Home voltage fluctuations/breakers tripping

I just started having some random electrical issues in a home I have lived in for 4 years.

Some details:
Lived in home for 4 years, no electrical issues until this point. Home built in 1991. All outlets and switches replaced in year 1 as they were original and the dated off-white color. All light bulbs replaced with LED's around year 2.

Last week, in the middle of night noticed WiFi was out. Checked modem and router, entire room power was out. Also noticed certain items outside of that room were out but did seem to be isolated to only 3 rooms. Checked electrical panel, 3 breakers were tripped (square d qo visi-trip; breaker not off but red flag). Reset breakers, everything working fine.

I then started noticing lights flickering in these same rooms (same rooms where breakers had tripped.). Breakers have not tripped since that first time though. Seemed to happen more when microwave is on though does happen with micro off and even unplugged. I thought ok, must be an issue with the microwave or possibly just that line as it has its own breaker (yes this was one of the ones that was tripped originally.)

Checked voltage at panel out to various circuits and it is pretty consistent 119vac. Checked voltage out of the outlet where the micro is and it varies. With the micro on, it varies from 103-130vac. When the voltage is high is when things start to flicker and I can hear the microwave change sound. I then went around the house and checked several outlets in other rooms. Noticed that with the microwave off, voltage is fairly stable around 119vac. With the microwave running, when the lights would flicker, most of the outlets are around 135+vac. Seems odd to me as I would expect the voltage to be low causing the flicker.

I am not an expert, but also not afraid to get in and check things. What sort of things can I look into? Tracking this down may be tough.

I suspect that you have a bad Neutral connection in your service Equipment, Meter enclosure, or service entry conductor splices. The neutral conductor carries the difference in current flowing on the 2 energized conductors. If it develops a bad connection then the Energized Circuit Conductor which is more heavily loaded has a voltage sag and the one that has the lower load goes hi. When the more lightly loaded service conductor goes high it will cause some of the circuits which are connected between that higher volt and the now open neutral will draw excessive current and trip the individual breakers. Correcting this may well require insulated tools and insulated gloves and shoe covers.

If during the flickering condition you measure low voltage on some outlets and high on others you may be able to convince your electric utility to send a trouble truck. They will then apply the correct tools, techniques and protective equipment if needed to find and clear the high resistance connection which is causing the imbalance. Many utilities will not send a trouble truck until the condition has been confirmed by an electrician. That shifts the cost of the initial trouble shooting from the utility to you.

Warning! In many panels the energized conductors of the service entry are a mere inch away from the Neutral Conductor. One slip or mistake and you will be subjected to an arc flash which will burn any exposed skin instantly, melt synthetic clothing onto your skin, and cause a sonic blast that will throw you around violently. In most cases the only way to actually de-energize the Service Equipment Enclosure is to pull the meter. In some meter enclosures that is a very dangerous thing to do because there is the same danger of Arc Flash exposure. If you are not completely comfortable working in an energized panel's cabinet then call in an qualified electrician.

The only one of the neutral connections which you can safely check is the Neutral Conductor terrmination in the Service Equipment panel. That can only be done with the main breaker OFF. That means that all power to the house would be disconnected. If you have a head lamp or a battery light that can be positioned and aimed at the work you will need it. With the main breaker open check the neutral conductor of the Service Entry Conductors from the meter with a non contact voltage detector. If voltage is detected then only a person wearing the appropriate protective clothing should do anything more. If the neutral does not trigger the non contact voltage detector you can proceed to using a Wiggington solenoid voltage tester "Wiggy" to test the neutral for voltage. If it is actually de-energized you could remove the neutral conductor end from it's lug and inspect it and the lug. Using a wire brush clean any oxidation from the conductor until it is somewhat shiny. You can also draw the set screw of the pressure connector (Lug) all the way out and inspect it for any arcing or corrosion. You then apply an aluminum compatible anti oxidation paste such as Ideal NOALOX, Gardner Bender OX_GARD or equivalent. You can then re-terminate the conductor and tighten the set screw to the prescribed torque. You will need to borrow or rent a torque wrench. Over tightening could strip the set screw. Under tightening would cause the connection tor loosen over time and resume arcing.

As you can see you should only undertake this work if you are really confident that you can do the work safely.

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Tom Horne

The symptoms you are describe of the voltage going up indicate a loose neutral probably on the main feed to your house.

Thanks. I recently learned I know an electrician. Spoke to him briefly and a loose neutral was the first thing he thought. I have a few things to check out now at the panel. I am really hoping that is it and that I don't have to go through each outlet/switch individually.

Do not put this off. Get it looked at ASAP. I would start by calling the POCO now.
A loose neutral causing voltage rise can blow out your electronics.

I took the panel cover off again just to inspect things visually. Picture attached. Probably hard to see, but does anything stand out?

Can't see clearly but it looks like there might be multiple neutrals under one screw on the upper right side. Only one neutral per screw is permitted.

JoeD said:

Can't see clearly but it looks like there might be multiple neutrals under one screw on the upper right side. Only one neutral per screw is permitted.

Click to expand...

Not on the right side. There are 2 banks there, an upper and a lower. Only one neutral per screw there. The bottom one is making contact with both banks though. Not sure that would make a difference.

On the left side though, the second neutral from the top is multiple conductors in one screw. However, they are all from a single neutral wire. Is that normal?

JoeD said:

Do not put this off. Get it looked at ASAP. I would start by calling the POCO now.
A loose neutral causing voltage rise can blow out your electronics.

Click to expand...

Absolutely & normally the utility will not charge you .

Do it today .

Not a bad idea to install a whole house surge suppressor and also inspect the grounding system .

Wyr
God bless

Call the utility as others have suggested. The condition that you have can cause a great deal of damage.

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Tom Horne

Thank you for all of the great suggestions. My power company has been called and they said someone would be out in the next few days to check things outside. After that, I will see what they say and decide where I go next.

Hopefully it will be on their side and they can fix it at no cost to you .

Wyr
God bless

Surprisingly they came out the same day. I wasn't home when they came out but I did come home to a tag on my door saying they found an issue with their equipment and this thing attached to my meter. There is a tag on the back of this that says "bad neutral." This is a temp fix; they are supposed to come back within 14 days for the real fix.

Good news for you . You will not be out any cost .

Wyr
God bless