of launching wood. And plastic blade guard minimizes chance of your hand hitting the blade. How come your saw has none of these ? Lots of good videos on YouTube on table saw safety.
I removed the safety guards because they got in the way.
Do you think glueing a piece of sandpaper on the bottom would help grip better?
Cutting to left of blade is best for safety and fine for a single cut but if multiple identical pieces needed, resetting the fence precisely for each cut is challenging.
Does the sled hold the wood?I made a sled for my old table saw but have not for this one yet.
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